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Definition
| created by air moving across the ocean surface |
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| created by the movement of different air masses |
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| created by movement of water due to different densities |
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| a wave phenomenon when particle vibration is parallel to the direction of energy propagation |
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| a wave in which particle motion is at right angles to energy propagation |
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| a wave in which energy is moved along the interface between fluids of different densities, moves in orbital paths |
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Definition
| the motion of water particles caused by a wave as its transmitted through water |
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| an ocean wave traveling in water that has a depth greater than 1/2 the average wavelength, speed is independent of water depth |
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| a wave on the surface having a wave length of at least 20x the water depth, bottom affects the orbit of water particles and speed determined by water depth |
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| a wave whose wave length is less than 1.74cm |
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| a wave whose dominant restoring force is gravity |
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| a free wave by which energy put into waves by wind in the sea is transported with little energy loss across large stretches of ocean until it reaches a surf zone |
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| wind speed, wind duration, fetch |
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| distance which wind blows in one direction |
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| the separation of waves as they leave the sea by wave size |
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| the distance over which waves change from a "choppy" sea to uniform swell |
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| type of wave that forms on a gentle sloping beach |
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Definition
| curling breakers that form on moderately sloped beaches |
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Definition
| a compressed breaking wave that builds over a short distance and surges forward as it breaks |
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