ALOPECIA AREATA

ALOPECIA TOTALIS

ALOPECIA UNIVERSALIS

UNIVERSALIS

Alopecia areata (al-oh-PEE-shah air-ee-AH-tah) is an autoimmune disorder that causes the affected hair follicles to be mistakenly attacked by a person’s own immune system. White blood cells stop the hair growth during the anagen phase. It is a highly unpredictable skin disease that affects an estimated 5 million people in the United States alone. This hair disorder usually begins with one or more small, round, smooth bald patches on the scalp and can progress to total scalp hair loss, known as alopecia totalis (al-oh-PEE-shah toh-TAHL-us), or complete body hair loss, called alopecia universalis (al-oh-PEE-shah yoo-nih-vur-SAA-lis). Alopecia areata occurs in males and females of all ages, races, and  ethnic backgrounds and most often begins in childhood. The scalp usually shows no obvious signs of inflammation, skin disorder, or disease 

AMMONIUM THIOGLYCOLATE 

Thioglycolic acid (thy-oh-GLy-kuh-lik), a colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odor, is the most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions. The strength of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by the concentration of thio Stronger perms have a higher concentration of thio, which means that more disulfide bonds are broken compared to weaker perms. Because acids do not swell the hair nor penetrate into the cortex, it is necessary for manufacturers to add an alkalizing agent. The addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid produces a new chemical called ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) (uh-MOH-nee-um thy-oh-GLy-kuh-layt), which is alkaline and is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents.

Abnormal hair loss is called alopecia (al-oh-PEE-shah). The three most common types of abnormal hair loss are androgenic alopecia, alopecia areata, and postpartum alopecia.

Anatomy (ah-NAT-ah-mee) is the study of the human body structures that can be seen with the naked eye and how the body parts are organized; it is the science of the structure of organisms or of their parts.

Anatomy is the scientific study of the structure of living things including their systems, organs, and tissues. It includes the appearance and position of the various parts, the materials from which they are composed, their locations and their relationships with other parts. Anatomy is quite distinct from physiology and biochemistry which deals with the functions of those parts. For example, an anatomist is concerned with the shape, size, position, structure, blood supply and enervation of an organ such as the liver while a physiologist will be interested in the production of bile and the role of the liver in nutrition and regulating body functions

ANDROGENIC ALOPECIA

Androgenic alopecia (an-druh-JEN-ik al-oh-PEE-shah), also known as androgenetic alopecia(an-druh-je-NETik al-oh-PEE-shah), is hair loss that is characterized by miniaturization of terminal hair that is converted into vellus hair. It is usually  the result of genetics, age, or hormonal changes that cause terminal hair to miniaturize Androgenic alopecia can begin as early as the teens and is frequently seen by the age of 40. By age 35, almost 40 percent of both men and women show some degree of hair loss.

an·dro·gen (ndr-jn) n. A steroid hormone, such as testosterone or androsterone, that controls the development and maintenance of masculine characteristics. Also called androgenic hormone

an·dro·gen (ndr-jn) n. A steroid hormone, such as testosterone or androsterone, that controls the development and maintenance of masculine characteristics. Also called androgenic hormone

Aseptic

Tools that are cleaned, disinfected, and stored in a sanitary manner 

Asymptomatic

means that they show no symptoms or signs of infection. Bloodborne pathogens are more difficult to kill than germs that live outside the body.

BLACKHEADS

An open comedo, also known as a blackhead, is a hair follicle filled with keratin and sebum. Comedones appear most frequently on the face, especially in the T-zone, the center of the face . When the sebum of the comedo is exposed to the environment, it oxidizes and turns black. When the follicle is closed and not exposed to the environment, the sebum remains a white or cream color and is a closed comedo, also known as whitehead, and appears as a small bump just under the skin surface

(broh-mih-DROH-sis) is foul-smelling perspiration, usually noticeable in the armpits or on the feet, that is caused by bacteria. Severe cases require medical referral.

Body systems, 

also known as systems, are groups of body organs acting together to perform one or more functions, Eleven Main Body Systems and Their Functions, list some of the most important organs of  the body and the main body systems and their functions.

DIGESTIVE-Breaks down foods into nutrients and wastes; consists of mouth, stomach, intestines, salivary and gastric glands, and other organs.

ENDOCRINE-Affects the growth, development, sexual functions, and health of the entire body; consists of specialized glands.

EXCRETORY-Purifies the body by eliminating waste matter; consists of kidneys, liver, skin, large intestine, and lungs.

INTEGUMENTARY-Serves as a protective covering and helps regulate the body’s temperature; consists of skin and its accessory organs, such as oil and sweat glands, sensory receptors, hair, and nails.

LYMPHATIC/IMMUNE-Serves as a protective covering and helps regulate the body’s temperature; consists 

of skin and its accessory organs, such as oil and sweat glands, sensory receptors, hair, and nails.

MUSCULAR-Covers, shapes, and holds the skeletal system in place; the muscular system contracts and moves various parts of the body.

NERVOUS-Controls and coordinates all other systems of the body and makes them work harmoniously and efficiently; composed of the brain, spinal cord, and nerves.

REPRODUCTIVE-Produces offspring and passes on the genetic code from one generation to another.

RESPIRATORY-Enables breathing, supplying the body with oxygen, and eliminating carbon dioxide as a waste product; consists of the lungs and air passages.

SKELETAL-Forms the physical foundation of the body; composed of 206 bones that vary in size and shape and are connected by movable and immovable joints.

CAP WIG

Cap wigs are constructed with an elasticized, mesh-fiber base to which the hair is attached. They are made in several sizes and require special fittings. More often than not, cap wigs are hand-knotted. The front edge of a cap wig is made of a material that resembles the client’s scalp, along with a lace extension and a wire support that is used at the temples for a snug, secure fit. Hair is hand-tied under the net (under-knotted) to conceal the cap edge. The side and back edges contain wire supports, elastic, and hooks for a secure fit. Latex molded cap wigs are also available; these are prostheses for clients with special needs.

CONVERTER 

Converters usually have a plug and a cord. They allow you to use appliances outside of the salon or your home that normally would have to be plugged into an electric wall outlet. The mobile phone charger in a car is an example of a converter

A rectifier (REK-ti-fy-ur) is an apparatus that changes alternating current (AC) to direct current (DC). Cordless electric clippers and mobile phone chargers use a rectifier to change the AC from an electric wall outlet to the DC needed to recharge their batteries. 

There are two types of electric current:

Direct current (dy-REKT KUR-unt), abbreviated DC, is a constant, even-flowing current that travels in one direction only and is produced by chemical means. Flashlights, mobile telephones, and cordless hairstyling tools use the direct current produced by batteries. The battery in your car stores electric energy. Without it, your car would not start in the morning. A converter (kun-VUR-tur) is an apparatus that changes direct current to alternating current. 

Alternating current

(AWL-tur-nayt-ing KUR-rent), abbreviated AC, is a rapid and interrupted current, flowing first in one direction and then in the opposite direction; it is produced by mechanical means and changes directions 60 times per second. Corded hair dryers, curling irons, electric files, and table lamps that plug into a wall outlet use alternating current. 

Colloids

Emulsion* A blend of two liquid where one forms tiny droplets which are evenly dispersed in the other. It is not strictly a mixture, because the two liquids do not actually mix. The technical term for combinations of this kind is a colloid*. 

  An emulsion (ee-MUL-shun) is an unstable physical mixture of two or more immiscible substances (substances that normally will not stay blended) plus a special ingredient called an emulsifier. An emulsifier (ee-MUL-suh-fy-ur) is an ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniform and fairly stable blend. Emulsions are considered to be a special type of suspension because they can separate, but the separation usually happens very slowly over a long period of time. An example of an emulsion is hand lotion.

EPILATORS

An epilator removes the hair from the bottom of the follicle. Wax is a commonly used epilator, applied in either hot or cold form as recommended by the manufacturer. Both products are made primarily of resins and beeswax. Cold wax is somewhat thicker and does not reqire fabric strips for removal. Because waxing removes the hair from the bottom of the follicle, the hair takes longer to grow back. The time between waxings is generally four to six weeks.

The skin contains two types of duct glands that extract materials from the blood to form new substances. These are sudoriferous glands and sebaceous glands.

Sudoriferous glands (sood-uh-RIF-uhrus GLANZ), also known as sweat glands, excrete perspiration and detoxify the body by excreting excess salt and unwanted chemicals. They consist of a secretory coil (seh-KREET-toh-ree KOYL), the coiled base of the sudoriferous gland, and a tube-like sweat duct that ends at the surface of the skin to form the sweat pore. Practically all parts of the body are supplied with sudoriferous glands, which are more numerous on the palms of the hands, the soles of the feet, the forehead, and the underarm (armpit).The sudoriferous glands regulate body temperature and help eliminate waste products from the body. The evaporation of sweat cools the skin’s surface. The activity of sudoriferous glands is greatly increased by heat, exercise, emotions, and certain drugs. The excretion of sweat is controlled by the nervous system. Normally, 1 to 2 pints of salt-containing liquids are eliminated daily through sweat pores in the skin.

ELASTICITY TEST 

 Normal elasticity of dry hair is approximatly: 20% / 1/5

 Normal elasticity of wet hair is approximatly 40 - 50 % 

 Perform an analysis of the client’s hair and scalp. Test the hair for elasticity and porosity on several areas of the head. If the hair has poor elasticity, do not perform a relaxer service.Hair elasticity is the ability of the hair to stretch and return to its original length without breaking. Hair elasticity is an indication of the strength of the side bonds that hold the hair’s individual fibers in place. Wet hair with normal elasticity will stretch up to 50 percent of its original length and return to that same length without breaking. Dry hair stretches about 20 percent of its length. Hair with low elasticity is brittle and breaks easily. It may not be able to hold the curl from wet setting, thermal styling, or permanent waving. Hair with low elasticity is the result of weak side bonds that usually are a result of overprocessing. Chemical services performed on hair with low elasticity require a milder solution with a lower pH to minimize further damage and prevent additional overprocessing. Check elasticity on wet hair by taking an individual strand from four different areas of the head (front hairline, temple, crown, and nape). Hold a single strand of wet hair securely and try to pull it apart. If the hair stretches and returns to its original length without breaking, it has normal elasticity. If the hair breaks easily or fails to return to its original length, it has low elasticity

Emulsifiers- Binders-Gums

An emulsifier  (ee-MUL-suh-fy-ur) is an ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniform and fairly stable blend

Endothermic Waves

An endothermic chemical reaction is one that absorbs heat from its surroundings. Endothermic waves (en-duh-THUR-mik) are activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-tpye hair dryer. Endothermic waves will not process properly at room temperature. Most true acid waves are endothermic and require the added heat of a hair dryer.

FALLEN

fallen hair (the opposite of Remi hair), hair that has been shed from the head and gathered from a hairbrush, as opposed to hair that has been cut? Fallen hair is not turned, so the cuticles of the strands will move in different directions. This makes it tangle. In what is called Remi refined hair, the cuticle is partially removed, so that it will not lock and mat. This hair tends to be less expensive than Remi hair.

Fillers are used to equalize porosity. Some fillers are ready to use as thee come from the manufacturer. Others are a mixture of haircolor  and conditioner that your instructor can help you prepare. There are two types of fillers: conditioner fillers and color fillers.

Conditioner fillers are used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair and equalize porosity so that the hair accepts the color evenly  from strand to strand and from scalp to ends. They can be appied in a separate rocedure or immediately prior to the color application.

Color fillers equalize porosity and deposit color in one application to provide a uniform contributing pigment on prelightened hair. Color fillers are used on overer porous, prelightened hair to equalize porosity and provide a uniform contributing pigment that complements the desired finished color. Demipermanent haircolor products are commonly used as color fillers. Color fillers accomplish the following goals:

• Deposit color to faded ends and hair shaft.

• Help repare hair to hold a final color by replacing missing  building blocks.

• prevent streaking and dull appearance.

• prevent off-color results.

• produce more uniform, nattral-looking color. 

• produce uniform color when coloring prelightened hair back to its natural color

GLYCERL MONOTHIOGLYCOLATE

Acid Waves

Glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)

(GLIS-ur-il mon-oh-thY-oh-Gly-koh-laYt) is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions. It has a low pH. Although it is the primary reducing agent in all acid waves, it may not be the only one. Most  acid waves also contain ATG, just like a cold wave. Although the  low pH of acid waves may seem ideal, repeated exposure to GMTG is known to cause allergic sensitivity in both hairstylists and clients.

GUANDINE

Guanidine (GWAN-ih-deen) hydroxide relaxers are also advertised and sold as no-lye relaxers. Although technically they are not lye, the hydroxide ion is still the active ingredient. Guanidine hydroxide relaxers contain two components that must be mixed immediately prior to use. These relaxers straighten hair completely, with less scalp irritation than other hpdroxide relaxers. Most guanidine hydroxide relaxers are recommended for sensitive scalps, and they are sold over the counter for home use. Although they reduce scalp irritation, they do not reduce hair damage. They swell the hair slightly more than other hydroxide relaxers, and they are also more drying, especially after repeated applications. 

HUE

The tone, also known as hue, is the balance of color. The tone or hue answers the question of which color to use based on the client’s desired results. These tones can be described as warm, cool, or neutral. Warm tones can look lighter than their actaul level. These tones are golden, orange, red, and yellow. Some haircolors use words such as auburn, amber, copper, strawberry, and bronze, which mayu be a better  way to discuss and describe haircoior with the client. Cool tones can look deeper than their actual level. These tones are blue, green, and violet. Some describe cool tones as smoke or ash to the client. Natural tones are warm tones and are described as sandy or tan. 

HYDROGEN BONDS

Side Bonds of the Cortex

The cortex is made up of millions of polypeptide chains. Polypeptide chains are cross-linked like the rungs on a ladder by three different types of side bonds that link the polypeptide chains together and are responsible for the extreme strength and elasticity of human hair. They are essential to services such as wet setting, thermal styling, permanent waving, and chemical hair relaxing (see Chapter 20, Chemical Texture Services). The three types of side bonds are hydrogen, salt, and disulfide bonds 

•  A hydrogen bond is a weak, physical, cross-link side bond that is easily broken by water or heat. Although individual hydrogen bonds are very weak, there are so many of them that they account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength. Hydrogen bonds are broken by wetting the hair with water (Figure 11–7). That allows the hair to be stretched and wrapped around rollers. The hydrogen bonds reform when the hair dries.

•  A salt bond is also a weak, physical, cross-link side bond between adjacent polypeptide chains. Salt bonds depend on pH, so they are easily broken by strong alkaline or acidic solutions. Even though they are weak bonds, there are so many of them that they account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength. 

•  A disulfide bond (dy-SUL-fyd BAHND) is a strong, chemical, side bond that is very different from the physical side bond of a hydrogen bond or salt bond. The disulfide bond joins the sulfur atoms of two neighboring cysteine (SIS-ti-een) amino acids to create one cystine (SIS-teen). The cystine joins together two polypeptide strands. Although there are far fewer disulfide bonds than hydrogen or salt bonds, disulfide bonds are so much stronger that they also account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength. Disulfide bonds are not broken by water. They are broken by permanent waves and chemical hair relaxers that alter the shape of hair Additionally, normal amounts of heat, such as the heat used in conventional thermal styling, do not break disulfide bonds. The bonds can be broken by extreme heat produced by boiling water and some high-temperature thermal styling tools such as straightening or flat irons. Thio permanent waves break disulfide bonds and reform the bonds with thio neutralizers. Hydroxide chemical hair relaxers break disulfide bonds and then convert them to lanthionine bonds (lan-THY-oh-neen BAHNDZ) when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair. The disulfide bonds that are treated with hydroxide relaxers are broken permanently and can never be reformed

Histology (his-TAHL-uh-jee), also known as microscopic anatomy (mi-kroh-SKAHp-ik ah-NAT-ah-mee), is the study of tiny structures found in living tissues.

INTEGUMENTARY SYSTEM

Body system that consists of skin and its accessory organs, such as the oil and sweat glands, sensory receptors, hair, and nails; serves as a protective covering and helps regulate the body’s temperature.

INSERSION TO ORIGIN

 Insertion. The part of the muscle that moves and is farthest from the skeleton.pressure in massage is usually directed from the insertion to the origin. 

A muscle has three parts:

  Origin. The part of the muscle that does not move and is attached closest to the skeleton.

  Belly. The middle part of the muscle.

insertion. The part of the muscle that moves and is farthest from the skeleton.

LANUGO

Lanugo (/la·nu·go/,[1] from Latin lana “wool”) is very fine, soft, and usually unpigmented, downy hair on the body of a fetus or newborn baby. It is the first hair to be produced by the fetal hair follicles, and it usually appears on the fetus at about 5 months of gestation. It is normally shed before birth, around 7 or 8 months of gestation but is often present at birth and disappears on its own within a few days or weeks. Lanugo hair will invariably be shed by three to four months after birth. It is replaced by hair covering the same surfaces called vellus hair, but this hair is finer and more difficult to see. The more visible hair that continues into adulthood is called terminal hair. This forms in specific areas and is hormone dependant

Leukoderma (loo-koh-DUR-muh) is a skin disorder characterized by light abnormal patches (hypopigmentation); it is caused by a burn or congenital disease that destroys the pigment-producing cells. Examples are vitiligo and albinism

MATCH TEST

What is the fastest way to tell if a strand of hair is a synthetic product or real human hair? Pull the strand out of the wig or hairpiece and burn it with a match. Human hair will burn slowly, giving off a distinctive odor. A strand of synthetic fiber, on the other hand, will either ball up and melt, extinguishing itself (a characteristic of a synthetic like Kanekalon®), or it will continue to flame and burn out very quickly (typical of polyester). In either case, it will not give off an odor.

(MRSA) is a type of staph bacteria that is resistant to certain antibiotics called beta-lactams. These antibiotics include methicillin and other more common antibiotics such as oxacillin, penicillin, and amoxicillin. In the community, most MRSA infections are skin infections. Staph is responsible for food poisoning and a wide Range of diseases, including toxic shock syndrome. Some types of infectious staph bacteria are highly resistant to conventional treatments such as antibiotics. An example is the staph infection called methicillin-resistant staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) (METH-eh-sill-en-ree-ZIST-ent staf-uh-loh-KOK-us OR-ee-us). Historically, MRSA occurred most frequently among persons with weakened immune systems or among people who had undergone medical procedures. Today, it has become more common in otherwise healthy people. Clients who appear completely healthy may bring this organism into the salon where it can infect others. Some people carry the bacteria and are not even aware of their infection, but the people they infect may show more obvious symptoms. MRSA initially appears as a skin infection, such as pimples, rashes, and boils that can be difficult to cure. Without proper treatment, the infection becomes systemic and can have devastating consequences that can result in death.

Miliaria rubra (mil-ee-AIR-ee-ah ROOB-rah), also known as prickly heat, is an acute inflammatory disorder of the sweat glands, characterized by the eruption of small red vesicles and accompanied by burning, itching skin. It is caused by exposure to excessive heat and usually clears in a short time without treatment.

Cells have the ability to reproduce, thus providing new cells for the growth and replacement of worn or injured ones. Mitosis(my-TOH-sis) is the usual process of cell reproduction of human tissues that occurs when the cell divides into two identical cells called daughter cells. Two small structures near the nucleus called centrioles (SEN-tree-olz) move to each side during the mitosis process to help divide the cell. As long as conditions are favorable, the cell will grow and reproduce. Favorable conditions include an adequate supply of food, oxygen, and water; suitable temperatures; and the ability to eliminate waste products. If conditions become unfavorable, the cell will become impaired or may die. unfavorable conditions include toxins (poisons), disease, and injury

Myology

Myology (my-AHL-uh-jee) is the study of the nature, structure, function, and diseases of the muscles. The human body has over 630 muscles, which are responsible for approximately 40 percent of the body’s weight. Muscles are fibrous tissues that have the ability to stretch and contract according to demands of the body’s movements. 

There are three types of muscle tissse.

 Striated muscles (STRy-ayt-ed MuS-uls), also known as skeletal muscles. Muscles that are attached to the bones and are voluntary or are consciously controlled. Striated muscles assist in maintaining the body’s posture and protect some internal organs 

•  Nonstriated muscles (nahn-STRy-ayt-ed MuS-uls), also known as smooth muscles. Muscles that are involuntary and function automtically, without conscious will. These muscles are found in the internal organs of the body, such as the digestive or respiratory systems 

•  Cardiac muscle. involuntary muscle that is the heart. This type of muscle is not found in and other part of the body

A muscle has three parts:

•  Origin. The part of the muscle that does not move and is attached closest to the skeleton.

•  Belly. The middle part of the muscle.

•  Insertion. The part of the muscle that moves and is farthest from the skeleton. 

There are thousands of different kinds of bacteria that fall into two primary types: 

nonpathogenic (non-path-uh-JEN-ik); in other words, they are harmless organisms that may perform useful functions. They are safe to come in contact with since they do not cause disease or harm. For example, nonpathogenic bacteria  are used to make yogurt, cheese, and some medicines. In the human body, nonpathogenic bacteria help the body break down food and protect against infection. They also stimulate the immune system.

Pathogenic (path-uh-JEN-ik) bacteria are harmful microorganisms that can cause disease or infection in humans when they invade the body. Salons and schools must maintain strict standards for cleaning and disinfecting at all times to prevent the spread of pathogenic microorganisms.

OHMS

An ohm (OHM), abbreviated O, is a unit that measures the resistance of an electric current. Current will not flow through a conductor unless the force (volts) is stronger than the resistance (ohms).

ORGANS

Organs are structures composed of specialized tissues designed to perform specific functions in plants and animals. Nine Major Body Organs and Their Functions,

BRAIN-Controls the body

EYES-Control the body’s vision.

HEART-Circulates the blood.

KIDNEYS-Excrete water and waste products.

LUNGS-Supply oxygen to the blood.

LIVER-Removes waste created by digestion.

SKIN-Covers the body and is the external protective coating.

STOMACH-Digests food, along with the intestines

INTESTINES-Digest food, along with the stomach.

PERICARDIUM

The heart is a muscular, cone-shaped organ that keeps the blood moving within the circulatory system. it is often referred to as the body’s pump. The heart is enclosed by a double-layered membranous sac known as the pericardium (payr-ih-KAR-dee-um), which is made of epithelial tissse.

POROSITY TEST

Hair porosity is the ability of the hair to absorb moisture. The degree of porosity is directly related to the condition of the cuticle layer. Healthy hair with a compact cuticle layer is naturally resistant to being penetrated by moisture and is referred to as hydrophobic (hy-druh-FOHB-ik). Porous hair has a raised cuticle layer that easily absorbs moisture and is called hydrophilic (hy-druh-FIL-ik).Hair with low porosity is considered resistant. Chemical services performed on hair with low porosity require a more alkaline solution than those on hair with high porosity. Alkaline solutions raise  the cuticle and permit uniform saturation and processing on resistant hair.Hair with average porosity is considered to be normal hair. Chemical services performed on this type of hair will usually process as expected, according to the texture.

PRIMER

Nail Primer.....Many kinds of nail primers are available today. In the past, acid-based nail primer (methacrylic acid) was widely used to help adhere enhancements to the natural nail. Since acid-based nail primer is corrosive to the skin and potentially dangerous to eyes, acid-free and nonacid primers were developed. Acid-free and nonacid primers are the types of primers that are most often used today. They work as well as or better than acid-based nail primers, and have the added advantage of not being corrosive to skin or eyes.

Parasites are organisms that grow, feed, and shelter on or in another organism (referred to as a host), while contributing nothing to the survival of that organism. They must have a host to survive. Parasites can live on or inside of humans and animals. They also can be found in food, on plants and trees, and in water. Humans can acquire internal parasites by eating fish or meat that has not been properly cooked. 

External parasites that affect humans on or in the skin include ticks, fleas, and mites.Head lice are a type of parasite responsible for contagious diseases and conditions . One condition caused by an infestation of head lice is called pediculosis capitis                     (puh-dik-yuh-LOH-sis KAP-ih-tus).         Scabies (SKAY-beez) is also a contagious skin disease and is caused by the itch mite, which burrows under the skin.There are thousands of different kinds of bacteria that fall into two primary types:

nonpathogenic (non-path-uh-JEN-ik); in other words, they are harmless organisms that may perform useful functions. They are safe to come in contact with since they do not cause disease or harm. For example, nonpathogenic bacteria  are used to make yogurt, cheese, and some medicines. In the human body, nonpathogenic bacteria help the body break down food and protect against infection. They also stimulate the immune system.

Pathogenic (path-uh-JEN-ik) bacteria are harmful microorganisms that can cause disease or infection in humans when they invade the body. Salons and schools must maintain strict standards for cleaning and disinfecting at all times to prevent the spread of pathogenic microorganisms.

PARASITES/PATHOGENIC BACTERIA Parasites are organisms that derive nourishment and protection from other living organisms known as hosts. Many of these organisms can be transmitted by water, soil, or person-to-person contact. Parasites range in size from tiny, single-celled organisms to worms visible to the naked eye. In the United States, the most common foodborne parasites are protozoa, roundworms, and tapeworms.

There are thousands of different kinds of bacteria that fall into two primary types: 

Pathogenic (path-uh-JEN-ik) bacteria are harmful microorganisms that can cause disease or infection in humans when they invade the body. Salons and schools must maintain strict standards for cleaning and disinfecting at all times to prevent the spread of pathogenic microorganisms.

nonpathogenic (non-path-uh-JEN-ik); in other words, they are harmless organisms that may perform useful functions. They are safe to come in contact with since they do not cause disease or harm. For example, nonpathogenic bacteria  are used to make yogurt, cheese, and some medicines. In the human body, nonpathogenic bacteria help the body break down food and protect against infection. They also stimulate the immune system.

Photoepilation.....

Also known as INTENSE PULSED LIGHT

Uses intense light to destroy the growth cells of the hasir follicles. Can provide between 50 & 60 % clearance of hair in twelve weeks. Requires no needles, has minimal sides effects, and minimizes the risk of infection.

Milady, 2012 Edition (page 692)

Physiology (fiz-ih-OL-oh-jee) is the study of the functions and activities performed by the body’s structures. The ending -ology means study of.

Physiology (/ˌfɪziˈɒlədʒi/; Human physiology is the science of the mechanical, physical, and biochemical functions of humans, their organs, and the cells of which they are composed. The principal level of focus of physiology is at the level of organs and systems within systems. Much of the foundation of knowledge in human physiology was provided by animal experimentation. Physiology is closely related to anatomy; anatomy is the study of form, and physiology is the study of function. Due to the frequent connection between form and function, physiology and anatomy are intrinsically linked and are studied in tandem as part of a medical curriculum.

Pityriasis (pit-ih-RY-uh-sus) is the technical term for dandruff, which is characterized by the excessive production and accumulation of skin cells. Instead of the normal, one-at-a-time shedding of tiny individual skin cells, dandruff is the shedding of an accumulation of large visible clumps of skin cells. Although the cause of dandruff has been debated for over 150 years, current research confirms that dandruff is the result of a fungus called malassezia(mal-uh-SEEZ-ee-uh). malassezia is a naturally occurring fungus that is present on all human skin but causes the symptoms of dandruff when it grows out of control. Some individuals are also more susceptible to malassezia’s irritating effects. Factors such as stress, age, hormones, and poor hygiene can cause the fungus to multiply and dandruff symptoms to worsen.

 Pityriasis capitis simplex

(pit-ih-RY-uh-sus KAP-ih-tis SIM-pleks) is the technical term for classic dandruff that is characterized by scalp irritation, large flakes, and an itchy scalp. The scales may attach to the scalp in masses, scatter loosely in the hair, or fall to the shoulders. Regular use of antidandruff shampoos, conditioners, and topical lotions are the best treatment.

•  Pityriasis steatoides

(pit-ih-RY-uh-sus stee-uh-TOY-deez) is a more severe case of dandruff characterized by an accumulation of greasy or waxy scales, mixed with sebum, that stick to the scalp in crusts. 

Quaternary ammonium compounds

(KWAT-ur-nayr-ree uh-MOH-neeum KAHM-powndz), also known as quats (KWATZ), are disinfectants that are very effective when used properly in the salon. 

The most advanced type of these formulations is called multiple quats. Multiple quats contain sophisticated blends of quats that work together to dramatically increase the effectiveness of these disinfectants. Quat solutions usually disinfect implements in ten minutes. These formulas may contain anti-rust ingredients, so leaving tools in the solution for prolonged periods can cause  dulling or damage. They should be removed from the solution after the specified period, rinsed (if required), dried, and stored  in a clean, covered container.

RECTIFIER

A rectifier (REK-ti-fy-ur) is an apparatus that changes alternating current (AC) to direct current (DC). Cordless electric clippers and mobile phone chargers use a rectifier to change the AC from an electric wall outlet to the DC needed to recharge their batteries. 

There are two types of electric current:

Direct current (dy-REKT KUR-unt), abbreviated DC, is a constant, even-flowing current that travels in one direction only and is produced by chemical means. Flashlights, mobile telephones, and cordless hairstyling tools use the direct current produced by batteries. The battery in your car stores electric energy. Without it, your car would not start in the morning. A converter (kun-VUR-tur) is an apparatus that changes direct current to alternating current. Converters usually have a plug and a cord. They allow you to use appliances outside of the salon or your home that normally would have to be plugged into an electric wall outlet. The mobile phone charger in a car is an example of a converter

Alternating current

(AWL-tur-nayt-ing KUR-rent), abbreviated AC, is a rapid and interrupted current, flowing first in one direction and then in the opposite direction; it is produced by mechanical means and changes directions 60 times per second. Corded hair dryers, curling irons, electric files, and table lamps that plug into a wall outlet use alternating current. 

REDOX

Oxidation–reduction, also known as redox (ree-DOCS), is a chemical reaction in which the oxidizing agent is reduced (by losing oxygen) and the reducing agent is oxidized (by gaining oxygen). Even though the word order is reversed, redox is used as a contraction of the term oxidation-reduction.

SAPROPHYTES-

pathogenic bacteria

•  Cocci (KOK-sy) are round-shaped bacteria that appear singly (alone)or in groups 

•  Staphylococci (staf-uh-loh-KOK-sy) are pus-forming bacteria that grow in clusters like bunches of grapes. They cause abscesses, pustules, and boils. Some types of staphylococci (or staph as many call it) may not cause infections in healthy humans.

•  Streptococci (strep-toh-KOK-sy) are pus-forming bacteria arranged in curved lines resembling a string of beads. They cause infections such as strep throat and blood poisoning .

•  Diplococci (dip-lo-KOK-sy) are spherical bacteria that grow in pairs and cause diseases such as pneumonia.

•  Bacilli (bah-SIL-ee) are short rod-shaped bacteria. They are the most common bacteria and produce diseases such as tetanus (lockjaw), 

SCABIES

Scabies (SKAY-beez) is also a contagious skin disease and is caused by the itch mite, which burrows under the skin. Contagious diseases and conditions caused by parasites should only be treated by a doctor. 

SEBORRHEA / SEBORRHEIC DERMATITUS

Seborrheic dermatitis (seb-oh-REE-ick derm-ah-TIE-tus) is a skin condition caused by an inflammation of the sebaceous glands. It is often characterized by redness, dry or oily scaling, crusting, and/or itchiness  The red, flaky skin often appears in the eyebrows and beard, in the scalp and hairline, at the middle of the forehead, and along the sides of the nose. Mild flares of seborrheic dermatitis are sometimes treated with cortisone creams. Seborrheic dermatitis is a medical condition, but it can be helped in the salon with the application of non-fatty skin care products designed for sensitive skin. Severe cases should be referred to a dermatologist, who will often prescribe topical antifungal medications.

The skin contains two types of duct glands that extract materials from the blood to form new substances. These are sudoriferous glands and sebaceous glands

Sebaceous glands (sih-BAY-shus GLANZ), also known as oil glands, are connected to the hair follicles. They consist of little sacs with ducts that open into the follicles. These glands secrete sebum (SEE-bum), a fatty or oily substance  that lubricates the skin and preserves the softness of the hair. With the exception of the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet, these glands are found in all parts of the body, particularly in the face and scalp, where they are larger.

SODIUM HYDROXIDE

Sodium hpdroxide (NaOH) relaxers are commonly called lye relaxers. Sodium hydroxide is the oldest, and still the most common, type of chemical hair relaxer. Sodium hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. Sodium hydroxide is the same chemical that is used in drain cleaners and chemical hair depilatories.

Household bleach, 5.25 percent sodium hypochlorite (SOH-dee-um hy-puh-KLOR-ite), is an effective disinfectant and has been used extensively as a disinfectant in the salon. Using too much bleach can damage some metals and plastics, so be sure to read the label for safe use. Bleach can be corrosive to metals and plastics and can cause skin irritation and eye damage.To mix a bleach solution, always follow the manufacturer’s directions. Store the bleach solution away from heat and light. A fresh bleach solution should be mixed every twenty-four hours or when the solution has been contaminated. After mixing the bleach solution, date the container to ensure that the solution is not saved from one day to the next. Bleach can be irritating to the lungs, so be careful about inhaling the fumes. 

SOLUTE

A solution is a stable physical mixture of two or more substances.The solute (SAHL-yoot) is the substance that is dissolved into solution

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Wrapping Techniques There are two basic methods of wrapping the hair around the perm rod: croquignole perm wrap and spiral perm wrap.

SPIRAL

in a spiral perm wrap the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, like the stripes on a candy cane. A spiral perm wrap may partially overlay the preceding layers. As long as the angle remains constant, any overlay will be uniform along the length of the rod and the strand of hair. This wrapping technique causes the size (diameter) of the curl to remain constant along the entire length of the strand and produces a uniform curl from the scalp to the ends. For extra-long hair, you may need to use a double-rod wrap, also known as piggyback wrap, in which the hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft, and another rod is used to wrap the remaining hair strand in the same direction. This allows for better penetration of the processing solution and for a tighter curl near the scalp than that provided by a conventional croquignole wrap.

Preliminary Strand Test ..Once you have created a color formula for your client, try it out first on  a small strand of hair. This preliminary strand test determines how the 

hair will react to the color formula and how long the formula should be left on the hair. The strand test is performed after the client is prepared for the colring service

Septic

Unclean tools, not disinfected, and stored in a sanitary manner

Staphylococci (staf-uh-loh-KOK-sy) are pus-forming bacteria that grow in clusters like bunches of grapes. They cause abscesses, pustules, and boils . Some types of staphylococci (or staph as many call it) may not cause infections in healthy humans.

Subjective

Conditions, results, or outcomes that cannot be seen 

The skin contains two types of duct glands that extract materials from the blood to form new substances. These are sudoriferous glands and sebaceous glands.

Sudoriferous glands (sood-uh-RIF-uhrus GLANZ), also known as sweat glands, excrete perspiration and detoxify the body by excreting excess salt and unwanted chemicals. They consist of a secretory coil (seh-KREET-toh-ree KOYL), the coiled base of the sudoriferous gland, and a tube-like sweat duct that ends at the surface of the skin to form the sweat pore. Practically all parts of the body are supplied with sudoriferous glands, which are more numerous on the palms of the hands, the soles of the feet, the forehead, and the underarm (armpit).The sudoriferous glands regulate body temperature and help eliminate waste products from the body. The evaporation of sweat cools the skin’s surface. The activity of sudoriferous glands is greatly increased by heat, exercise, emotions, and certain drugs. The excretion of sweat is controlled by the nervous system. Normally, 1 to 2 pints of salt-containing liquids are eliminated daily through sweat pores in the skin.

Suspensions

(sus-PEN-shunz) are unstable physical mixtures of undissolved particles in a liquid. Compared with solutions,suspensions contain larger and less miscible particles. The particlesare generally visible to the naked eye but are not large enough to settle quickly to the bottom. Suspensions are ot usually transparentand may be colored. They are unstable and separate over time, which is why some lotions and creams can separate in the bottle and need to be shaken before they are used. Another example of a suspension is the glitter in nail polish that can separate from the polish.  Oil and vinegar salad dressing is an example of a suspension, with tiny oil droplets suspended in the vinegar. The suspension will separate when left sitting still and must be shaken before using.Calamine lotion and nail polish are other examples of suspensions.

TISSUE

Tissue (TiSH-oo) is a collection of similar cells that perform a particular function. Each kind of tissue has a specific function and can be recognized be its characteristic appearance. Body tissues 

are composed of large amounts of water, along with various other substances. There are four types of tissue in the body:

•  Connective tissue is fibrous tissue that binds together, protects, and supports the various parts of the body. Examales of connective tissue are bone, cartilage, ligaments, tendons, blood, lymth, and adipose 

tissue (ADD-ih-pohz TiSH-oo), a technical term for fat. Adipose tissue gives smoothness and contour to the body. 

•  Epithelial tissue (ep-ih-THEE-lee-ul TiSH-oo) is a protective covering on body surfaces, such as skin, mucous membranes, the  tissue inside the mouth, the lining of the heart, digestive and respiratory organs, and the glands.

• Muscle tissue contracts and moves various parts of the body.

•  Nerve tissue carries messages to and from the brain and controls and coordinates all bodily functions. Nerve tissue is composed of special cells known as neurons that make up the nerves, brain, and spinal 

cord.

TOUPEE

While men usually are the clients for toupees, women can also wear these hairpieces. A toupee is a small wig used to cover the top and crown of the head. The fine-net base is usually the most appropriate material for the client with severe hair loss. There are two ways to attach toupees: temporary (tape or clips) or semipermanent (tracks, adhesive, or sewing).

Traction alopecia.....This condition is particularly prevalent among African-American women and children. It begins with scalp irritation and excessive flakiness, and eventually leads to hair loss, articularly around the hairline. Wearing excessively tight braids (tight enough to pull the hair or impede circulation to the scalp) over a prolonged period of time can lead to permanent hair loss. Keep in mind that while braids are beautiful, they must be without excessive tension to avoid long-term follicle damage.

TURNED HAIR

turned hair, also known as Remi hair, is hair in which the root end of every single strand is sewn into the base, so that the cuticles of all hair strands move in the same direction: down. The hair is in better condition, and it is much easier to work with because it doesn’t tangle easily. Turning is a tedious, time-consuming process that increases the cost of the  hair addition

Although pH, the abbreviation used for potential hydrogen, is often mentioned when talking about salon products, it is one of the least understood chemical properties. Notice that pH is written with a small p (which represents a quantity) and a capital H (which represents the hydrogen ion). The term pH represents the quantity of hydrogen ions. 

Tinea (TIN-ee-uh) is the technical term for ringworm. It is characterized by itching, scales, and, sometimes, painful circular lesions. Several patches may be present at one time. Tinea is caused by a fungal organism and not a parasite, as the old-fashioned term ringworm seems to suggest. All forms of tinea are contagious and can be easily transmitted from  one person to another. Infected skin scales or hairs that contain the fungi are known to spread the disease. Bathtubs, swimming pools, and uncleaned personal articles are also sources of transmission. Practicing approved cleaning and disinfection procedures will help prevent the  spread of this disease in the salon.

"Athletes Foot, Jock Itch and Ringworm". Cleveland Clinic. Retrieved 2012-07-25. "Ringworm is a skin rash caused by a fungus; it is not caused by a worm. (Fungus is a plant-like structure.) Health care providers call ringworm "tinea." "Athlete's foot" (tinea pedis) and "jock itch" (tinea cruris) are types of ringworm."

Trichology

The scientific study of hair and scalp its diseases and care is called trichology (trih-KAHL-uh-jee), which comes from the Greek words trichos (hair) and ology (the study of)

ULTRA VIOLET RAYS

The sun and its ultraviolet (UV) light have the greatest impact of all extrinsic factors on how skin ages. Approximately 80 to 85 percent of the symptoms of aging skin are caused by the rays of the sun. As we age, the collagen and elastin fibers of the skin naturally weaken. This weakening happens at a much faster rate when the skin is frequently exposed to UV light without proper protection.

UVA

UVA rays, also known as aging rays, are deep-penetrating rays that can even go through a glass window. These rays weaken the collagen and elastin fibers, causing wrinkling and sagging of the tissues.

UVB

UVB rays, also known as burning rays, cause sunburns, tanning of the skin, and the majority of skin cancers. These are shorter rays that stop penetration at the base of the epidermis.

VELLUS

Vellus hair (VEL-us HAYR), also known as lanugo hair (luh-NOO-goh HAYR), is short, fine, unpigmented, and downy hair that appears on the body. Vellus hair almost never has a medulla. It is commonly found on infants and can be present on children until puberty. On adults, vellus hair is usually found in places that are normally considered hairless (forehead, eyelids, and bald scalp), As well as nearly all other areas of the body, except the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet. Women normally retain 55 percent more vellus hair than men. Vellus hair helps with the evaporation of perspiration.

A watt (WAHT), abbreviated W, is a unit that measures how much electric energy is being used in one second. A 40-watt light bulb uses  40 watts of energy per second.

HYDROGEN BONDS

Side Bonds of the Cortex

The cortex is made up of millions of polypeptide chains. Polypeptide chains are cross-linked like the rungs on a ladder by three different types of side bonds that link the polypeptide chains together and are responsible for the extreme strength and elasticity of human hair. They are essential to services such as wet setting, thermal styling, permanent waving, and chemical hair relaxing (see Chapter 20, Chemical Texture Services). The three types of side bonds are hydrogen, salt, and disulfide bonds 

•  A hydrogen bond is a weak, physical, cross-link side bond that is easily broken by water or heat. Although individual hydrogen bonds are very weak, there are so many of them that they account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength. Hydrogen bonds are broken by wetting the hair with water (Figure 11–7). That allows the hair to be stretched and wrapped around rollers. The hydrogen bonds reform when the hair dries.

•  A salt bond is also a weak, physical, cross-link side bond between adjacent polypeptide chains. Salt bonds depend on pH, so they are easily broken by strong alkaline or acidic solutions. Even though they are weak bonds, there are so many of them that they account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength. 

•  A disulfide bond (dy-SUL-fyd BAHND) is a strong, chemical, side bond that is very different from the physical side bond of a hydrogen bond or salt bond. The disulfide bond joins the sulfur atoms of two neighboring cysteine (SIS-ti-een) amino acids to create one cystine (SIS-teen). The cystine joins together two polypeptide strands. Although there are far fewer disulfide bonds than hydrogen or salt bonds, disulfide bonds are so much stronger that they also account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength. Disulfide bonds are not broken by water. They are broken by permanent waves and chemical hair relaxers that alter the shape of hair Additionally, normal amounts of heat, such as the heat used in conventional thermal styling, do not break disulfide bonds. The bonds can be broken by extreme heat produced by boiling water and some high-temperature thermal styling tools such as straightening or flat irons. Thio permanent waves break disulfide bonds and reform the bonds with thio neutralizers. Hydroxide chemical hair relaxers break disulfide bonds and then convert them to lanthionine bonds (lan-THY-oh-neen BAHNDZ) when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair. The disulfide bonds that are treated with hydroxide relaxers are broken permanently and can never be reformed

A normal, healthy nail is firm but flexible. The surface is shiny, smooth, and unspotted with no wavy ridges, pits, or splits. A healthy nail also is whitish and translucent in appearance, with the pinkish color of the nail bed showing through. In some races, the nail bed may have more yellow tones. The water content of the nail varies according to the relative humidity of the surrounding environment; in a humid environment, 

nails contain more water. A healthy nail may look dry and hard, but its water content is actually between 15 and 25 percent. The water content directly affects the nail’s flexibility. The lower the water content, the 

more rigid the nail becomes. Coating the plate with an oil-based nail conditioner or nail polish improves flexibility by reducing water loss. These products also prevent excessive water absorption.

objective

Conditions, results, or outcomes that can be seen (obvious)

HYDROGEN BONDS

HYDROGEN BONDS

Side Bonds of the Cortex

The cortex is made up of millions of polypeptide chains. Polypeptide chains are cross-linked like the rungs on a ladder by three different types of side bonds that link the polypeptide chains together and are responsible for the extreme strength and elasticity of human hair. They are essential to services such as wet setting, thermal styling, permanent waving, and chemical hair relaxing (see Chapter 20, Chemical Texture Services). The three types of side bonds are hydrogen, salt, and disulfide bonds 

•  A hydrogen bond is a weak, physical, cross-link side bond that is easily broken by water or heat. Although individual hydrogen bonds are very weak, there are so many of them that they account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength. Hydrogen bonds are broken by wetting the hair with water (Figure 11–7). That allows the hair to be stretched and wrapped around rollers. The hydrogen bonds reform when the hair dries.

•  A salt bond is also a weak, physical, cross-link side bond between adjacent polypeptide chains. Salt bonds depend on pH, so they are easily broken by strong alkaline or acidic solutions. Even though they are weak bonds, there are so many of them that they account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength. 

•  A disulfide bond (dy-SUL-fyd BAHND) is a strong, chemical, side bond that is very different from the physical side bond of a hydrogen bond or salt bond. The disulfide bond joins the sulfur atoms of two neighboring cysteine (SIS-ti-een) amino acids to create one cystine (SIS-teen). The cystine joins together two polypeptide strands. Although there are far fewer disulfide bonds than hydrogen or salt bonds, disulfide bonds are so much stronger that they also account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength. Disulfide bonds are not broken by water. They are broken by permanent waves and chemical hair relaxers that alter the shape of hair Additionally, normal amounts of heat, such as the heat used in conventional thermal styling, do not break disulfide bonds. The bonds can be broken by extreme heat produced by boiling water and some high-temperature thermal styling tools such as straightening or flat irons. Thio permanent waves break disulfide bonds and reform the bonds with thio neutralizers. Hydroxide chemical hair relaxers break disulfide bonds and then convert them to lanthionine bonds (lan-THY-oh-neen BAHNDZ) when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair. The disulfide bonds that are treated with hydroxide relaxers are broken permanently and can never be reformed

symptomatic

Showing signs or symptoms of infection

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Carpus

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car•pus (kär p s) n. pl. car•pi (-p ) 1. The group of eight bones forming the joint between the forearm and the hand. Also called wrist.

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  Metacarpus

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met·a·car·pus (mt-kärps) n. pl. met·a·car·pi (-p) 1. The part of the human hand that includes the five bones between the fingers and the wrist

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 Lacrimal

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The lacrimal bone, the smallest and most fragile bone of the face, is situated at the front part of the medial wall of the orbit. It has two surfaces and four borders.

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WARM COLORS

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                              WARM COLORS

Warm tones can look lighter than their actual level. These tones are golden, orange, red, and yellow. Some haircolors use words such as auburn, amber, copper, strawberry, and bronze, which may be a better  way to discuss and describe haircolor with the client. Cool tones can look deeper than their actual level. These tones are blue, green, and violt. Some describe cool tones as smoke or ash to the client. Natural tones are warm tones and are described as sandy or tan.

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Hyoid bone

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Hyoid bone (Hy-oyd BOHN). u-shaded bone at the base of the  tongue that supports the tongue and its muscles.The larynx (lar-inks), commonly called the "voice box," is a tube shaped structure comprised of a complex system of muscle, cartilage, and connective tissue. The larynx is suspended from the hyoid bone, which is significant in that it is the only bone in the body that does not articulate with any other bone. The framework of the larynx is composed of three unpaired and three paired cartilages. The thyroid cartilage is the largest of the unpaired cartilages, and resembles a shield in shape. The most anterior portion of this cartilage is very prominent in some men, and is commonly referred to as an "Adam's apple."

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PERIONYCHIA

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the epidermis forming the border around a fingernail or toenail

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MANDIBLE

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MANDIBLE

man•di•ble-the mandible, the largest and strongest bone of the face, serves for the reception of the lower teeth. It consists of a curved, horizontal portion, the body, and two perpendicular portions, the rami, which unite with the ends of the body nearly at right angles

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Maxillae 

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Maxillae (mak-SIL-ee) (singular: maxilla, mak-SIL-uh). Bones of the upper jaw. There are two maxillae

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Sphenoid bone

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The sphenoid bone (/ˈsfiːnɔɪd/;[1][2] from Greek sphenoeides, "wedgelike") is an unpaired cranial bone situated at the front middle of the skull in front of the temporal bone and basilar part of the occipital bone. The sphenoid bone is one of the seven bones that articulate to form the orbit. Its shape somewhat resembles that of a butterfly or bat with its wings extended. Bone that joins all of the bones of the cranium together.

The sphenoid bone (/ˈsfiːnɔɪd/;[1][2] from Greek sphenoeides, "wedgelike") is an unpaired cranial bone situated at the front middle of the skull in front of the temporal bone and basilar part of the occipital bone. The sphenoid bone is one of the seven bones that articulate to form the orbit. Its shape somewhat resembles that of a butterfly or bat with its wings extended

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Palatine

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Turbinal

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(nasal conchae), part of the nasal cavity. Turbinate bones refers to any of the scrolly spongy bones of the nasal passages in vertebrates

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Logarithm 

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The term logarithm (LOG-ah-rhythm) means multiples of 10. Since the pH scale is a logarithmic scale, a change of one whole number represents a tenfold change in pH. This means, for example, that a pH of 8 is 10 times more alkaline than a pH of 7. A change of two whole numbers represents a change of 10 times 10, or a 100-fold change. So a pH of 9 is 100 times more alkaline than a pH of 7. Even a small change on the pH scale represents a large change in the pH.

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Anagen

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Anagen,Catagen, Telagen

Hair growth occurs in cycles. Each complete cycle has three phases that are repeated over and over again throughout life. The three phases are anagen, catagen, and telogen

 During the anagen phase (AN-uh-jen FAYZ), also known as growth phase, new hair is produced. New cells are actively manufactured in the hair follicle. During this phase, hair cells are produced faster than any other normal cell in the human body. The average growth of healthy scalp hair is about ½ (0.5) inch (1.25 centimeters) per month. The rate of growth varies  on different parts of the body, between sexes, and with age. Scalp hair grows faster on women than on men. Scalp hair grows rapidly between the ages of 15 and 30, but slows down sharply after the age of 50.

 About 90 percent of scalp hair is growing in the Anagen phase at any time. The anagen phase generally lasts from three to five years, but in some cases, it can last as long as 10 years. The longer the anagen cycle is, the longer the hair is able to grow. This is why some people can only grow their hair down to their shoulders, while others can grow it down to the floor!

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Catagen

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Anagen,Catagen, Telagen

Hair growth occurs in cycles. Each complete cycle has three phases that are repeated over and over again throughout life. The three phases are anagen, catagen, and telogen

The catagen phase (KAT-uh-jen FAYZ) is the brief transition period between the growth and resting phases of a hair follicle. It signals the end of the anagen phase. During the catagen phase, the follicle 

canal shrinks and detaches from the dermal papilla. The hair bulb disappears and the shrunken root end forms a rounded club. Less than one percent of scalp hair is in the catagen phase at any time. The catagen phase is very short, lasting from one to two weeks.

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Telogen

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Anagen,Catagen, Telagen

Hair growth occurs in cycles. Each complete cycle has three phases that are repeated over and over again throughout life. The three phases are anagen, catagen, and telogen

The telogen phase (TEL-uh-jen FAYZ), also known as resting phase, is the final phase in the hair cycle and lasts until the fully grown hair is shed. The hair is either shed during the telogen phase or remains in place until the next anagen phase, when the new hair 

growing in pushes it out. About 10 percent of scalp hair is in the telogen phase at any one time. The telogen phase lasts for approximately three to six months. As soon as the telogen phase ends, the hair returns to the anagen phase and begins the entire ycle again. On average, the entire growth cycle repeats itself once every four to five years

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Primary colors

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Primary colors are Pure or fundamental coLors (red, yellow, and blue) that cannot be created by combining other colors. All colors are created from these three primaries. Colors with a predominance of blue are cool colors, where as colors with a predominance of red and/or yellow are warm colors Blue is the strongest of the primary colors and is the only cool primary color. in addition to coolness, blue can also bring depth or Darkness to and color. Red is the medium primary Color. Adding red to blue-based colors will make them appear lighter; adding red to yellow colors will cause them to appear darker. yellow is the weakest of the primary colors. When you add yellow to other colors, the resulting color will look lighter and brighter. When all three primary colors are present in equal Proportions, the resulting color is brown. it is helpful to think of hair color in terms of different combinations of primary colors. Natural brown, for example, has the primary colors in the following proportions: blue-B, red-RR, and yellow-yyy. Black and white can’t be made by mixing colors together. They get excluded from basic color theory. White can be used to lighten a color. Black can be used to deepen a color. 

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THE LAW OF COLOR

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THE LAW OF COLOR

The law of color is a system for understanding color relationships. When combining colors, you will always get the same result from the same combination. Equal parts of red and blue mixed together always make violet. Equal parts of blue and yellow always make green. Equal parts of red and yellow always make orange. The color wheels   will help you understand colors.

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Pronator

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Pronator (proh-NAy-tohr). Muscle in the forearm that turns the hand inward so that the palm faces downward.

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Supinator

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Supinator (SOO-puh-nayt-ur). Muscle of the forearm that rotates the radius outward and the palm upward.

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BACILLI

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BACILLI

Bacilli (bah-SIL-ee) are short rod-shaped bacteria. They are the most  common bacteria and produce diseases such as tetanus (lockjaw) typhoid fever, tuberculosis, and diphtheria

Bacilli refers to a taxonomic class of bacteria. It includes two orders, Bacillales and Lactobacillales, which contain several well-known pathogens like Bacillus anthracis. (the cause of anthrax)

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Diplococci

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Diplococci

Spherical bacteria that grow in pairs and cause diseases such as pneumonia. Any of various encapsulated bacteria (as Streptococcus pneumoniae, a common cause of pneumonia) that usually occur in pairs and that were formerly grouped in a single taxon (genus Diplococcus) but are now all assigned to other general

 A diplococcus (plural diplococci) is a round bacterium (a coccus) that typically occurs in the form of two joined cells. Examples are gram-negative Neisseria sp., and gram-positiveStreptococcus sp. and Staphylococcus sp..

 Its name comes from diplo, meaning double, and coccus, meaning berry

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STAPHYLOCICCI

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 Staphylococci (staf-uh-loh-KOK-sy) are pus-forming bacteria that grow in clusters like bunches of grapes. They cause abscesses, pustules, and boils . Some types of staphylococci (or staph as many call it) may not cause infections in healthy humans.

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Desincrustation

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Desincrustation

(des-inkrus-TAy-shun) is a form of anaphoresis and is a process used to soften and emulsify grease deposits (oil) and blackheads in the hair follicles. Desincrustation is frequently used to treat acne, milia (small, white cust-like pimples), and comedones (blackheads and whiteheads).

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oil in water emulsions

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In an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, oil droplets are emulsified in water. The droplets of oil are surrounded by surfactant molecules with their lipophilic tails pointing in and their hydrophilic heads pointing out. Tiny oil droplets form the internal portion of each O/W emulsion because the oil is completely surrounded by water. Oil-in-water emulsions do not feel as greasy as water-in-oil emulsions because the oil is hidden and water forms the external portion of the emulsion.

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water in oil emulsions

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In a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, water droplets are emulsified in oil. The droplets of water are surrounded by surfactants with their hydrophilic heads pointing in and their lipophilic tails pointing out. Tiny droplets of water form the internal portion of a W/O emulsion because the water is completely surrounded by oil. Water-in-oil emulsions feel greasier than oil-in-water emulsions because the water is hidden and oil forms the external portion of the emulsion. Styling creams, cold creams, and foot balms are examples.

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HYPONYCHIA / HYPONYCHIUM

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Hyponychium

The hyponychium (hy-poh-NIK-eeum) is the slightly thickened layer of skin that lies between the fingertip and the free edge of the natural nail plate. It forms a protective barrier that prevents microorganisms from invading and infecting the nail bed.

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NAIL BED

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NAIL BED

The nail bed is the portion of living skin that supports the nail plate as it grows toward the free edge. Because it is richly supplied with blood vessels, the nail bed has a pinkish appearance from the lunula to the area just before the free edge of the nail. The nail bed contains many nerves, and is attached to the nail plate by a thin layer of tissue called the bed epithelium (BED ep-ih-THEE-lee-um). The bed epithelium helps guide the nail plate along the nail bed as it grows

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Parietal ridge

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Parietal ridge. This is the widest area of the head, starting at the temples and ending at the bottom of the crown. This area is easily found by placing a comb flat on the side of the head: the parietal ridge is found where the head starts to curve away from the comb. The parietal ridge is also referred to as the crest area. A guideline, also known as guide, is a section of hair that determines the length the hair will be cut. Guidelines are located either at the perimeter, the outer line, or the interior, inner or internal line, of the cut. The guideline is usually the first section cut when creating a shape. The two types of guidelines in haircutting are stationary and traveling.

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Paronychia 

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Paronychia 

Paronychia(payr-uh-NIK-ee-uh) is a bacterial inflammation of the tissues surrounding the nail . Redness, pus, and swelling are usually seen in the skin fold adjacent to the nail plate. Individuals who work with their hands in water, such as dishwashers and bartenders, or who must wash their hands continually, such as health-care workers and food processors, are more susceptible because their hands are often very dry or chapped from excessive exposure to water, detergents, and harsh soaps. This makes them much more likely to develop infections.

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Lunula

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LUNULA.....Visible part of the matrix that extends from underneath the living skin; it is the whitish, half-moon shape at the base of the nail. 

lu·nu·la (lny-l) n. pl. lu·nu·lae (-l) A small crescent-shaped structure or marking, especially the proximal region at the base of a fingernail that resembles a half-moon.

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MATRIX

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MATRIX

The matrix (MAY-trikz) is the area where the nail plate cells are formed; this area is composed of matrix cells that produce the nail plate cells. The matrix contains nerves, lymph, and blood vessels to nourish the matrix cells. As long as it is nourished and healthy, the matrix will continue to create new nail plate cells. The matrix extends from under the nail fold at the base of the nail plate. The visible part of the matrix that extends from underneath the living skin is called the lunula (LOO-nuh-luh). It is the whitish, half-moon shape at the base of the nail. The whitish color is caused by the reflection of light off the surface of the matrix. The lighter color of the lunula shows the true color of the matrix. Every nail  has a lunula, but some lunulas are short and remain hidden under the Eponychium. Growth and appearance of the nails can be affected if an individual is in poor health, if a nail disorder or disease is present, or if there has been an injury to the matrix.

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TINEA PEDIS

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Tinea pedis (TIN-ee-uh PED-us) is the medical term for fungal infections of the feet. These infections can occur on the bottoms of the feet and often appear as a red itchy rash in the spaces between the toes, most often between the fourth and fifth toe. There is sometimes a small degree of scaling of the skin. Clients with this condition should be advised to wash their feet every day and dry them completely. This will make it difficult for the infection to live or grow. Advise clients to wear cotton socks and change them at least twice per day. They should also avoid wearing the same pair of shoes each day, since shoes can take up to twenty-four hours to completely dry. Over-the-counter antifungal powders can help keep feet dry and may help speed healing

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 EGGSHELL NAILS

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EGGSHELL NAILS

hap•a•lo•nych•i•a (hapPă-lō-nik'ē-ă), Thinning of nails resulting in bending and breaking of the free edge, with longitudinal fissures

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 AGNAIL

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AGNAIL

ag•nail (gnl) n. 1. A hangnail. 2. A painful sore or swelling around a fingernail or toenail

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 BEAU'S LINES

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 BEAU'S LINES

Beau's line (bz) n. Transverse depressions on the fingernails occurring after trauma such as severe febrile disease, malnutrition, or coronary occlusion

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Onychophagy

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Onychophagy

(ahn-ih-koh-FAY-jee), also known as bitten nails,is the result of a habit of chewing the nail or the hardened, damaged skin surrounding the nail plate. Advise clients that frequent manicures and care of the hardened Eponychium can often help them overcome this habit, at the same time improving the health and appearance of the hands. Sometimes, the application of nail enhancements can beautify deformed nails and discourage the client from biting the nails. However, the bitten, damaged skin should not be treated by a cosmetologist. If the skin is broken or infected, no services can be provided until the area is healed.

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Ampere (AM-Peer), abbreviated A, amp

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Abbreviated A and also known as amp; unit that measures the strength of an electric current. An ampere (AM-Peer), abbreviated A and also known as amp (AMp), is the unit that measures the strength of an electric current. Just as the sink hose must be large enough to carry the amount of water flowing through it, a wire also must be large enough to carry the amount of electricity (amPs) flowing through it. A hair dryer rated at 12 amPs must have a cord that is twice as thick as one rated at 6 amps; otherwise, the cord might overheat and start a fire. A higher amp rating indicates a greater number of electrons and a stronger current 

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volt (VOlT), abbreviated V, voltage (VOl-tij)

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A volt (VOlT), abbreviated V and also known as voltage (VOl-tij), is the unit that measures the pressure or force that pushes electric current forward through a conductor . Car batteries are 12 volts. Normal electric wall sockets that power your hair dryer and curling iron are 120 volts. Most air conditioners and clothes  dryers run on 220 volts. A higher voltage indicates more power.

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LEUCONYCHIA

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Leukonychia spots (loo-koh-NIK-ee-ah SPATS), also known as white spots, are whitish discolorations of the nails, usually caused by minor injury to the nail matrix. They are not a symptom of any vitamin or mineral deficiency. It is a myth that these result from calcium or zinc deficiency. They appear frequently in the nails but do not indicate disease. As the nail continues to grow, the white spots eventually disappear 

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PSUDOMONAS AEROGINOSA 

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In the past, discolorations of the nail plate (especially those between the plate and nail enhancements) were incorrectly referred to as molds. This term should not be used when referring to infections of the fingernails or toenails. The discoloration is usually a bacterial infection such as Pseudomonas aeruginosa, one of several common bacteria that can cause a nail infection, or Staphylococcus aureus. These naturally occurring skin bacteria can grow rapidly to cause an infection if conditions are correct for growth

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secondary colors

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ORANGE, GREEN, VIOLET / PURPLE

A secondary colors is a color obtained be mixing equal parts of two primary colors. The secondary colors are green, orange, and violet. Green is an equal combination of blue and yellow. Orange is an equal combination of red and yellow. Violet is an equal combination of blue and red

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Complementary colors

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Complementary colors are Primary and  secondary colors positioned directly opposite each other on the color wheel. Complementary colors include blue and orange, red and green, and yellow and violet. Complementary colors neutralize each other  When formulating haircolor, you will find that it is often your goal to emphasize or distract from skin tones or eye color. you may also want to neutralize  or refine unwanted tones in the hair. understanding complementarycolors will help you choose the correct tone to accomplish these goals. Here is an easy reference guide for color correction:

• When hair is green…use red to balance.

• When hair is red…use green to balance.

• When hair is blue…use orange to balance.

• When hair is orange…use blue to balance.

• When hair is yellow…use violet to balance.

• When hair is violet…use yellow to balance.

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CAPLESS WIGS

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CAPLESS WIGS

Capless wigs, also known as caps, are machine-made from human or artificial hair. The hair is woven into wefts, which are long strips of hair with a threaded edge. Rows of wefts are sewn to elastic strips in a circular pattern to fit the head shape. Capless wigs are more popular than cap wigs as they are ready-to-wear and less expensive.

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EUMELANIN

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EUMELANIN

pheomelanin (fee-oh-MEL-uh-nin), which is red to yellow in color, and eumelanin (yoo-MEL-uh-nin), which is dark brown to black. People with light-colored skin mostly produce pheomelanin, while those with dark-colored skin mostly produce eumelanin. The size of melanin granules varies from one individual to another. 

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MELANIN

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MELANIN

The color of the skin—whether fair, medium, or dark—depends primarily on melanin (MEL-ah-nin), the tiny grains of pigment (coloring matter) that are produced by melanocytes and then deposited into cells in the stratum germinativum layer of the epidermis and the papillary layers of the dermis. The color of the skin is a hereditary trait and varies among races and Nationalities. Genes determine the amount and type of pigment produced in an individual. The body Produces two types of melanin: 

pheomelanin (fee-oh-MEL-uh-nin), which is red to yellow in color, and eumelanin (yoo-MEL-uh-nin), which is dark brown to black. People with light-colored skin mostly produce pheomelanin, while those with dark-colored skin mostly produce eumelanin. The size of melanin granules varies from one individual to another. Melanin helps protect sensitive cells from  the sun’s UV light, but it does not provide enough protection to prevent skin damage. Daily use of a sunscreen with a sun protection factor (SPF) of 15 or higher can help the melanin protect the skin from burning, skin cancer, and premature aging 

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pheomelanin (fee-oh-MEL-uh-nin)

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pheomelanin (fee-oh-MEL-uh-nin), which is red to yellow in color, and eumelanin (yoo-MEL-uh-nin), which is dark brown to black. People with light-colored skin mostly produce pheomelanin, while those with dark-colored skin mostly produce 

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VITILIGO

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Vitiligo (vi-til-EYE-goh) is a hereditary condition that causes hypopigmented spots and splotches on the skin that may be related to thyroid conditions. Skin with vitiligo must be protected from overexposure to the sun

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ONYCHOCRPTOSIS

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ONYCHOCRPTOSIS

Onychocryptosis (ahn-ih-koh-krip-TOH-sis), also known as ingrown nails, can affect either the fingers or toes In this condition, the nail grows into the sides of the living tissue around thenail. The movements of walking can press the soft tissues up against the nail plate, contributing to the problem. If the tissue around the nailplate is not infected, or if the nail is not imbedded in the flesh, you can carefully trim the corner of the nail in a curved shape to relieve the pressure on the nail groove. However, if there is any redness, pain, swelling, or irritation, you may not provide any services. Cosmetologists are not allowed to service ingrown nails. Refer the client to a physician.

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COCCI

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COCCI

 Cocci (KOK-sy) are round-shaped bacteria that appear singly (alone) or in groups

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SPIRILLA

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SPIRILLA

Spirilla (spy-RIL-ah) are spiral or corkscrew-shaped bacteria. They are subdivided into subgroups, such as treponema papillida, which causes syphilis, a sexually transmitted disease  (STD), and borrelia burgdorferi, which causes  Lyme disease 

Spirillum in microbiology refers to a bacterium with a cell body that twists like a spiral. It is the third distinct bacterial cell shape type Besides coccus and bacillus cells 

Syphilis, rat bite fever, and Sodoku are just three diseases that Spirilla bacteria can cause. Usually, the diseases that this bacterium causes are considerably serious

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ATRIUM

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ATRIUM

Upper, thin-walled chamber of the heart through which blood is pumped to the ventricles. There is a right atrium and a left atrium.

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Ventricles

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Ventricles

The ventricle (VEN-truh-kul) is a lower, thick-walled chamber that receives blood from the atrium. There is a right ventricle and a left ventricle. 

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EFFLEURAGE

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Effleurage (EF-loo-rahzh) is a light, continuous stroking movement applied in a slow, rhythmic manner with the fingers (digital effleurage) or the palms (palmar effleurage). No pressure is used. The palms work the large surfaces, and the cushions of the 

fingertips work the small surfaces, such as those around the eyes . Effleurage is frequently used on the forehead, face, scalp, back, shoulder, neck, chest, arms, and hands for its soothing and relaxing effects. Every massage should  begin and end with effleurage.

When performing effleurage, hold your whole hand loosely, and keep your wrist and fingers flexible. Curve your fingers slightly to conform to the shape of the area being massaged, with just the cushions of the fingertips touching the skin. Do not use the ends of the fingertips. They are pointier than the cushions, and will cause the effleurage to be less smooth. Also, the free edges  of your fingernails may scratch the client’s skin.

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TAPOTEMENT

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Tapotement (tah-POH-te-ment), also known as percussion (pur-KUSH-un), consists of short quick tapping, slapping, and hacking movements. This form of massage is the most stimulating and should be applied with care and discretion. Tapotement movements tone the muscles and impart a healthy glow to the area being massaged. In facial massage, use only light digital tapping. Bring the fingertips owdn against the skin in rapid succession. Your fingers must be flexible enough  to create an even force over the area being massaged. In slapping movements, keeping your wrists flexible allows your palms to come in contact with the skin in light, firm, and rapid slapping movements. One hand follows the other. With each slapping stroke, lift the flesh slightly.

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Pétrissage

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(PEH-treh-sahj) is a kneading movement performed by lifting, squeezing, and pressing the tissue with a light, firm pressure. Pétrissage offers deeper stimulation to the muscles, nerves, and skin glands, and improves circulation. These kneading movements are usually limited to the back, shoulders, and arms. Although typically used on larger surface areas such as the arms and shoulders, digital kneading can also be used on the cheeks with light pinching movements . The pressure should be light but firm. When grasping and releasing the fleshy parts, the movements must be rhythmic and never jerky.

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Tesla/High Frequency/Violet Ray Current

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The Tesla high-frequency current (TES-luh Hy-FREE-kwen-see KuR-ent), also known as violet ray, is a thermal or heat-producing current with a high rate of oscillation or vibration that is commonly used for scalp and facial treatments. Tesla current does not produce muscle contractions, and the effects can be either stimulating or soothing, depending on the method of application. The electrodes are made from either glass or metal, and only one electrode is used to perform a service The benefits of the Tesla high-frequency current are:

• Stimulates blood circulation

            • increases elimination and absorption

• increases skin metabolism

• improves germicidal action

• Relieves skin congestion

 As you learn more about facials and treatments, you will become familiar with the term contraindication, a condition that requires avoiding certain treatments, procedures, or products to prevent undesirable side effects.

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Pediculosis

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Pediculosis capitis (puh-dik-yuh-LOH-sis KAP-ih-tis) is the infestationof the hair and scalp with head lice .As these parasites feed on the scalp, it begins to itch. If the scalp is scratched, it can cause an infection. Head lice are transmitted from one person to another by contact with infested hats, combs, brushes, and other personal articles. You can distinguish head lice from dandruff flakes by looking closely at the scalp with a magnifying glass.

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Tinea capitis

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                                    RINGWORD OF THE HEAD

Tinea capitis is another type of fungal infection characterized by red papules, or spots, at the opening of the hair follicles The patches spread, and the hair becomes brittle. Hair often breaks off, leaving only a stump, or the hair may be shed from the enlarged open follicle.

Tinea (TIN-ee-uh) is the technical term for ringworm. It is characterized by itching, scales, and, sometimes, painful circular lesions. Several patches may be present at one time. Tinea is caused by a fungal organism and not a parasite, as the old-fashioned term ringworm seems to suggest. All forms of tinea are contagious and can be easily transmitted from  one person to another. Infected skin scales or hairs that contain the fungi are known to spread the disease. Bathtubs, swimming pools, and uncleaned personal articles are also sources of transmission. Practicing approved cleaning and disinfection procedures will help prevent the  spread of this disease in the salon.

"Athletes Foot, Jock Itch and Ringworm". Cleveland Clinic. Retrieved 2012-07-25. "Ringworm is a skin rash caused by a fungus; it is not caused by a worm. (Fungus is a plant-like structure.) Health care providers call ringworm "tinea." "Athlete's foot" (tinea pedis) and "jock itch" (tinea cruris) are types of ringworm."

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TINEA UNGIUM

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TINEA UNGIUM

Onychomycosis (also known as "dermatophytic onychomycosis," or "tinea unguium" means fungal infection of the nail. It is the most common disease of the nails and constitutes about a half of all nail abnormalities. This condition may affect toenails or fingernails, but toenail infections are particularly common. The prevalence of onychomycosis is about 6–8% in the adult population.

Onychomycosis (ahn-ih-koh-my-KOH-sis) is a fungal infection of the natural nail plate . A common form is whitish patches that can be scraped off the surface of the nail. Another common form of this infection shows long whitish or pale yellowish streaks within the nail plate. A third common form causes the free edge of the nail to crumble and may even affect the entire plate. These types of infection often invade the free edge of the nail and spread toward the matrix.

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Dermis

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Dermis

The dermis (DUR-mis), also known as derma (DUR-muh), corium (KOH-ree-um), cutis (KYOO-tis), or true skin, is the underlying or inner layer of the skin. The dermis extends to form the subcutaneous tissue. The highly sensitive dermis layer of connective tissue is about 25 times thicker than the epidermis. Within its structure, there are numerous blood vessels, lymph vessels, nerves, sudoriferous (sweat) glands, sebaceous (oil) glands, and hair follicles, as well as arrector pili muscles. Arrector pili muscles (ah-REK-tohr PY-leh MUS-uls) are the small, involuntary muscles in the base of the hair that cause goose flesh—or goose bumps, as many people call them—and papillae. The dermis is comprised of two layers: the papillary (superficial layer) and the reticular (deeper layer).

•  The papillary layer (PAP-uh-lair-ee LAY-ur) is the outer layer of the dermis, directly beneath the epidermis. Here you will find the dermal papillae

(DUR-mul puh-PIL-eye) (singular: dermal papilla; DUR-mul puh-PIL-uh), which are small, cone-shaped elevations at the base of the hair follicles. Some papillae contain looped capillaries, and others contain small epidermal structures called tactile corpuscles (TAK-tile KOR-pusuls), with nerve endings that are sensitive to touch and pressure. This layer also contains melanocytes, the pigment-producing cells. The top of the papillary layer where it joins the epidermis is called the epidermal–dermal junction(ep-ih-DUR-mul-DUR-mul JUNK-shun).

•  The reticular layer (ruh-TIK-yuh-lur LAY-ur) is the deeper layer of the dermis that supplies the skin with all of its oxygen and nutrients. It contains the following structures within its network:

 • Fat cells  

 • Sudoriferous (sweat) glands

• Blood vessels

• Hair follicles

• Lymph vessels

• Arrector pili muscles

• Sebaceous (oil) glands

• Nerve endings

Subcutaneous tissue (sub-kyoo-TAY-nee-us TISH-oo), also known as adipose tissue (AD-uh-pohs TISH-oo) or subcutis tissue (sub- KYOO-tis TISH-oo), is the fatty tissue found below the dermis. It gives smoothness and contour to the body, contains fats for use as energy, and also acts as a protective cushion for the skin. Subcutaneous tissue varies in thickness according to the age, gender, and general health of the individual

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THE LEVEL SYSTEM

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THE LEVEL SYSTEM 

Level is the unit of measurement used to identify the lightness or darkness of a color. level is the saturation, density, or concentration of color. The level of color answers the following question:

How much color? 

The level system is a system that colorists use to determine the lightness or darkness of a hair color. Haircolor levels are arranged on a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being the darkest and 10 the lightest. Although the names for the color levels may vary among manufacturers, the important thing is being able to identify the degrees of lightness to darkness (depth)  in each level.

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croquignole

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There are two basic methods of wrapping the hair around the perm rod: croquignole perm wrap and spiral perm wrap.

A croquignole perm wrap (KROH-ken-ohl) is wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers. Because the hair is wrapped perpendicular to the length of the rod, each new layer of hair is wrapped on top of the previous layer, increasing the size (diameter) of the curl with each new overlapping layer, because each layer is rolled on top of the previous ones. This produces a tighter curl at the ends, and a larger curl at the scalp. longer, thicker hair increases this effect. in a spiral perm wrap the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, like the stripes on a candy cane. A spiral perm wrap may partially overlay the preceding layers. As long as the angle remains constant, any overlay will be uniform along the length of the rod and the strand of hair. This wrapping technique causes the size (diameter) of the curl to remain 

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CARBUNCLE

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A carbuncle (KAHR-bung-kul) is an inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue caused by staphylococci. It is similar to a furuncle but is larger. A boil, also known as a furuncle is a skin abscess, a painful bump that forms under the skin - it is full of puss. A carbuncle is collection of boils that develop under the skin. When bacteria infect hair follicles they can swell up and turn into boils. Such abscesses respond to hot packs and lancing, rather than antibiotics, experts say. Antibiotics may be used if the infection spreads into a deeper layer of skin. A boil, also called a furuncle, is a deep folliculitis, infection of the hair follicle. It is most commonly caused by infection by the bacterium Staphylococcus aureus, resulting in a painful swollen area on the skin caused by an accumulation of pus and dead tissue.[1] Individual boils clustered together are called carbuncles.[2] Most human infections are caused by coagulase-positive S. aureus strains, notable for the bacteria's ability to produce coagulase, an enzyme that can clot blood. Almost any organ system can be infected by S. aureus

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FURUNCLE

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FURUNCLE

 A furuncle (FYOO-rung-kul) is the technical term for a boil, an acute, localized bacterial infection of the hair follicle that produces constant pain. It is limited to a specific area and produces a pustule perforated by a hair.

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PTERYGUIM

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PTERYGUIM

Nail Pteryguim (teh-RIJ-ee-um) is an abnormal condition that occurs when the skin is stretched by the nail plate. This disorder is usually caused by serious injury, such as burns, or an adverse skin reaction to chemical nail enhancement products. The terms cuticle and pterygium do not designate the same thing, and they should never be used interchangeably. Nail pterygium is abnormal and is caused by damage to the eponychium or hyponychium. Do not treat nail pterygium and never push the extension of skin back with an instrument. Doing so will cause more injury to the tissues and will make the condition worse. The gentle massage of conditioning oils or creams into the affected area may be beneficial. If this condition becomes irritated, painful, or shows signs of infection, recommend that the client see a physician for examination and proper treatment

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CORTEX

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CORTEX

The cortex is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross-linked by three types of side bonds: disulfide, salt, and hydrogen. Side bonds are responsible for the elasticity and incredible strength of the hair. Altering these three types of side bonds is what makes wet setting, thermal styling, permanent waving, curl re-forming, and chemical  hair relaxing possible.

Hair is composed of the following three major components:

• The cuticle which is the outermost layer of the hair. it protects the interior cortex layer and contriubtes up to 20 ercent of the overall strength of the hair.

• The cortex which is the middle layer and gives the hair the majority of its strength and elasticity. A healthy cortex contributes about 80 percent to the overall strength of the hair. it contains the natural pigment called melanin that determines hair color. Melanin granules are scattered between the cortex cells like chips in a chocohate chip cookie.

• The medulla which is the innermost layer of the hair. it is sometimes absent from the hair and does not play a role in the haircoloring process.

COLLAGEN

EXCORIATION

Pityriasis steatoides

 Pityriasis steatoides

(pit-ih-RY-uh-sus_ stee-uh-TOY-deez) is a more severe case of dandruff characterized by an accumulation of greasy or waxy scales, mixed with sebum, that stick to the scalp in crusts.  

Pityriasis capitis simplex

(pit-ih-RY-uh-sus  _KAP-ih-tis_ SIM-pleks) is the technical term for classic dandruff that is characterized by scalp irritation, large flakes, and an itchy scalp. The scales may attach to the scalp in masses, scatter loosely in the hair, or fall to the shoulders. Regular use of antidandruff shampoos, conditioners, and topical lotions are the best treatment.

Pityriasis (pit-ih-RY-uh-sus) is the technical term for dandruff, which is characterized by the excessive production and accumulation of skin cells. Instead of the normal, one-at-a-time shedding of tiny individual skin cells, dandruff is the shedding of an accumulation of large visible clumps of skin cells. Although the cause of dandruff has been debated for over 150 years, current research confirms that dandruff is the result of a fungus called malassezia (mal-uh-SEEZ-ee-uh). malassezia is a naturally occurring fungus that is present on all human skin but causes the symptoms of dandruff when it grows out of control. Some individuals are also more susceptible to malassezia’s irritating effects. Factors such as stress, age, hormones, and poor hygiene can cause the fungus to multiply and dandruff symptoms to worsen.

SCABIES

SCABIES

Scabies (SKAY-beez) is also a contagious skin disease and is caused by the itch mite, which burrows under the skin. Contagious diseases and conditions caused by parasites should only be treated by a doctor. 

 DEPILITORY

DIPULATION

DEPILITORY

A depilatory is a substance, usually a caustic alkali preparation, used for the temporary removal of superfluous hair by dissolving it at the  skin’s surface. it contains detergents to strip the sebum from the hair and adhesives to hold the chemicals to the hair shaft for the five to ten minutes necessary to remove the hair. During the application time, the hair expands and the disulfide bonds break. Finally, such chemicals as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, thioglycolic acid, or calcium thioglycolate destroy the disulfide bonds. These chemicals turn the hair into a soft, jelly-like mass that can be scraped from the skin. Although depilatories are not commonly used in salons, you should be familiar with them in the event that your clients have used them.

 Immiscible

Immiscible (im-IS-uh-bul) liquids are not capable of being mixed together to form stable solutions. Water and oil are examples of immiscible liquids. These substances can be mixed together, but they will separate when left sitting still. When immiscible liquids are combined, they form suspensions. 

MILIA

Milia (MIL-ee-uh) are benign, keratin-filled cysts that appear just under the epidermis and have no visible opening. They resemble small sesame seeds and are almost always perfectly round. They are commonly associated with newborn babies but can appear on the skin of people of all ages. They are usually found around the eyes, cheeks, and forehead, and they appear as small, whitish masses. Depending on the state, milia can be treated in the salon or spa.

 Pityriasis capitis simplex

(pit-ih-RY-uh-sus  _KAP-ih-tis_ SIM-pleks) is the technical term for classic dandruff that is characterized by scalp irritation, large flakes, and an itchy scalp. The scales may attach to the scalp in masses, scatter loosely in the hair, or fall to the shoulders. Regular use of antidandruff shampoos, conditioners, and topical lotions are the best treatment.

Pityriasis (pit-ih-RY-uh-sus) is the technical term for dandruff, which is characterized by the excessive production and accumulation of skin cells. Instead of the normal, one-at-a-time shedding of tiny individual skin cells, dandruff is the shedding of an accumulation of large visible clumps of skin cells. Although the cause of dandruff has been debated for over 150 years, current research confirms that dandruff is the result of a fungus called malassezia (mal-uh-SEEZ-ee-uh). malassezia is a naturally occurring fungus that is present on all human skin but causes the symptoms of dandruff when it grows out of control. Some individuals are also more susceptible to malassezia’s irritating effects. Factors such as stress, age, hormones, and poor hygiene can cause the fungus to multiply and dandruff symptoms to worsen.

•  Pityriasis steatoides

(pit-ih-RY-uh-sus_ stee-uh-TOY-deez) is a more severe case of dandruff characterized by an accumulation of greasy or waxy scales, mixed with sebum, that stick to the scalp in crusts. 

An electric current (ee-lEK-trik KuR-unt) is the flow of electricity along a conductor. All materials can be classified as conductors or nonconductors (insulators), depending on the ease with which an electric current can be transmitte through them. A conductor  

 (kahn-DuK-tur) is any material that conducts electricity. Most metals are good conductors. This means that electricity will pass through the material easily. Copper is a particularly good conductor and is used in electric wiring and electric motors. pure (distilled) water is a poor conductor, but the ions usually found in ordinary water, such as tap water or a river or a lake, make it a good conductor. This explains why you should not swim in a lake during an electrical storm

An emulsion (ee-MUL-shun) is an unstable physical mixture of two or more immiscible substances (substances that normally will not stay blended) plus a special ingredient called an emulsifier. An emulsifier (ee-MUL-suh-fy-ur) is an ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniform and fairly stable blend. Emulsions are considered to be a special type of suspension because they can separate, but the separation usually happens very slowly over a long period of time. An example of an emulsion is hand lotion.

Colloids

Emulsion* A blend of two liquid where one forms tiny droplets which are evenly dispersed in the other. It is not strictly a mixture, because the two liquids do not actually mix. The technical term for combinations of this kind is a colloid*.