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The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the |
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Polar regions off antartica |
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The ratio of wave height to wavelength is called the |
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The time it takes for a fullwave to pass a stationary object is called the wave |
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Celerity of deep water waves is equal to |
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wavelength divided by the period |
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Celerity of a wave train is equal to |
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Half the celerity of individual waves |
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The circular motion of water molecules extends to a depth that is equal to |
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A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is greater than or equal to |
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A shallow water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to |
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The celerity of a shallow water wave is proportional to |
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the speed of a deep water wave is proportional to |
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the high of a wave depends upon |
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fetch, wind duration, and wind speed |
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the distance over which wind blows without interruption |
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an internal wave might form |
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at a density boundary within the ocean |
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as a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height |
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increases and wavelength decreases |
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Constructive interference results in larger waves while destructive interference produces |
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a wave will finally break when |
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the ratio of wave height to water depth equals 3:4 |
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waves that are moving faster than local wind and are sorted out by wavelength are called |
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waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming a curling crest over an air pocket are called |
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if a surfer wishes to have a really love ride, what type of wave should he or she look for? |
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A tsunami may result from |
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tectonic activity on the seafloor |
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the first wave that forms when the wind begins to blow across the ocean is called |
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uniform, symmetrical deep water waves that form when wind speed diminishes around the margin of the ocean basin |
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In general, the restoring force for waves is |
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in wave literature, the term sea refers to |
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area where waves are generated by a storm |
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When the wave approaches the shore its period |
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sorting of waves by their wavelengths is |
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spilling breakers are the result of |
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plunging breakers are the result of |
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moderately sloping seafloors |
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surging breakers are the result of |
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steepest sloping sea floors |
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beaufort wind scare relates to |
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two forces that cause tides are |
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centrifugal and gravitational |
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the center of mass of the earth-moon system is called the |
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the tide-generating force varies |
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inversely with the cube of the distance between the objects |
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the tide generating foce varies |
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directly with the product of the object masses |
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compared with a solar day, a lunar day is |
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The angular distance of the orbital plane of the sun or moon above or below the earth’s equatorial plane is called the |
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has very high high tides and very low low tides |
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low high tides and high low tides |
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when the moon is at quadrature |
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when the earth is at its greatest distance from the sun, it is said to be at |
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The side of the earth that faces the moon experiences a high tide, the side of the earth that is opposite from the moon with have a |
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the vertical difference between high and low tides is called the |
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Tidal ranges will be the greatest when the earth and the moon are at |
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the center of an open ocean tidal system is called an |
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an area that experiences semidiurnal tides will have |
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two high tides and two low tides of nearly equal height daily |
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an area that experiences diurnal tides will have |
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one high tide and one low tide daily |
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The most common tidal pattern around the world are |
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The Bay of Fundy is well known for which tidal characteristic |
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The wave formed on a river by the flood tide current is called a |
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Water flowing out of an enclosed basin due to the tides is called |
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Water flowing into an enclosed basin due to the tides is called |
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Cotidal lines connect points on the rotary wave that experience |
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high tide at the same time |
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Corange circles are lines connecting points that experience the same |
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Amphidormic systems rotate ____ in the southern and ___ in the northern |
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clock wise and counter clockwise |
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In an amphidromic system, the wave progresses about a ____ (novertical displacement) with the ___ (maximum vertical displacement) rotating about the basins edges |
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Tidal resonance occurs if the period of the basin is similar to |
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The term trophic in the context of ecology refers to |
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