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TGHA COSMO Chemical Texturizing
Chemical Texturizing Chapter 12
71
Cosmetology
Not Applicable
02/14/2014

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Term
The chemical process of making straight hair curly is called ______.
Definition
Permanent waving
Term
This is the main ingredient in acid waves.
Definition
Glycerol Monothioglycolate
Term
This is the pH of Acid waves.
Definition
6.9-7.2
Term
Applying perm solution, rinsing perm solution and neutralizing are all steps in what?
Definition
The chemical phase of perming.
Term
What are croquinole and spiral?
Definition
The two basic methods of wrapping a perm rod.
Term
The pH of neutralizer.
Definition
2.5-7
Term
When this is applied it rebonds and restores disulfide bonds the disulfide bonds.
Definition
Neutralizer
Term
What is the area between two partings?
Definition
Base
Term
This is the pH of alkaline waves
Definition
8.0-9.5
Term
What are the four basic tool positions?
Definition
on base, off base, half-off base, underdirected.
Term
This causes the hair to swell during an alkaline wave
Definition
Perm Solution
Term
This wave should be processed without heat or tension.
Definition
Alkaline wave
Term
You must rinse perm solution before applying ______.
Definition
Neutralizer
Term
This is the ability of hair to absorb moisture.
Definition
Porosity
Term
This is the ability of hair to be stretched and returned to its original shape.
Definition
Elasticity
Term
Density is ________.
Definition
The number of hair fibers per square inch.
Term
What do you use to protect a clients skin while using chemicals?
Definition
Protective cream
Term

What determines the size and shape of the new curl configuration?

Definition
The size of the perm rod
Term
Draping prevents ______.
Definition
damage to clothing
Term
What will determine how your clients hair will react to chemicals?
Definition
Test curl
Term
This bond is effected by permanent waving.
Definition
Disulfide bonds
Term
What are three common chemicals found in neutralizers
Definition
Sodium bromate, sodium perborate, hydrogen peroxide
Term
What chemical processes change the structure of hair?
Definition
Perming, Relaxing, Curl Reforming
Term
What is the main ingredient found in alkaline waves?
Definition
Thioglycolic acid
Term
This lowers the pH and rebonds curl patterns.
Definition
Neutralizing Solution
Term
An end paper folded in half is the ________ technique
Definition
Bookend
Term
These rods produce uniform curls
Definition
Straight
Term
Neutralizer will dilute and curls will weaken if _______.
Definition
Water is left in the end papers
Term
Tool Position and Base control are determined by _______.
Definition
The size of the base and the angle the hair is held while wrapping
Term
If your tool position is underdirected, how big must your base size be?
Definition
at least 1 1/2 times the size of the tool.
Term
The 9-block pattern is also called _______.
Definition
the rectangle wrap.
Term
A perimeter perm is also called the ________.
Definition
Drop crown wrap
Term
Disulfide bonds are found in what layer of the hair?
Definition
The Cortex
Term
What is another name for disulfide bonds?
Definition
S-S Bonds
Term
Heat, Tension and Perm solution break the disulfide bond in ________ waves.
Definition
Acid
Term
During which waves does the protein structure soften so it can shift?
Definition
Acid, Alkaline and Thio Free.
Term
This wave should NOT be used on porous or damaged hair.
Definition
Alkaline
Term
Because of their high pH, these waves process quickly.
Definition
Alkaline
Term
These waves use NO heat
Definition
Alkaline
Term
Because these waves cause minimal swelling, they must be wrapped with tension.
Definition
Acid
Term
If neutralizer is left on too long, _______ will occur.
Definition
damage.
Term
If hair has been color treated, is porous, or has been permed before use this wave.
Definition
Acid.
Term
Texture is classified as _____, _____ or _______.
Definition
Fine, medium or Coarse.
Term
Bricklay patterning is used to avoid ______ while wrapping.
Definition
splits
Term
Spiral wrapping is used on longer hair and produces this type of curl pattern.
Definition
elongated
Term
Underprocessing will produce _______ or ______ curls.
Definition
Weak or limp
Term
If hair is overprocessed, curls may be ______.
Definition
frizzy
Term
If hair is wrapped with too much tension, what may happen?
Definition
breakage
Term
No-base chemical relaxers contain this to protect the scalp during relaxing services.
Definition
Oil and Conditioning agents
Term
What are Ammonium thioglycolate relaxers called?
Definition
"thio"
Term
Texture, elasticity and porosity determine _______ and what relaxer strength to use.
Definition
Processing time
Term
Following a sodium hydroxide relaxer, what type of color may be used?
Definition
Semi-permanent
Term
An elliptical follicle will cause ______.
Definition
Curly hair.
Term
When curl is reduced by ____%, this is optimum relaxing.
Definition
80%
Term
Petroleum is used in ________ to protect the skin and scalp.
Definition
base creams
Term
What relaxing pattern would you use if the sides and nape are tapered, the hairline is frizzy or you need to control certain areas?
Definition
a Partial relaxer
Term
This technique relaxes curl by 50%
Definition
Curl diffusion
Term
What does neutralizing shampoo do after a relaxer?
Definition
locks hair into its straight shape
Term
Neutralizing shampoos often contain
Definition
sodium bromate
Term
Fine textured hair has more _____ and less ______.
Definition
more cuticle and less cortex
Term
When doing a virgin sodium hydroxide relaxer, where is relaxer applied first?
Definition
the most resistant area
Term
What size partings are used for a relaxing service?
Definition
1/4"
Term
How often should you retouch a relaxer service?
Definition
When there is sufficient amount of new growth
Term
This changes overly curly hair into curly or wavy hair
Definition
Curl reforming
Term
What does a rearranger do?
Definition
Reduces the natural curl in a curl reformation
Term
What is the main ingredient found in rearrangers?
Definition
Ammonium thioglycolate
Term
The hair will not have enough bonds to hold a curl pattern if
Definition
hair is over relaxed with rearranger
Term
When wrapping a curl reformation, use this wrapping pattern
Definition
rectangle, bricklay or contour pattern
Term
If rearranger is overlapped, this can occur
Definition
breakage
Term
Absolutely do NOT perform a Sodium hydroxide relaxer over hair that has been treated with ______.
Definition
Ammonium thioglycolate
Term
Frizzy, limp, dry curls may appear after a curl reformation if there is _______.
Definition
A lack of moisture
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