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What properties are common to all protein fibers? |
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Definition
REsiliencey Hygroscopic Weaker when wet specific gravity harmed by alkali harmed by oxidizing agents harmed by dry heat flame resistance |
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Wrinkle resistant, wrinkles hang out btw wearing, goes back to original size and shape |
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absorbs moisture w/o feeling wet, comfortable in cool damp climates and good in interiors |
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be careful w/ handle during wash, wool loses strength, 40% when wet, silk loses 15-20% when wet |
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fabrics feel lighter than cellulosics of the same thickness (diameter) |
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perpiration will weaken fibers, use woolite when washing, be careful when cleaning |
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harmed by oxidizing agents |
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shouldn't use chlorine beach-it will damage (dissolve) the fibers, sunlight causes white fabrics to yellow |
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always use steam when pressing; w/o steam it becomes very brittle and will scorch easily |
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don't burn readily, self extinguish, smells like burning hair |
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International Silk Association of U.S. Slogan |
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Definition
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Explain the difference between cultivated silk and wild silk |
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Definition
has luster, nice drape, high strength, absorbancy |
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Controlled production; Sericulture -begins w/ silk moth
-Filament fiber, feed on mulberry leaves |
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Broken filament has to sold as a staple fiber grown in wild, not controlled- worms feed on oak and cherry leaves
Brown is the most common color |
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Product of the wild silkworms; most cmomon wild silk fabric, charger, and has darker fibers and can't be bleached |
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What is the protein in silk? |
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Definition
Fibroin
-burnt hair -identification on microscope-not regular like manufactured fibers, hard to tell |
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Definition
When 2 silkworms spin their cucoons together, yarn is irregular in diameter (thick and thin areas)
-Used in linen like silk fabrics (Shantung) -Momme ("mummy")- Weight of silk |
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What are some examples of end uses for silk? |
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Definition
-Apparel and interiors (home furnishings), sheets, used in medical industry, prosthetic arteries
Weights of silk = Chiffon (light)--> Brocades and Velvets (heavy) |
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used to be wighted w/ tin salts- gave more body and weight |
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used to be wighted w/ tin salts- gave more body and weight |
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Term
Consider serviceability concepts related to silk: |
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Definition
-Aesthetic: filament (lustrous)/staple (shantung), vibrant colors, varying weights
Durability: strongest natural fiber but loses strength when wet
Comfort: good absorbancy; wicks moisture away (moisture will travel along surface of fibers out into environment)
Poor heat conductor: Like wool- it keeps you warm in winter
Weight is light
Resiliencey- moderate- moderate wrinkling |
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Term
Draw a cross-section of a wool fiber and label the parts |
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Definition
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The Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939 (amended in 1986) protects the textiles industry and consumers. The law requires this information on the label of all wool products (unless exempt such as carpets, rugs & upholstery): |
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Definition
a. Fiber content in terms of % b. Source of fiber c. Name, RN (registered number) or WPL (wool product label) of manufacturer d. country where product was manufactured or processed |
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legally defined as fiber from various animals, sheep, angora, and cashmere goats, camel, alpaca, llama |
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Definition
wool that's never been processed; processed by FTC |
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Definition
comes from animals less than 7 months old, very fine, soft wool b/c it's only the first sheering and the fiber only has 1 cut end. |
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come from worn clothing and cutter scraps
-"garnetted" - shredded back to fibers |
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taken from the pelts of slaughtered sheeps (as a byproduct of the meat from a sheep) |
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What is the protein in wool? |
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Definition
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Definition
fire blanket, rug (take color nicely, put in front of firepleace), sweaters, coats, stadium blanket, socks |
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Definition
swim suit, curtains, sheets, shoes, umbrella |
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Term
Generally, what is the preferred care method for wool? Why? Relate your answers to fiber properties |
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Definition
Dry clean
don't use clorine bleach
get clean before storing them (so moths don't eat holes)
good travelling suit b/c of memory- will bounce back w/ steam shower in bathroom |
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Term
Is wool a good or poor heat conductor? How does it compare to cotton in heat conductivity? |
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Definition
Poor heat conductor- keeps you warm cotton is a good heat conductor |
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Term
Why is wool sometimes considered a luxury, specialty fiber? |
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Definition
-Higher initial cost -Expensive to care for- adds to the initial cost -quality of wool based on finest of the wool, scale structure, color, and cleanliness |
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Consider Serveiceability concepts in relation to wool.. |
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Definition
Aesthetics- wool can be very different in appearance, quality, lustrous or matte, lightweight--heavy weight
Durability- high: due to elongation abrasion resistance and tenacity
Comfort- high-hygroscopic nature of wool
Appearance retention- bounce back in between wearing allign wool to retain shape
care: dry clean |
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Definition
Angora Goat, sheered, blended w/ wool for both apparel and interiors, considered to be one of the most resilient fibers, silk- like luster, white in color, also used for natural looking wigs and hair pieces |
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Definition
Fiber from small goat, used in higher quality apparel, fabrics known for being warm, excellent draping characteristics, soft,
(new fiber called: cashgora-from breeding cashmere and angora goats-fiber is coarser than cashmere and not as lustrous) |
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Definition
2 hump camel, very warm w/o weight, best in sulation of any wool, keeps camel comfy under extreme temperature conditions, good insulator, collect fiber
hair is picked up as it's shed, it's sometimes sheared |
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angora rabbit, used for sweaters, suit, fine, fluffy, soft, doesn't take dye well, blended w/ wool since it's not as cohesive |
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must ox from Alaska, rare and luxurious fiber, shed from musk ox, known for eskimo women to knit qiviut fiber into scarves and other products and uses patterns native to their vilalges, like cashmere for texture, but warmer |
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most fibers are natural colors, white brown, gray, black, soft fibers used in appare, difficult to dye, clothing, hard crafts and rugs |
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Softest finest and rarest and most expensive of the textile fibers, short, lustrous, and light cinnamon in color, used to have to kill the vicuna to get their fiber, but in 2006 they are now protected, now they catch them and shear them only every 2 years. |
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2 types of specialty hair fibers |
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Definition
Course long outerhair- used in upholstery, coats, etc
soft, fine undercoat (most valueable)- Used in apparel, sweaters, suits, dresses, interiors |
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Environmental Impact of wool: |
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Definition
Natural fibers Organic Wool Sheep graze, which causes erosion the water and energy it takes to feed sheep animal rights concerns |
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Silk has been produced for over ____ years |
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Definition
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China produces over _____% of silk in the world? |
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Silk is the only natural fiber that comes in _____ form. |
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Definition
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In order for a silk filament to remain whole and not broken, what must occur? |
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Definition
Have to boil cuccoons so they don't the worms don't break out and break the silk strand |
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Term
Spider Silk characteristics |
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Definition
strong, elastic, and lightweight |
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Term
What are environmental impacts of producing silk? |
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Definition
(natural doesn't always mean less environmental impact)
animal rights activists get pissed when the cuccoons are boiled to kill the worm
labor intensive
lots of water is used
natural and renewable resource |
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What is the highest quality sheep wool? |
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