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Textiles
Natural Protein Fibers
51
Other
Undergraduate 3
09/26/2011

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Term
What properties are common to all protein fibers?
Definition
REsiliencey
Hygroscopic
Weaker when wet
specific gravity
harmed by alkali
harmed by oxidizing agents
harmed by dry heat
flame resistance
Term
Resiliency
Definition
Wrinkle resistant, wrinkles hang out btw wearing, goes back to original size and shape
Term
hygroscopic
Definition
absorbs moisture w/o feeling wet, comfortable in cool damp climates and good in interiors
Term
weaker when wet
Definition
be careful w/ handle during wash, wool loses strength, 40% when wet, silk loses 15-20% when wet
Term
Specific gravity
Definition
fabrics feel lighter than cellulosics of the same thickness (diameter)
Term
harmed by alkali
Definition
perpiration will weaken fibers, use woolite when washing, be careful when cleaning
Term
harmed by oxidizing agents
Definition
shouldn't use chlorine beach-it will damage (dissolve) the fibers, sunlight causes white fabrics to yellow
Term
hearmed by dry heat
Definition
always use steam when pressing; w/o steam it becomes very brittle and will scorch easily
Term
flame resistance
Definition
don't burn readily, self extinguish, smells like burning hair
Term
International Silk Association of U.S. Slogan
Definition
"Only silk is silk"
Term
Explain the difference between cultivated silk and wild silk
Definition
has luster, nice drape, high strength, absorbancy
Term
Cultivated silk
Definition
Controlled production; Sericulture
-begins w/ silk moth

-Filament fiber, feed on mulberry leaves
Term
Wild Silk
Definition
Broken filament has to sold as a staple fiber grown in wild, not controlled- worms feed on oak and cherry leaves

Brown is the most common color
Term
Tussah Silk
Definition
Product of the wild silkworms; most cmomon wild silk fabric, charger, and has darker fibers and can't be bleached
Term
What is the protein in silk?
Definition
Fibroin

-burnt hair
-identification on microscope-not regular like manufactured fibers, hard to tell
Term
What is "Duppioni" silk?
Definition
When 2 silkworms spin their cucoons together, yarn is irregular in diameter (thick and thin areas)

-Used in linen like silk fabrics (Shantung)
-Momme ("mummy")- Weight of silk
Term
What are some examples of end uses for silk?
Definition
-Apparel and interiors (home furnishings), sheets, used in medical industry, prosthetic arteries

Weights of silk = Chiffon (light)--> Brocades and Velvets (heavy)
Term
Shattered silk:
Definition
used to be wighted w/ tin salts- gave more body and weight
Term
Shattered silk:
Definition
used to be wighted w/ tin salts- gave more body and weight
Term
Consider serviceability concepts related to silk:
Definition
-Aesthetic: filament (lustrous)/staple (shantung), vibrant colors, varying weights

Durability: strongest natural fiber but loses strength when wet

Comfort: good absorbancy; wicks moisture away (moisture will travel along surface of fibers out into environment)

Poor heat conductor: Like wool- it keeps you warm in winter

Weight is light

Resiliencey- moderate- moderate wrinkling
Term
Draw a cross-section of a wool fiber and label the parts
Definition
round- not lima bean
Term
The Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939 (amended in 1986) protects the textiles industry and consumers. The law requires this information on the label of all wool products (unless exempt such as carpets, rugs & upholstery):
Definition
a. Fiber content in terms of %
b. Source of fiber
c. Name, RN (registered number) or WPL (wool product label) of manufacturer
d. country where product was manufactured or processed
Term
Wool
Definition
legally defined as fiber from various animals, sheep, angora, and cashmere goats, camel, alpaca, llama
Term
virgin wol
Definition
wool that's never been processed; processed by FTC
Term
Lamb's wool
Definition
comes from animals less than 7 months old, very fine, soft wool b/c it's only the first sheering and the fiber only has 1 cut end.
Term
Recycled wool
Definition
come from worn clothing and cutter scraps

-"garnetted" - shredded back to fibers
Term
Sheared wool
Definition
removed from live sheep
Term
Pulled Wool
Definition
taken from the pelts of slaughtered sheeps (as a byproduct of the meat from a sheep)
Term
What is the protein in wool?
Definition
Keratin
Term
Good end uses for wool:
Definition
fire blanket, rug (take color nicely, put in front of firepleace), sweaters, coats, stadium blanket, socks
Term
Poor end uses for wool
Definition
swim suit, curtains, sheets, shoes, umbrella
Term
Generally, what is the preferred care method for wool? Why? Relate your answers to fiber properties
Definition
Dry clean

don't use clorine bleach

get clean before storing them (so moths don't eat holes)

good travelling suit b/c of memory- will bounce back w/ steam shower in bathroom
Term
Is wool a good or poor heat conductor? How does it compare to cotton in heat conductivity?
Definition
Poor heat conductor- keeps you warm
cotton is a good heat conductor
Term
Why is wool sometimes considered a luxury, specialty fiber?
Definition
-Higher initial cost
-Expensive to care for- adds to the initial cost
-quality of wool based on finest of the wool, scale structure, color, and cleanliness
Term
Consider Serveiceability concepts in relation to wool..
Definition
Aesthetics- wool can be very different in appearance, quality, lustrous or matte, lightweight--heavy weight

Durability- high: due to elongation abrasion resistance and tenacity

Comfort- high-hygroscopic nature of wool

Appearance retention- bounce back in between wearing allign wool to retain shape

care: dry clean
Term
Mohair
Definition
Angora Goat, sheered, blended w/ wool for both apparel and interiors, considered to be one of the most resilient fibers, silk- like luster, white in color, also used for natural looking wigs and hair pieces
Term
Cashmere
Definition
Fiber from small goat, used in higher quality apparel, fabrics known for being warm, excellent draping characteristics, soft,

(new fiber called: cashgora-from breeding cashmere and angora goats-fiber is coarser than cashmere and not as lustrous)
Term
Camel's Hair
Definition
2 hump camel, very warm w/o weight, best in sulation of any wool, keeps camel comfy under extreme temperature conditions, good insulator, collect fiber

hair is picked up as it's shed, it's sometimes sheared
Term
Angora
Definition
angora rabbit, used for sweaters, suit, fine, fluffy, soft, doesn't take dye well, blended w/ wool since it's not as cohesive
Term
Qiviut
Definition
must ox from Alaska, rare and luxurious fiber, shed from musk ox, known for eskimo women to knit qiviut fiber into scarves and other products and uses patterns native to their vilalges, like cashmere for texture, but warmer
Term
Llama and Alpaca
Definition
most fibers are natural colors, white brown, gray, black, soft fibers used in appare, difficult to dye, clothing, hard crafts and rugs
Term
Vicuna
Definition
Softest finest and rarest and most expensive of the textile fibers, short, lustrous, and light cinnamon in color, used to have to kill the vicuna to get their fiber, but in 2006 they are now protected, now they catch them and shear them only every 2 years.
Term
2 types of specialty hair fibers
Definition
Course long outerhair- used in upholstery, coats, etc

soft, fine undercoat (most valueable)- Used in apparel, sweaters, suits, dresses, interiors
Term
Environmental Impact of wool:
Definition
Natural fibers
Organic Wool
Sheep graze, which causes erosion
the water and energy it takes to feed sheep
animal rights concerns
Term
Silk has been produced for over ____ years
Definition
3000 (long ass time)
Term
China produces over _____% of silk in the world?
Definition
50%
Term
Silk is the only natural fiber that comes in _____ form.
Definition
filament
Term
In order for a silk filament to remain whole and not broken, what must occur?
Definition
Have to boil cuccoons so they don't the worms don't break out and break the silk strand
Term
Spider Silk characteristics
Definition
strong, elastic, and lightweight
Term
What are environmental impacts of producing silk?
Definition
(natural doesn't always mean less environmental impact)

animal rights activists get pissed when the cuccoons are boiled to kill the worm

labor intensive

lots of water is used

natural and renewable resource
Term
What is the highest quality sheep wool?
Definition
merino wool
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