Term
| What is the difference between a generic and a trade name? |
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Definition
Generic: Similar to chemical composition (spandex)
Trade name: Company name given to it
(wants customers to know their name and want their specific product
(Lycra) |
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Term
| What impact has manufactured fibers had on the textile market? |
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Definition
-In the 1920's manufactured fibers consumption in the U.S. was 5%
-Today Manufactured fiber consumption is 83%
-Worldwide it's 64%
Examples:
Apparel lace 100%
Pile Fabrics 100%
Tires 99%
Transporation fabrics 96%
Filtration 96% |
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Term
| What is a manufactured fiber? |
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Definition
-Any fiber made from chemical compounds produced by manufacturers. The original form is not recognizable as a fiber
-manufactured fibers are distinguished by their chemical composition which is the basis for their "generic" names
-"trade" names vs. "generic" names
===ex. All different kinds of polyesters identified by trade names |
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Term
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Definition
-Prepare viscous or syrupy dope
-Extrude dope through spinneret to form fiber
-Solidify fiber by coagulation, evaporation, or cooling
-(refer to page 115) |
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Term
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Definition
| Substance used to form solution |
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Term
| Spinning solution or dope |
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Definition
| Material from which fiber is formed |
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Term
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Definition
| Forcing the dope through tiny holes in spinneret |
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Term
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Definition
| Small platinum or stainless steel nozzle through which the dope is forced |
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Term
| Manufactured Fiber Spinning Methods |
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Definition
Wet Spinning
Dry Spinning
Melt Spinning |
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Term
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Definition
(Acrylic, lyocell, rayon, spandex)
-polymer dissolved by chemicals, spun into bath and coagulated
OLDEST PROCESS |
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Term
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Definition
(Acetate, Acrylic, Modacrylic, Spandex)
-Polymer dissolved by solvent, spun into warm air and solvent evaporates
MAJOR METHOD |
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Term
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Definition
(Nylon, Olefin, Polyester, Saran)
-Polymer is melted, spun into air and cooled |
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Term
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Definition
| Fiber is its simplest form (known as 1st generation fibers |
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Term
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Definition
-Changes of parent fiber relative to properties or chemical composition; engineered specifically for end use; usually sold under a trade name (known as x generation fibers... some are 10th or beyond)
-Most researched and modified is polyester |
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Term
| Common Fiber Modifications |
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Definition
Spinneret modifications
Additives to spinning solution
Molecular Structure and Crystallinity modifications
Modifications in fiber spinning
Complex Modifications |
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Term
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Definition
-Fiber size: usually controlled by size of opening in spnneret; based on end use
-Apparel: less than 7 denier
-Interior textiles: 5-25 denier
-Technical applications: any size (less than 1-several thousand)
-Microfibers: fibers less than 1.0 denier
-Ultrafine fibers: fibers less than 0.3 denier per filament (dpf)
-Nano Fibers: smaller than microfibers; less than 1000 nano fibers
-Fiber shape |
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Term
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Definition
-Changing the cross- sectional shape of the spinneret holes is the easiest way to alter fibers
--Trilobal shape- often used in nylon and polyester (silk-like hand, better wicking, soil- hiding ability)
--Thick and thin fiber types- vary in their diameter along the fibers length (adds texture)
--HOllow or multicellular fibers- provide insulation in cold weather or buoyancy in water |
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Term
| Additives to spinning solution: |
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Definition
Delustering (appear as dark spots or dots under the microscope)
solution dyeing or mass pigmentation
Whiteners and brighteners
antistatic
antibacterial
sunlight resistance
flame resistant |
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Term
| Molecular Structure and Crystallinity modifications |
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Definition
-Low Pilling Fibers
-High-tenacity fibers
-Binder staple
-Low-elongation |
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Term
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Definition
| binding together with other fabrics; heat related |
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Term
| Modifications in Fiber Spinning |
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Definition
-Crimping of fibers for end uses where cover and loft is important
(Blankets, carpets, batting for quilted items; also for stretch and recovery in hosiery and sportswear) |
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Term
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Definition
one fiber incorporates two polymers which are chemically different, physically different or both
==if compenents fall into two different generic classes, the term bicompenent-bigeneric may be used
==An example would be "performance fibers" used in active sportwear... several materials may be combined to produce a product that can wick perspiration away and provide warmth |
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Term
| What is a "regenerated Fiber?" |
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Definition
-Fiber is produced from natural polymers that are not in fibers form. Therefore, processing is done to convert them.
-Rayon, acetate, and lyocell are examples of manufactured cellulosic fibers that have been regenerated from wood pulp (mostly) or cotton linter. |
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Term
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Definition
-1st manufactured fiber
-Initially called "artificial silk"
-Commerical production in U.S. began in 1911 (early 1900's)
-Produced as filament only until 1930's
(very bright and lustrous fiber)
-***1955 break through-- high- wet- modulus (HWM) Rayon production began, also called HP (high Performance) Rayon.
---Improved Rayon |
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Term
| Regular Rayon vs. HWM Rayon |
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Definition
-The main difference is that HWM is stronger and can be machine washed and dried
-Regular viscose rayon gets weaker when wet and experiences progressive shrinkage so products perform better when dry cleaned |
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Term
| Production and Physical Structure |
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Definition
-Produced by Wet Spinning
-Fibers are naturally bright but can be delustered
-Physical Structure |
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Term
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
Lengthwise lines called striations
--Cross section is serrated or indented circular shape which is an advantage in dye absorption due to increased surface area |
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Term
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Definition
| the cross section is more round |
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Term
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Definition
Aesthetics
Durability
Comfort
Appearance Retention
Care |
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Term
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Definition
| Luster, fiber length and diameter can be controlled so rayon can be made into cotton-like, linen-like, wool-like, or silk- like fabrics |
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Term
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Definition
-Regular rayon... poor, weak fiber (loses 50% strength when wet)
-HWM... moderate, stronger than regular rayon |
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Term
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Definition
| Both are comfortable, smooth, soft fabrics... also absorbent so no static |
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Term
| Appearance Retention: Rayon |
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Definition
-Resilency is low
-HWM retains appearance better than viscose |
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Term
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Definition
HWM- washable
Viscose- dry clean |
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Term
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Definition
-Woven fabrics used in apparel and home furnishings (draperies and upholstery)
-Non-woven fabrics where absorbency is important
===industrial wipes, medical supplies (bandages, diapers, sanitary napkins and tampons)
-Dialysis machine filters |
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Term
| Environmental Concerns: Rayon |
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Definition
-Regeneration requires a lot of processing and the chemical contribute to air and water pollution
-loss of trees for wood pulp
-Rayon is biodegradable
-It is not generally recycled |
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Term
| Lyocell (regenerated cellulosic) |
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Definition
-1st new generic fiber in a long time (FTC granted new classification in 1996)
-Development came about due to concern about rayon's negative effect on environment
-Initially marketed as a type of rayon in early 1990's
-MOre like cotton than any other manufactured fiber
-Designers love the way the fabric drapes |
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Term
| Production and Physical Structure |
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Definition
-Produced by wet spinning
-Cross section is more rounded and longitudinal structure and chemical composition as natural cellulose (that's why it's so close with cotton) |
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Term
| Serviceability Concepts of Lyocell |
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Definition
Aesthetics: Luster, length, and diameter can be varied depending on end use
-Durability-GOod, strongest of the cellulosic fibers, more like cotton than rayon
-Comfort- Excellent, absorbency and soft hand are great for skin contact with apparel and home furnishings
-Appearance Retention- Moderate resiliency, good dimensional stability, may pil or get fuzzy over time with harsh abrasion
-Care- Dry clean or machine wash gentile, mildew issues with lyocell |
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Term
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Definition
-Apparel: professional business wear, leotards, hosiery, causal wear
-Home furnishings: upholstery and window treatment fabrics
-Used in blends with cotton, wool, and manufactured fibers
-Industiral end uses:Conveyer belts, filters, medical dressings, etc. |
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Term
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Definition
-Considered to be an "environmentally friendly fiber"
-Wood is harvested from tree farms grown specifically for this end use instead of depleting already already existing forests
-Chemicals used in solvent bath are less harmful to environment than those used for rayon production
-Solvent is recycled efficiently |
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Term
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Definition
-2nd manufactured fiber produced in U.S.- 1924
-Chemically changed cellulose (instead of physically changed cellulose)
-Promoted as a low cost "beauty fiber" known for good draping characteristics
-Low cost/ inexpensive beauty fiber
-1st thermoplastic or heat-sensitive fiber (irons can melt the fiber)
-Fume Fading problem resolved by solution dyeing (changes colors due to environmental or atmospheric pollutants or deodorant)
-Produced by dry spinning |
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Term
| Serviceability Concepts of acetate |
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Definition
-Aesthetics: luster, body, and drape are evident in the beautiful fabrics such as satins, brocades, and taffetas that are made out of acetate
-Durability: poor (acetate is a weak fiber)
-COmfort: Moderate (smooth, slick fabric used for linings of coats and jackets)
--Some static buildup due to low moisure regain
-appearance retention: poor, fabrics made from acetate have low resiliency (wrinkles easily)
-Care: Dry clean; if you wash it, you'll never get the wrinkles out.
-Environmental concerns: similar concerns as rayon processing; acetate does not degrade naturally and is not recylcled |
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Term
| What are the 2 types of bamboo on the market? |
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Definition
Bamboo rayon
Azlon: regenerated protein |
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Term
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Definition
Silk latte- protein and milk
Soy silk- soybean waste |
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Term
| Properties Common to synthetics and importance to consumers |
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Definition
-Heat Sensitive- (care; +if you iron a hole in your top; - heat set pleats or creases)
-Resistant to most chemicals +
-Resistant to moths, fungi and rot +
-Low moisture absorbency -+
-Oleophilic- (difficult to remove oil and grease stains so you have to use dry cleaning agents; attract oil)
-Electrostatic- (static cling; shocks)
-Abrasion resistance good to excellent (acrylics lowest) +
-Strength good to excellent + (ropes)
-Resilience excellent + (good for carpeting)
-Sunlight resistance is good to excellent + (outdoor furniture; indoor/ outdoor carpet; curtins/draperies; nylon modified to improve resistance)
-Flame resistance ranges from poor to excellent
-Density or specific gravity (most synthetics are lightweight+)
-Pilling- (does occur in some synthetics; typically in those that are made of staple fibers (not filament fibers) |
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Term
| How do most synthetic fibers look microsopically? |
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Definition
-Cross sectional Shape: rounded (unless modified)
-Longitudinal Shape: glass rods |
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Term
| How can you determine which fiber you have? |
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Definition
-Solubility testing and burn testing
-Fiber glazing (surface melting and flattening of yarns or fibers when iron is too hot) |
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Term
| How do heat sensitivity, low moisture absorbency, and affinity for oily soil relate to care of synthetic fibers? |
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Definition
-Use shout, Oxy-clean, Tide To-Go
-Oily stain will migrate into the solution and out of garment |
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Term
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Definition
-1st synthetic fiber developed in U.S.
-1939-fiber called nylon 6,6
-Successfully introduced in women's hosiery (pulled off market for war)
-Called the "miracle fiber" due to properties unlike other fibers (stronger and more resistant to abrasion; excellent elasticity; could be heat set; light weight) |
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Term
| What are disadvantages of nylon? |
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Definition
-static buildup
-poor hand
-poor skin contact comfort
-low resistance to sunlight (as problems appeared, the fibers were modified) |
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Term
| What spinning process is used in production of nylon? |
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Definition
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Term
| How does nylon compare to all other fibers in strength? |
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Definition
| superior in regards to strength |
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Term
| How does nylon compare to the natural and manufactured cellulosic fibers in absorbency? |
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Definition
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Term
| Why is nylon called a "color scavenger"? |
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Definition
it picks up color in the wash water
(Washing white lingerie with red cotton t-shirt will probably turn pink) |
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Term
| How does nylon compare to other synthetic fibers in absorbency? |
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Definition
-higher than most
-supplex-wind resistant
-anso
-ultra touch
-silky touch |
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Term
| What are some end uses for nylon? |
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Definition
-Good: hoisery, carpeting, apparel
-Poor: blanket, curtain |
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Term
| No other fiber can compete with ______ in hosiery |
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Definition
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Term
| Major end use of nylon is _______. |
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Definition
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Term
| Nylon's 2nd most important end use is for ___________. |
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Definition
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Term
| Serviceability Concepts of nylon |
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Definition
-Aesthetics: variable due to a multitude of end uses from upholstery and carpets to apparel and sheer hosiery to industrial uses
-Durability: excellent abrasion resistance, tenacity, and elongation
-Comfort: Poor absorbency, moderate thermal retention
-appearance retention: reliliency, elastic recovery and dimensional stability are all excellent
-Care: machine-wash (apparel) (dry extraction method (furnishings)) |
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