lack of seam smoothness, or buckling of fabric along a row of stitches

*can occur in all price lines

*categorized  as shrinkage pucker, feed pucker, structural jamming pucker, or tension pucker

feeding the layers of fabric through the sewing machine unevenly, can result in puckering

*resulting material distortion may be due to uneven feeding by sewing machine or mishandling by sewing machine

bulk seams detract from garments smoothness appearance

*construction steps can eliminate excess bulk to indicate quality

*bulk seams are lumpy, unsightly, uncomfortable, reduces seam flexibility

seam strength and durability of its seams affect overall garment durability

*good quality seams are as strong as the fabric of the garment

*integrity of a seam may fail in four ways: 1. raw edge 2. broken seam 3. seam slippage 4. seam grin

hole in the seam not caused by broken stitches but by not stitching both seam allowances deeply enough.

*this causes one or both seam allowances to pull away from seam stitching and a hole is created and the raw edge of fabric shows

occurs when the stitches break and the seam splits apart or bursts.

*usually due to wrong size thread, wrong stitch type, wrong seam type, unbalanced stitch tension, long stitch length, or incorrect needle

most often found in garments of coarsely woven fabrics

*occurs when fabric pulls away from stitches at the seam line, eventually producing a raw edge. 

*can weaken seam at point of raw edge

*occurs when thread, stitch, or seam type is stronger or more stable than the fabric

occurs when the seamline spreads open, exposing the stitches so they appear similar to the teeth in a grin or smile

*especially a problem in knit or stretch fabrics

(performance of seams determined by physical features of seams)

1. seam type

2. seam allowance width

3. seam stays

4. sewing accuracy

type of seam used to assemble a garment influences its appearance, durability, comfort, and ease

*one garment can have many seam types

1. superimposed

2. bound seams

3. lapped seams

4. flat seams

*seam type remains the same reguardless of stitch that sewed it

(majority of seams are superimposed)

* created by superimposing fabric plies, or stacking them on top of one another with edges even and sewing them together near the edge

1. plain seams

2. enclosed seams

3. french seams

4. mock french seams

*most common seam for joining major garment pieces (SSa)

*for major seams such as side, waist, sleeve, seams, fabric plies are sewn, face sides together, near the edge and then opened

*appears as a line with no visible stitches on outside

*not especially strong

reduces bulk by distributing seam allowances to each side of the seam line.

*high quality garments

(to make, operator sews the fabric plies face sides together near the edge, opens out the plies, and turns them back sides together to encase the seam allowances)

*occur only at edges

*appear with no visible stitches, sandwiched between fabric plies

**bulk is a problem b/c multiple layers of garment lie in same direction

clip seam allowances on concave curves and notch the seam allowances on convex curves.

*the seam allowances are also graded, blended, layered, or beveled, trimming each ply to slightly different length

(quality feature of enclosed seams)

*attaches the seam allowances to the lower ply

*keeps an enclosed seam flat and prevents its lower ply from slipping out and showing

(SSae-2) "seam within a seam"

*made by sewing a narrow plain seam with the back sides of the fabric plies together. then a slightly wider second plain seam is sewn, with the face sides of the fabric plies together, to encase the seam allowances of first seam

*on outside looks like plain but attractive inside

1. prevents raveling by enclosing raw seam

2 no stronger than plain seam, but does prevent seam slippage

3. adds elegance

4. suitable for short, fairly straight seams, but not well suited for long seams

5. difficult to alter

6. costly to make

used to create the appearnce of true french seam at more cost effective rates

*adaptation of plain seam: operators fold under raw edges and stitch them together or plain seam is stitched twice and trimmed closed

*made by overlapping the same allowances of two or more fabric plies and sewing them together, with the fabric plies extending in opposite directions

*more casual b/c already topstitching

*most common type of lapped seam

*operators make flat felled by folding under or felling the raw edges of both seam allowances as the seam is stitched

*exposes no raw edges inside or outside the garment and seam appears identical inside and outside garment

1. strong and durable (used in jeans etc)

2. prevent raveling b/c all the raw edges are enclosed

3. are bulky and rigid in heavy fabrics

4. are difficult to alter

5. can be used only straight edges

*immitates the flat-felled seam

*operators produce mock flat-felled seams by sewing a plain seam using a safety stitch and then seam allowances pressed to one side and topstitched

*inside CAN be seen though

*cost less to produce

(most lapped seams are stitched close to the edge of the upper ply)

*if stitched further back to create small flap then tuck seam b/c seam resembles a tuck

*slot seams are decorative varioation of lapped seam: edges turned under and nearly abutted

(modified LSq) made by superimposing two plies with the raw edges uneven and sewing a plain seam

*both seam allowances are pressed in one direction and topstitched to catch wider seam allowance

*made by using fabric binding strops to encase raw edges; bound seams are found only at edges

*not used to create structural seams but to cover and finish raw edges (ex. necklines, armholes, hems)

*bindings eliminate need for additional edge finishes

(occasionally, one edge of the binding is sewn with a plain seam to the garment. the binding is then folded around edge and caught by topstitching)

*the topstitching could be stitched in a ditch: with straight stitches placed in the crevice between the garment and the binding

involves seaming or folding the binding diagonally to conform to corners

*less bulky and more attractive

*join fabric plies whose raw (or sometimes folded) edges are abutted (or lapped) and sewn together

*sometimes called butt seams or exposed seams

*joining stitches typically 600

*flat seams appear similar on both sides

*little to no seam allowances

*used in knit where think seams are intolerable

* the width of the seam allowances affect the strength, durability, appearnace, comfort, and cost of garment

*wide seam allowances many advantages, however require extra fabric so costly

*narrow seam allowances are preferable on seams where bulk is unacceptable

1. are stronger and more durable; help absorb stress so stitches not strained

2. help slow raveling of fabric to seamline

3. help garment hang smoothly b/c of their weight

***wide seam allowances are unsuitable for crotch and underarm areas

*refers to any stable, narrow, nonbulky tape, ribbon, fabric strip, pr other device used to stabilize a seam

*makes the seam "stay" the same size or shape without stretching or distorting it

(taped seams, stripped seams, strapped seams)

(SSab)

*created by staying them with narrow strips of twill tape or fabric. superimposing the tape on the fabric plies and sewing it in 

when strop of fabric is sewn over the completed seam inside of the garment.

(some t-shirt necklines; increase comfort)

seams that feature a strip of fabric sewn over the seam on the outside of the garment

*the strapping decorates as well as reinforces

finish the raw or cut edges of a garment

*edges left unfinished do not necessarily sacrifice quality

*edge treatments affect garment quality, whether they are on outside, necklines, waistlines, sleeveless armholes, or on sleeve

*major function is to prevent unraveling

*many edge finishes add unwanted bulk

stitchings are stitches applied to finish an edge or ornamental purposes

edge finish stitchings are a series of stitches that finish an edge and include; hems, seam finishes, sewn finishs etc. 

(edge finishing) a hem refers to any finish at the edge of a garment; banded, bound, or faced hem.

*refers to turning under a raw edge and securing it to the garment

*sometimes hem tape or seam tape is lapped over and sewn onto raw hem allowance to cover edge

(simple hem finish where raw edge is turned under and stitched to garment)

*can be folded once (EFa) or twice (EFb)

(topstitched hems are specified, especially in casual garments and shirts that are worn tucked in-they are secure)

*most hem allowances in tailored and dress garments are attached with blindstitches (EFc) for durability blind hems

(the amount turned under) in high quality garments are wider than those in low-quality garments

*wide require more fabric so cost more

* hem width based on 3 main factors; 1. flare of garment 2. weight of fabric 3. end use of garment

1. garment tends to hang smoothly when weighted by a wide hem allowance

2. a wide hem allowance can be let down to lengthen garment

3. wide hem allowances can be let down to conform to changing fashions

Straight garments lend themselves to medium to wide hem allowances

*narrow hems in straight garments appear skimpy

*garments with flare require narrow hems

(wedged and flanged)

if edge is only slightly too full to fit the garment smoothly, tiny wedges of fabric are cut out and hem edges lapped at wedge to remove the fullness

*common in mens pants

(ease)

(another alternative to easing) Hem allowance flanges, or projections below the hemline, are cut as the mirror image of the garment above the hemline

*enable hem edge to lie flat and smooth

*garments of heavy fabrics do not require hem allowances as wide as those using light weight fabrics

*heavy fabrics hang nice with minimal widths

*wide hems are not necessarily higher quality, sometimes narrow are preferred

*for example: wide hem on shirtail is bulky

(EFb) narrow hem that is folded under twice and topstitched in place

*used on garments with a lot of flare

*very narrow hem that is rolled up to enclose the raw edge of the hem (EFw) 

*1/8 inch

*secured with topstitching, blindstitching, or overedging

*is used occasionally in moderate and high quality garments to neatly and attractively finish edges inside the garment

* to create this finish is also called turned and stitched the raw edge of the seam or hem allowance is folded under once and stitched (EFa) 

*clean stitching is costly b/c requires 4 passing of machine (1. sewing 2. butterflying 3. and 4. stitching through folded edge of two seam allowances)

(or tailored seams) (SSba) are plain seams, butterflied, with the raw edges of the seam allowances folded under and blindstitched

*essentially seam allowances narrowly hemmed

*durable but costly

*4 operations (1. sewing seam 2. butterfly 3.4. blindstitching seam allowances

(EFd) simplist most common edge finish stithcing for seam allowances, hem allowances, and other raw edges inside garment.

*used occasionsaly to finish and decorate edges visible to outside

*uses 500 class stitches

*effective b/c prevents unraveling, flexible and extensible

*hand overcasting (series of evenly spaced, diagonal stitches cover the seam to stop raveling)

1. pink: simplist; edge cut wit serrated blade (opaque fabrics)

2. glue seam and hem allowances flat (leather)

3. fused (heat-sensitive material) preventing raveling

4. liquid plastic

(any piece of fabric used to finish raw edges of the garment (armsyce neckline..) the facing is turned to inside of garment so backs garment at edge

*facings are folded or sewn to the garment using enclosed seam

*three main types; 1. extended 2. shaped 3 bias

-advantage of wide facing; attractive, protects fashion fabric from perspiration; however high cost and bulk

-facings in high quality garments tacked in place at seam allowances

-if not topstitch, facings require under/control stitching

-add to cost

(simplist type of facing) fabric at edge to be faced is extended and folded under (can be identified at fold at edge)

1. require least labor and least bulk

2. used less than shaped b/c require more fabric- *extension of garment*

3. can only be used to face straight edges-to finish front and back openings

(fabric pieces shaped identically to the garment edges they face)

*should be cut on the same grain as the garment piece they face so garment and facing conform to one another smoothly

*joined using enclosed seam

*usally cut from same fabric as garment

1. are ideal for finishing unusually shaped necklines or hems

2. require less fabric than extended facings b/c the separate pieces are laid out to better advantage

3. allow collar or trim to be sewn to edge before it is faced b/c sewn on not folded back

4. require more fabric

5. do not absorb stress well

*sometimes patternmakers combine shaped facing with extended facing.

*reduce bulk and lower labor costs, but require more fabric than shaped

(narrow, bias strips of fabric used to face raw edges)

*narrow bias strips are sewn to the raw edges to be faced and turned to the inside of the garment

*the lower edge of the bias strip is turned under and then topstitched, blindstithced, or tacked to the garment. 

1. require little fabric

2. require no pattern making and no interfacing (cost effecient)

3. useful for sheer fabrics

4. low in bulk

5. not well-suited for use on intricately shaped edges with sharp corners or curves

(covers the raw edge of the garment with a strip of fabric that is visible from both inside and outside)

*bindings can be distinguished from bands b/c bindings cover but do not extend garment edges

( very narrow bias strip, often color-contrasting or shiny, used to decoratively bind seam and hem allowances and other edges inside high price tailored garments)

*binding strip is seamed to the edge, folded around, and stitched in the ditch (BSf)

(pieces of fabric seamed to straight raw edges of garments to extend and finish edge)

*can be differentiated from binding b/c 1. bands extend beyond edge 2. bands are generally wider than bindings

*consists of single piece of folded fabric folded lengthwise

(finished garment opening that allows a body  part to pass through for dressing and undressing)

*are required when garment opening is closely fitted and does not stretch

*placket edges may be hemmed, faced, bound, or banded; the resulting opening edges are closed by lapping, abutting, or superimposing finished edges and fastening with closure

*manufacturers cut a slash in the garment and turn under raw edges of slash to form a placket

*only suitable if fabric does not ravel

*constructed in a horizontal direction, parallel to opening.

*used almost exclusively on sleeves, low cost opening

*two clips are made in lower edge of sleeve and then area is narrowly hemmed to create a finished opening

*inconspicuous and secure

*suitable for sheer fabrics

*made by cutting a straight or shaped slash in the fabric perpindicular to edge of garment; slash is faced with a rectangle of fabric sewn on with an enclosed seam (if pointed, should be reinforced)

*easy but creates unwanted bulk

*facing tends to slip out and show on outside; prevent this by topstitching, control stitching, or tacking

*necklines

(one of most wiedly used sleeve plackets)

*operator binds a vertical slash in lower edge of sleeve with narrow strip of fabric. to avoid puckers or a hole at point, point of placket slash reinforced with stitching

*somewhat bulky, tendency to slop out

(simplist and least expensive)

*mainly used on sleeves and occasionaly necklines/pant legs

*a seam entering the opening at desired position for placket is left unsewn and operator finishes seam allowance edges by clean finishing or overedgeing then blindstitches in placek

*disadvantage; cuff buttons are underneath wrist rather than outside

*consists of a bound slash. the overlap portion of the slash is bound with a topstitched strip of fabric. overlap hides underlap which is bound with narrower strop of fabric. placket is usally interfaced and end is topstitched for reinforcement

*AKA shirt sleeve placket

*most complex and costly

extra button and buttonhole placed on tailored placekt and prevents it from gaping

*also keeps sleeves in place if rolled up