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Definition
the textile material from which ready to wear garments are produced- provides foundation for quality (#1 determining factor of quality)
-the performance of fabric does not necessarily predict perofrmance of finished garment, but are strongly related. |
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| physical features of fabric |
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Definition
| (determine performance) 1. fibers, yarns, 2. structure of fabrics, 3. dyed, 4. printed 5. finished |
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Definition
raw materials from which fabrics are made (basic building blocks of a fabric)
*an individual fiber is fine
-affects aesthetic and functional performance of fabric |
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occur naturally in environment
1. protein fibers (silk, wool, animals)
2. cellulostic (cotton, linen, ramie, hemp (plant))
*more costly-luxury-comfort |
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Definition
formed through human effort
1. regenerated cellulosics (made from plant fibers- rayon, lyocell, acetate, and triacetate) typically more absorbant
2. syntehtics- petroleum products (nylon, polyester, acrylic, modacrylic, olefin, spandex) associated with low absorbency. tend to be stronger
3. miscellaneous (rubber and metalic)
*have regitered trade names |
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Definition
Staple- short (all natural fibers
filament- measured by yeard/meters (manufactured)- smooth bulked |
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| fiber shape and surface countour |
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Definition
| crosssectional shape of fibers influences hadn and luster of fabric |
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Definition
the size of manufactured fibers mesured by this. the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of fiber or yarn.
(microdenier or micro fibers have denier less than 1, making them fine) |
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Definition
| fibers that look and feel alike may perform differently in use. high quality and low quality fibers exist within each fiber type. |
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Definition
| blends of more than one fiber type increase or decrease the characteristics contributed by each fiber to the fabric |
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Definition
a group of fibers twisted or spun into a continuous strand called yarn, used to make fabric
*a fabrics yarn affexts functional and aesthetic performance |
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Definition
composed of short "staple" fibers, natural, but filaments can be cut into staple
-the many fiber ends sticking out fibe them a dull appearance and fuzzy texture (comfort)
*ravel and shift less, press flatter |
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Definition
| one of the steps in creating yarn, staple fibers are carded to semi-orient them in parallel manner. the mill may also comb yarn if it contains long staple fibers (combing removes short fibers, and are smoother) |
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Definition
| woolen (carded wool yarns, loosely woven and bulky, lose shape, sweaters) Worsted (combed wool yarns, cost more, menswear) |
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Definition
compsed of long fibers. manufactured fibers. only natural is silk. very low twist, smooth, stronger, fewer production steps(cost less)
-less absorbant, ravel and shift so cost more to cut and sew |
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Definition
| (BCF yarns) texturized filament yarns |
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Term
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Definition
| more than one yarn twisted together. many knitting yarns. thicker and stronger (corded contain 2 or more plied twisted) (covered consist of core, wrapped in softer yarn) (core spun) |
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Definition
used to achieve special affects in fabrics (ex. tweed, boucle, slub, chenille, ratine, spiral, knot/spot, spike/snarl)
decrease abrasion, add design effect, require looser fabric structure |
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Definition
the amount of twist is important- hard twist are durable, vs finer, less apt to snag and pill of a looser twist.
-high twist adds luster |
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Term
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Definition
most common method of creating fabrics- strongest and stable fabric.
using a loom, warp yarns interlaced with fillng yarns at right angles
-closely woven are firm and strong |
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Definition
filling yarns pass alternately over and under warp yarn, simplest and most common
-prone to wrinkling
(examples: calico, challis, muslin, batiste, broadcloth, percale, chambray, gingham, poplin) |
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Definition
filling yarns float or pass over or under two or more warp yarns in staggered progression. DURABLE
-floats allow yarns to move, to resist abrasion
(Denim, gabardine, chino, herringbone, houdstooth, glen plaid) |
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Definition
| filling yarns pass over or under several warp yanrs at one time- produces long float which gives smooth lustrous surface, flexible drapable fabric |
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Definition
1. dobby weaves
2. jacquard
3. crepe/momie
4. pile
(page 179) |
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Definition
| producing fabrics with small, regular designs woven into the fabric; inlcudes pique fabrics with a 3-d quilted-look surface |
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Definition
| have large complex designs woven into the fabric, yielding fabrics such as damask, brocade, and tapestry |
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Definition
| produce crepe fabrics with crinkly, pebbly surfaces due to the irregular interlacing pattern |
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Definition
| usually made by inserting an extra yarn that is cut to create cut-pile fabrics with plush surfaces, such as corduroy, velveteen, and velvet |
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Definition
| how it is fabricated. affects its aesthetic and functional performance (wovens, knits..) |
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Definition
the yarns in a knit fabric are a series of connected loops. the interlooped structure of knits allow them to stretch significantly
*one continuous yarn
*faster than weaving |
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Term
| filing knits or weft knits |
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Definition
yarns run horizontally across the fabric (ex hand knits)
-tend to run or ladder if a loop is severed
-most are knitted on circular machines that produce a tubular fabric |
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Term
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Definition
| consist of one layer of loops (filling single knits include jersey, rib knits, and purl knits) |
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Definition
simplist kind of single knit
*you can distinguish jersey by the rows of vertical loops that run up and down the face or front of the fabric (wales) and the horizontal loops that run across the back of the fabric (courses) |
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Definition
alternate wales and courses on the face of rib knits create rows of vertical strips or ribs.
* the stretchiest and most elastic knit -close fitting garments |
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Definition
| reersible with rows of courses resembling the back of a jersey fabric on both sides. *bulkier than plain single knits and have low crosswise stretch |
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Term
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Definition
consist of two inseparable layers of loops
*heavier, stetch less, and retain their shape better than single knits. edge does not curl making them easest knits to cut and sew
***cost more |
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Definition
the two layers of loops are staggered. complex jacquard patterns are often produced.
*come in a variety of looks
*snag but do not run
*weight and hand makes them good for tailored garments |
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Definition
the two layers of loops are directly on top of one another.
*are reversible |
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| stitch variations of knits |
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Definition
*tuck stitc- combines multiple loops on same course
*float/miss stitch- connects two loops taht are not from adjacent wales |
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Term
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Definition
yarns run parallel to the length of the fabric. warp knitting machines interloop many yarns simultaneously across widgth of fabric, loops interlock diagonally
*usually produced as flat goods- do not run or ravel
*greater dimensional stability
*lightweight |
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Term
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Definition
flat single knit, often made of nylon
*wales and courses of tricot jersey knits are similar to those of filling jersey knits except courses of warp like more dianoally than horizontally |
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Definition
consturcted with a laid-in yarn that connects loops from one column to another column diagonally up the fabric. most are oopen, lacy looking fabrics
*include most low cost net/lace |
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Term
| fiberweb/ nonwoven fabrics |
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Definition
created by matting loose fibers together using techniques (heat, adhesives, mechanixal interlocking)
*mainly used as interfacings
*durability varies, but generally withstands less stress |
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Definition
two distinct fabrics glued together as one. LAMINATED fabrics consist of a layer of fabric adhered to a layer of foam
*may be used to add body
*low quality |
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Term
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Definition
continuous sheets of fabric made directly from a polymer solution (ex. plastic)
*strong, durable, difficult to sew unless bonded or laminated
*vinyl (lower quality)
*polyurethane |
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Definition
fabric structure resulting from twisting and knotting the yarns around one another
*cost is related to fiber content |
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Definition
consiste of two fabric layers joined to a nonwoven interlining (batting, foam, feathers, or down)
*most QF are stitched together |
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Term
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Definition
have short decorative fibers held on to the base fabric with an adhesive.
*durability of the adhesive is key factor in durability
ex. dotted swiss |
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Term
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Definition
liquid colorants used to color fabrics. most dyes are water soluble chemicals that bond with fibers or build up on or within fibers.
*affect fabrics strength, abrasion resistance, luster, absorbancy, dimensional stability, hand |
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Term
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Definition
| not true dyestuff, contained in past that is spread over the cloth and adheres to the cloth through use of binders. |
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Definition
dyeing of manufactured fibers before the fivers are formed, while they are still in liquid stage
*garments made from this have best color fastness
*aka fiber dying (produces most even dyeing results in finished fabric-- main problem mills have to commit to color up to 2 yrs before selling season) |
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Definition
fabrics receive their dyes in yarn stage
*yarns wound on cones that are processed in dye liquor with high heat.
*tend to be more evenly colored than piece dyed |
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Definition
dyed in fabric stage.
*easiest and least expensive stage for adding color |
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Definition
*garment produced and finished and dyed by wet processor
*short lead times, best selling colors |
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application of designs to the fabric using dyes or pigments in limited areas.
*generally, printed on patterns less costly
*should be printed onto fabric straight of grain |
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Definition
| (dark colored dyed) dye is chemically removed in places so the fabric can be printed in those spots with a lighter color |
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Definition
applies colored ink, using a squeegee, through a screen that has some arease blocked off creating a stecil
*ink heat cured
*high speed rotary |
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Definition
applying a pattern by directly rolling it ontlo the fabric using a series of engraved metal cylinders carrying different colors of ink
*only suitable for large runs of yards |
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Definition
| transferring a design from a specially printed paper to the fabric using heat and pressure- small scale level |
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prints patterns created on the computer directly onto fabric using computer printer
*problem creating exact color as seen on computer screen |
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Definition
*includes mechanical and chemical
*for imparting desirable performance characteristics to fabrics |
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Definition
| american society for testing and materials |
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Term
| ASTM specifications (fabric) |
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Definition
*some companies depend upon the fabric performance standards established by ASTM
*ASTM textile fabrics specs updated regularly
*industry standards |
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Definition
many apparel manufacturers avoid consturction difficulties by establishing certain fabric specifications
*ease or difficulty with cuts, sews, and finishes, influence quaility and cost |
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Term
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Definition
*most apparel manufacturers inspect incoming fabric for defects that detract from aesthetic appearance of garment
(common defects-MILL FLAWS-include broken, knotted, or thick ends and pics..)
*other include bowing and incorrect skewing |
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Definition
*major defect- one that is longer than 9 inches and located more than 2 inches away from selvage edge
*either human or comupters flag major defects |
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Term
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Definition
| Computer-Aided Fabric Evaluation |
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Term
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Definition
fabric grading systems (also ten point system and graniteville system)
*serve as methods to quantify the number and severity of fabric defects
*endorsed by ASQC
*four or fewer points first quality |
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Definition
*color is single most important feature in attracting consumers
*can specify changes in hue, chroma (intensity), value (lightness vs darkness) |
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Definition
| achieving this is important. dyeing different fabrics requires different formulas to match color. |
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Term
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Definition
absence of color consistency, when sections of fabric rolls or parts of garments or outfits differ slightly in color from one another
(dichroism-when light strikes in fabric differently from one end to the other) |
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Definition
| the apparent change in a color due to a change in lighting. components that match under one lighting may not under others. makes difficult to control color consistency |
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Definition
amount of light the fabric reflects (dull, matte, and difused- little to no luster) (shiny and lustrous- high luster)
*fabrics with smooth, flat surfaces tend to have greater luster b/c reflects more light |
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Term
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Definition
refers to amount of light that passes through it, and affects appearance.
*high light permeability are sheer
*low light perm. cannot be seen through-opague
*translucent- medium light perm |
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Term
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Definition
term for the kinesthetic or movement aspects of the fabric. refers to emotional sensations resulting from touching, moving, or squeezing fabric.
*critical to ease of garment
*must be compatible to garment style |
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Definition
| drap. is aspect mostly synonymous with hand. refers to how esily the fabric BENDS and consequently how it falls, clings, hangs, flows, sags, pleats, or gathers |
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Definition
(ease of squeezing) from soft to hard.
*primarily affects comfort, especially in points where body bends |
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Definition
(ease of stretching (stretchy/high to nonstretch/low)
*affecs need for shaping seams |
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Definition
(ability to recover from deformation) from springy/alive/high to limp/low
*consumers like wrinkle resistence |
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Definition
(weight/volume) compact/high to loose/open/low
*medium densities are most versatile
*fine compact fibers lend themselves to intricate seaming and structural details |
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Definition
(variation in the surface from Rough/coarse/high to smooth/low)
*medium textures tend to be most flattering to extreme figure heaviness or thinness |
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Definition
(surface resistance to slipping from harsh/high to slippery/low)
*greatly affects ease of production |
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Definition
| (apparent temperature from cool/high to warm/low) |
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Term
| functional performance of fabric |
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Definition
refers to its utility and durability as a component of the garment.
*not determined fully by fabric |
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| utility of fabric include these garment characteristics: |
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Definition
| 1. shape retention 2. appearance retention 3. comfort 4. ease of care 5. safety |
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Term
| durability of fabric includes: |
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Definition
| 1. strength 2. abrasion resistance 3. resistance to degradation by chemicals |
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Definition
the ability of fabric and garments to maintan their orignial shape and size
*affects shape and size, function of garment in terms of appearnce retention and fit. |
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Definition
if fabric is extensible it elongates or stretches in use
*permanent stretch occurs if the fabric does not return to its original dimension after being stretched |
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Definition
the fabrics ability to return to its original size after being stretched. helps maintain garments appearnace
*associated with quality especially in knits |
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Term
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Definition
occurs when a garment or garment part becomes smaller, usally when laundered
*major cause of consumer dissatisfaction
(2-3% change of woven. 3-5% of knit)
**results from either relaxation shrinkage or felting shrinkage |
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Term
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Definition
(majority of shrinkage) fabrics can be stretched during finishing but relaxes back to original dimensions when laundered (ex. cotton shirts)
*another ex is when lengthwise direction of cotton garments becomes stretched during garment finishing and heat temporarily sets stretch |
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Term
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Definition
| occurs when fibers mat together b/c of moisture, heat, or agitation. this form of progressive shrinkage is common with wool. may cause garment to shrink half its size |
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Term
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Definition
torque (knits) skew (woven) refers to fabric distortion that results when the crosswise yarns of a fabric slant from one selvage to the other, rather than lying at right angles to selvages.
*excessive torque and skew distort garments so they dont hang straight. |
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Term
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Definition
| fabric must maintain its orignial appearance for the garment to remain useful. the ability of a fabric to stay the same color, retain creases, resist wrinkling, snagging, and piling, and withstand of heat determines withert garment maintains its original appearnce |
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Term
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Definition
abilitiy of fabric to retain its color
*color retention in reaction to laundering, light, dry-cleaning, seal and pool water, perspiration, and other chemicals
*no garment is completely colorfast
*expressed by fading, frosting, crocking, bleeding/staining, yellowing* |
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Definition
lightening of a color b/c of the loss and breakdown of the dye.
*usually due to repeated laundering, sunlight exposure, or storage |
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Definition
| occurs when color leaves the surface of the fabric due to abrasion (ex. on hems and pocket edges ) |
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Definition
| transfer of a fabrics color to another surface through rubbing; it occurs under dry or wt condtions |
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Term
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Definition
migration of color from a wet fabric into water and sometimes from there onto another fabric
*usally happens when garments left sitting in wet condition for longer than an hour |
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Definition
change of a base color to a very yellowed version of a color
*occurs in two ways 1. incomplete rinsing of garment after wet processing 2. chemicals left in cloth such as fabric softeners) |
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Term
wrinkle resistence
crease retention |
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Definition
(the ability of a fabric to avoid undesirable creases-desireable feature)
creases appear in most fabrics when pressure, heat, or moisture are applied to folded compressed fabric
(CR: ability of a fabric to retain creases-also desireable) |
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Definition
| (snags: pulls in fabric made when yarns catch on sharp object) (pills: fuzz balls of tangled fibers that form on surface and held by one or more fibers) |
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Definition
ability to withstand the high heat of washing,drying, and ironing temperatures
(thermoplastic: heat sensitive fibers melt)- can be heat set |
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Definition
-many factors determine comfort; wight, hand, extensibility, insulation, absorbency/wicking.
*weight: stiff or heavy is rough
*extensibility: variety of people |
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Definition
the ability of the fabric to transmit air and heat also helps determine comfort
*air permeability (the rate at which air passes through a fabric) fabrics ability to breath
*high air and low thermal: hot weather clothing
*low air high thermal: cold weather to retain body heat |
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Term
| moisture transfer (comfort) |
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Definition
ABSORBENCY (ability of a fabric to take in mosture)
WICKING ABILITY (rate at which fabric diffuses moisture)
MOISTURE RETENTION (rate at which fabric dries) |
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Term
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Definition
important utility feature b/c of its effect on the care of gamrent (refers to garments tendency to resist soiling and wrinkling)
*fabrics easy to care if soil resistant, absorbent, resilient, strong, abrasion resistant, dimens. stable, color fast, and resistant to heat and chemicals.** |
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Definition
flame resistence
highly light reflective (biking etc)
UV protection |
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Definition
measure of how well it resists deformation by external forces
TENSILE STRENGTH/TENACITY (abiilty of fabric to resist pulling force)
*may also be measured by tear stength or bursting strength |
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Definition
amount of rubbing action a fabric can withstand without being destroyed
YARN SLIPPAGE (tendency of yarns in a fabric to shift under stress, usally causing a raw edge in the seam) |
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Term
| resistance to degradation |
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Definition
fabrics must withstand degradation from environment
*must have characteristics: 1. chemical resistence 2. launderability 3. drycleanability 4. insect resistence 5. mildew resistence 6. sunlight resistance 7. fume fading resistance |
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Definition
*standardized tests used to check samples of fabric to see if meet specs. (ASTM, AATCC)
*critical tests include: 1. count 2. weight 3. shrinkage 4. tensile/bursting strength 5. crocking 6. lightfastness 7. garment washability |
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Definition
confirms the density and compactness of the favrication
(count, thread count, yarn count: number of ends and picks)
(cut/gauge: number of loops/square inch) |
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