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AKA: Classic core, Pro-core, Combicore (combination core).
This plywood has 3 layers of FIR plywood in teh center, then 1/8" of mdf Crossbands on top and bottom of that, and then your Wood Veneer on the outside.
Pro- It is lighter & has better screw holding than MDF. It is also stronger than mdf for structural or shelves to distribute weight across a span. And becuase of the MDF Cross bands is's Super flat, and has not core Telegraphing when finished. Typicaly more expensive becuase it's the best of both VC & MDF. |
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Veneer Core - PLY (short for plywood)
Typically has 7-9 layers of Fir plywood cross laminated for structural strength, and then the hard wood veneer on the outside. Pro's - it's lighter than MDF, and has the best screw holding ability.
Con's - it can (minimally) expand or contract with humidity, and their can be Core telegraphing through the finish. |
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Medium Density Fiber Board
This is Sawdust Compressed and glued into a solid sheet. Sometimes it's RAW(without any veneer) or the veneer is applied directly on top.
Pros - extremely flat and stable. Does not move to humidity, or show any core telegraphing after finishing.
Cons - very heavy, and has poor Screw holding ability. |
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Oriented Strand board - aka Chip board small flakes or chips of wood that are compressed and glued into a 4x8 sheet. this can be cheaper than gply but has similar properties
Pro's- lighter than MDF, better screw holding, Flat like mdf and Stable. and doesn't show any Core telegraph after finishing.
Con's - has bad reputation for being flaky, and brittle, but the new stuff is better than what guys are used to...can chip out on the edges if nailed or screwed to close to the edge. slightly heavier than plywood, and not as good screw holding as plywood, but better than MDF. |
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One Piece Face - AKA WPF (whole Piece Face) - this means the face veneer is a Rotary cut, and is one solid sheet. |
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ultra violet Finish-, uv1= finished 1 side, uv2 = finished 2s.
same as PF1 or pf2 |
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Whole Piece Face - This is a rotary cut veneer that is one solid piece, there are no splices or joints on the face of the veneer. This is Same thing as "1pf" |
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Rotary Cut Veneer - this is a more wavy grain is cut from a log that is on a big lathe and it peels the veneer like peeling an apple. |
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Plain Slice cut - this is more of a straight cut veneer, Grain tends to be more straight with some arch's or cathedrals. |
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Uniform White - typically shown on Maple to clarify that it is all one color, vs, Natural maple wich allows for color or brown streaks. |
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Face Grades for Veneers A,B,C,D,E |
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A - Highest face grade, no knots, clean even coloring, lil to no defects. B - close to A, but always for minor defects, C - Can allow for tight knots and coloring D - Putty filled knots and other defects E - open loose knots |
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Back Side of Veneer Grading: 1,2,3,4 |
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1 - Highest Grade, clean no knots 2 - minor defects, fairly clean 3 - putty filled knots 4 - mill option, this can be ANY wood even if it's different from the face. |
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S2S = Surface two sides, typically this means straighlined on one edge and the top side is surfaced
S3S - 2 Straight Edges (parrellel, and surfaced one side)
S4S - Two straight parallel edges, both top and bottom have been surfaced. MOST common boards that are referred to as S4S are run through a molder and come out very clean, and somtimes lightly sanded. But it should be explained if client wants S4S that we Dont have a molder but we can Put two straight edges and surface both top and bottom |
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Straight Line Rip - one edge is straightened...our Standard is to be clean enough to glue 2 straight edges, no kerfing or marks on teh straight edge. |
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Surface - this means to run the board through the Thickness planer to thin the board to desired thickness. |
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NET - means the finished dimension. example, net 5"Wide...means that when the shop is done with the board it's finished thickness should be 5" Wide...so when pulling a ticket if you see net 5" you want to pull a board WIDER than 5" so that you have enough room to put a straight edge on it...typically at least 1/2" is Allowed to net the finished thickness... so you would want to pull 5 1/2" to 6" wide. |
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Example on an order if you see 5"+ or 5" wider, means you can pull any boards that are AT LEAST 5" wide or wider. |
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Typically this refers to Length of the board. if you see All 8' that means pull 8ft only nothing shorter, all 10' - mean nothing shorter than 10ft all 12' - nothing shorter than 12' |
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' = equals feet, & " = inches example, 5' = 5 feet 5" = 5 inches |
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Lumber units come in 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 foot lengths. |
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Each unit of lumber allows for some cutback or "SHORTS" meaning an 8ft unit will allow for 7ft-8ft lengths, 10ft unit allows for 9-10ft lengths, etc. |
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typically this is close to a 1/4" but just shy by 1/16" this is most often found on import sheet goods |
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this is equivalent to 1/2" and found in import sheet goods |
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equivalent to 5/8" found in import sheet goods |
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equivalent to 3/4" found in import sheet goods |
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equivalent to 3/8", found in import sheet goods |
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1" their are 4 quarters to an inch. our lumber is marked 4/4, but it's been skip planned so actual thicknes is 1/16 less than an inch. = 15/16" |
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1-1/4" inches this has been skip planed |
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1-1/2" this has been skip planned |
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2" thick, this has been skip planed actual thickness is 1-15/16" |
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This means the lumber has been planed 1/16" often referred to as "hit or miss" as it's not completely clean, but typcally cleans up most of the saw blade marks on the lumber that were made by the mill |
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How to Measure a Board Foot |
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(Width x length) / 12 = Bf at 1" thick for 5/4 Multiply by 1.25 for 6/4 multiply by 1.5 8/4 multiply by 2 ( ex: W x L /12 = A, then A x 2 = board foot in a 8/4 lumber. |
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Linear Foot = Linear foot is how LONG the board is regardless of length or width. typically this applies when measureing for Trim, or Crown, or base. |
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AC = A Grade top sheet and C grade Back CDX - C Grade Top, D grade BACK, X = exterior glue |
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No Added Urea Formaldehyde, Meaning no Formaldehyde is used in the GLUE to make the plywood...this means it's a GREEN product. - the reason is that Formaldehyde has been known to cause cancer. |
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California Air Resource Board. if you see CARB stamped on the side of a sheet, this means it's CARB compliant which is a standard that California demands that is used in the production of the sheet to reduce emissions in the air. Almost everythign we sell is now CARB compliant. |
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First And Seconds - this is one of the HIGHER grades of lumber, which has lil to no defects, but allows for 83.3% Clean cuts, and usable wood. 6" minimum widths |
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Select and Better - this is Similar to FAS but is just another term used to define different species of wood, example Cherry and Hickory are S&B, not FAS. Select and Better allows for little to no defects, 83 1/3% clear cuttings. 4" minimum widths |
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lumber grade - allows for minimum board width is 3" wide and allows for 66 2/3% clean cuttings. typically has more open loose knots that are meant to be cut out. |
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Lumber Grade that allows for 3" minimum widths and 50% clean cutting. allows for bigger knots and more defects |
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Lumber Grade that typically allows for more defects, mineral streaks, and typically has Sound tight knots. |
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Sound Tight Knot - often found on plywood, when referring to a C grade, or Rustic grade veneer |
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This is how a lumber is cut out of a log, typically it's logs sliced parrallel through the log starting in the center and working outward. |
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this is a specialty cut, referring to how a board is cut from a log. First the log is cut into 4 quarters, and then one of the quarters is sliced to show the Medular Rays. in either White or Red oak, to produce a specific appearance |
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Rift, refers to how lumber is cut from a log, it is similar to how quarter sawn is done. typically a log is sliced into 4 quarters, then it is sliced again to produce EVEN straight Grain, this is the most stable cut of wood, often for Furniture. |
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Correct term is Medullary Ray's which appear only in Red and White OAK. often referred to ask the Flecks or quilting. |
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lumber Grade - FAS 1 Face, minimum width 6", one side of the board allows for 83 1/3% clean cuttings. |
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Sap is the Soft wood typically it's WHITE, and is the wood just beneath the bark and is closes to the outside of the tree...often this confused as a defect, but it's not. typically Shops want little to no sap in their wood., as sap is often a different color than the heart wood. |
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Heart refers to wood that is cut from the Center of the tree. often is darker in color in most wood species, and it typically more desirable. |
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this is a percentage of heartwood showing on the front and back of a board. so 90% heart wood front, and 80% heart wood back. |
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typicaly refers to Vertical Grain FIR or VG Fir - 85% of the face is C or Better, and the back 15% is C |
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this is a Lumber Grade often referred to in Alder, it is similar to FAS, or S&B, it allows for the most Clean Clear Cuttings of Alder with a minimun of 3" width and 83 1/3% clean cuts |
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this a a Grade of lumber most often referred to in ALder.. Premium Frame ALDER is what shops are asking for when they want "knotty alder" Frame is the grade that allows for TIGHT knots and the wood is structually sound for building, so you could FRAME a house with the board because the knots are tight and not prone to breaking. |
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