Term
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Definition
| parts, panels, pieces, and products |
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Term
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Definition
parts + panels = pieces
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pieces and pieces = products |
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Term
| preliminary assembly (parts assembly) |
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Definition
| parts line where as many small parts as possible are prepared for assembly (include serging raw edges of parts or panels, attaching labels, applying decorative stitchings, attaching trims, partially making zippers, constructing pockets, making belt loops, etc) |
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Term
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Definition
| order in which the garment is assembled in |
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Term
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Definition
| one of the first operations performed in the production of a garment, in flat form operators feed pieces/panels into a serger, where the edges are overcast w thread to prevent raveling |
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Term
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Definition
| spec technicians specify label position and attachment method, some of the first operations performed in most apparel assembly |
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Term
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Definition
1. cut and fold labels
2. loop labels
3. single labels
4. mitered labels
5. four side sew labels |
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Term
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Definition
| most often used in the center back of a garment, attached on two ends directly to teh facing of the back panel, each of the two stitched ends have been folded about 3/8 inch and the folded end caught securely under the stitching, back tacking two ore more stitches on both rows of stiching is impt for attaching a secure label |
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Term
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Definition
| on both tops and bottoms of garments, sewn into the seam as the seam is sewn, folded in half, the two edges inserted into the same and the seam and label are sewn as one |
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Term
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Definition
| both top and bottom garments, sewn into the seam as the seam is sewn, follow the same process as loop labels without folding the label |
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Term
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Definition
| tops and outerwear, sewn in the seam, both ends of the labels are folded with a mitered corner, slipped into the seam and sewn as one with the seam |
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Term
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Definition
| shirts and outerwear, labels are sewn on all four sides, backtacking is not necessary |
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Term
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Definition
| include decorative stitchings, such as topstitching, edgestitching, and embroidery, including momograms, cutwork, and trapunto, include narrow fabric trims such (lace, ribbon and braid) fabric appliques and nonfabric trims (beads, sequins), some decorative stitchings are applied and most appliques and trims are attached during preliminary assembly |
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Term
| ornamental stitching (OS) |
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Definition
| included in the decorative stitchings, applied for decorative purposes, include all forms of topstitching and other decorative stitchings that are aesthetic and have little purpose |
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Term
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Definition
| visible, decorative stiching done on the outside of the garment, may be placed anywhere within the body of the garment or near edges, affects the appearance of the garment, not cause puckering |
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Term
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Definition
| (OSF) close to an edge during topstitching, provides body, flattens and reinforces the edge and keeps facing from slipping out and showing on the outside of the garment |
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Term
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Definition
| decorative stitching used to form designs and patterns, most machine are satin stitch embroidery, requires strong thread (rayon, cotton, polyester), in RTW almost always machine embroidery, should be backed with light interfacing to support the area, appliques are sometimes embroidered |
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Term
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Definition
| embroidery that forms the initials of the wearer's name, give impression that its custom made (handmade ones are raised, machine made are flat) |
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Term
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Definition
| consists of holes in the fabric surrounded by embroidery, decorates collars and other details on feminine garments and is the process to make eyelet, a lace substitute |
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Term
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Definition
| form of embroidery that resembles quilting, in better garments - involves padding the stitched areas so they stand out in relief, producing a 3-dimentional effect, twin needle stitching on both sides provide this effect |
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Term
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Definition
| removing a group of parallel yarns from a fabric and tying the remaining perpendicular yarns together w decorative stitches, used to secure hems and for decorative effects, integral part of fabric |
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Term
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Definition
| decorative stitching that holds two closely spaced folded edges of fabric together with ornamental stitches, joins two separate plies of fabric w their seam allowances visible inside the garment, sometimes used on "clip to fit" slips |
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Term
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Definition
| include narrow fabric trims, fabric trims such as appliques, and a wide variety of nonfabric trims |
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Term
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Definition
| (ribbon, braid, lace, etc) may be applied directly to the garment, applied directly to a garment edge, included in a seam, or inset between two fabric panels, sewn or glued on |
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Term
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Definition
| most costly and durable method of attachment for most appliques, a smooth, dense zigzag stich |
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Term
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Definition
| applied individually, stitching or mechanically attaching the trim onto the fabric costs more but is more durable than gluing, must be securely attached |
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Term
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Definition
| zipper tape with elements attached, often used in separate element zippers, lengths are cut from each zipper, cost effective, easy to install |
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Term
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Definition
| application, usually of a zipper, with hand pickstitches, advantage is aesthetic, only in very high price lines |
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Term
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Definition
| centered application is characterized by two visible rows of topstitching on the outside of the garment, one on either side of the zipper chain, lines of stitching are about 1/4 inch from and parallel to the seam line |
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Term
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Definition
| zipper chain intentionally shoes, a type of slot application, are decorative, required when a zipper must be inserted in a slash in the fabric |
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Term
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Definition
| zippers in jackets/coats especially ski wear, feature this over or under the zipper chain, extra fabric pieces help prevent skin irritation from a cold or scratchy zipper and help to keep the wind and water away from the zipper and the wearer's skin, add cost and comfort to the garment |
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Term
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Definition
| ribbon or fabric strips attached behind the zipper chain so that it cannot irritate the wearer's skin or undergarments, only on high price lines |
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Term
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Definition
| be only one line of visible stitching on the outside of the garment, topstitching is on one side of the opening and is about 1/2 inch away from the folded seam line, it causes one folded seam edge to form a tuck that conceals the zipper closure, used at center front and center back garment openings and for most side openings (moderate to high price lines) |
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Term
| fly zipper/ fly front zipper |
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Definition
| form of lapped zipper, topstitching on one side of the opening, about 1 1/2 inches from the folded seam line, one side of the zipper is stitched to a facing and the facing is topstitched to the garment, the width of the facing lends support and helps the fly front zipper to withstand greater stress, used in jeans, most men's pants, many women's pants, some casual skirts, involved more fabric and labor intensive-cost more than reg lapped zipper |
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Term
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Definition
| overlap portion of fly fronts conceals the zipper |
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Term
| extended facing in overlap vs shaped facing |
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Definition
extended facing- to which the zipper is stitched, simplest overlap, in women's and children's garments, non bulky, comfortable, and low cost
shaped facing- overlap faced with the shaped facing, slightly bulky, men's flies (longer, require a separate, shaped facing) |
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Term
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Definition
| beneath the zipper protects the skin and undergarments from irritation by the zipper chain |
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Term
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Definition
| high quality pants, has a tab or extension on the underlap, which buttons to the inside of the pants near the waist, extension provides additional support to keep the front of the pants smooth and neat |
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Term
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Definition
| usually made and applied in the preliminary assembly, the outer edges of the pockets are turned under so no raw edges are exposed when the pocket is stitched to the garment |
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Term
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Definition
| a pocket shaped piece of metal around which the pocket edges are pressed to ensure the desired shape and size |
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Term
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Definition
| the pocket opening occurs when the garment seam is left partially unsewn, the ends of the pocket opening are reinforced with bar tacks or rivets so the pocket can withstand the stress of use, the opening edge of the pockets should be directionally stitched w the grain to avoid stretching and rippling |
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Term
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Definition
| the pouch of fabric that forms the functional part of the pocket, hangs inside the garment, some are made in preliminary assembly while others are made as the side seals of panels are sewn, must be double stitched and edge finished for security, to prevent raveling and holes from forming later |
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Term
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Definition
| the pocket bag is stitched to the seam allowances, requires extra fabric, pocket bag doesn't show at the opening |
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Term
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Definition
| pocket sewn in seam with fashion fabric showing the exposed portion |
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Term
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Definition
| are bound or faced slits within the body of the garment, with the pocket bag sewn behind the slit, inside the garment, most difficult pockets to construct, more costly to construct |
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Term
| three main types of pockets |
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Definition
| patch pockets, in seam pockets, slashed pockets, any of these pocket types have flaps attached |
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
| at the waistline to keep belts in position, it should always be located at center back to prevent the belt from riding up above the waistline, |
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Term
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Definition
| sewn into the yoke seam on the back of a shirt, originally intended for hanging the garment but has become a decorative feature |
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Term
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Definition
| on women's garments, loops that help absorb the weight of the garment when hung on a hanger |
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Term
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Definition
| are loops used inside moderate and high price evening gowns and other women's garments to hold bra and slip straps in place, keep garments w wide or low necklines properly positioned |
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Term
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Definition
| attached to the trains of the bridal gowns, after the ceremony, when the wearer places the loop over her wrist, the train is lifted to allow freedom of movement for walking and dancing |
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Term
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Definition
| the loop on the back of men's neckties, the short end of the tie is kept hidden behind the front of the tie when it is tucked into the keeper |
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Term
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Definition
| most common method of interfacing application, smooth and well shaped jackets and stable waistbands are produced, less time consuming, most tailoring is done using this, can blister, bubble or delaminate though in sections if applied to a part using incorrect time, temperature or pressure |
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Term
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Definition
| high price lines, held in place by the seams of the garment, interfacing needs to extend just beyond the garment's seamlines, more than that adds unwanted bulk and cost, sometimes not secured around all edges |
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Term
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Definition
| trademark of fine traditional tailoring, tiny stitches made through the interfacing and barely catching the fashion fabric, softly and subtly shapes collars and lapels |
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Term
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Definition
| layer of abrasion resistant tape sewn at the back of a pant hem to reinforce that area, it is found in high quality dress pants, helps pants to wear longer by protecting them from abrasion of walking |
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Term
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Definition
| such as rivets and tacks, lend strength to areas that experience hard wear or excessive strain, some are applied early in the production process others are applied in finishing |
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Term
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Definition
| made of copper, brass, or another nonrust metal that is circular reinforcement, reinforces pocket corners or seams, after the seems to be reinforced have been sewn, rivets are forced through the fabric into metal burrs, where they expand and secure the rivets to the burrs (functional detail-possess aesthetic apparel) |
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Term
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Definition
| reinforcement, consist of several adjacent or overlapping zigzag stitches, used to saw on labels and secure facings and shoulder pads,and reinforce areas of high stress applied during preliminary or in the end |
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Term
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Definition
| version of bar tacks used for attaching paper labels to apparel, fewer overlapping zigzag stitches than bar tacks, easy to remove, used for low strength operations (men's slacks - attaching paper size labels to the outside) |
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Term
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Definition
| after small parts are assembled, work begins on the main panels of the garment, operators shape and seam the 2-dimensional panels into 3-dimensional garment pieces, waistbands and elastic are applied and panels are hemmed |
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Term
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Definition
| one of the first steps in panel assembly (including darts, pleats, tucks, ease, gathers, and seams) |
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Term
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Definition
| must be sewn and pressed accurately for smooth fitting, eye appealing results |
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Term
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Definition
| stitches should be straight until they approach the tip, gradually taper off the folded edge, tip of a dart may be marked with a tiny drill hole to guide the operator, stitching must go beyond the drill hole so the hole does not show out the outside, stitches at the dart tip should be secured to prevent from raveling, backstitching helps to secure the tip of a dart |
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Term
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Definition
| darts should lie flat, pressed after construction with vertical darts pressed toward the center front or center back of the garment and horizontal darts pressed down, best results when pressed over a slightly rounded surfact |
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Term
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Definition
| each should be evenly spaced, perfectly even along its whole length, on straight of grain and crisply pressed |
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Term
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Definition
| requires an operator to evenly sew a longer piece of fabric to a shower piece, high quality easing looks smooth and has no tucks, pleats or gathers, easy on long straight seams, requires skill on curved seams |
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Term
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Definition
| high quality are perfectly even and hall in parallel folds,even gathers cost more to produce, stabilized stitchings holds gathers, also through the use of elastic or a drawstring |
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Term
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Definition
| operators seam panels of the garment together using specified stitch and seam types, this causes the garment panels to take on the shape of recognizable garment pieces |
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Term
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Definition
| small slits or wedges cut into the seam allowance, serve as key points for matching the panels |
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Term
| matching patterned fabric |
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Definition
using striped or plaid fabric with a pattern, there is a tolerance to the matched patterns of + 1/4
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inch due to the flexible nature of soft goods |
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Term
| sewing seams and edge treatments- flat vs. in the round |
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Definition
| flat is less costly to sew seams with the fabric pieces, the order in which an operator sews the seams of a garment determines whether the seams are sewn flat or in the round (in the round are smoother, more comfortable, more attractive) |
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Term
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Definition
| 1st - center back seam of bottoms(jeans are constructed w most seams sewn flat by sewing first this) |
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Term
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Definition
| 2nd - outer leg seams, jeans are constructed w sewing seat seam and THEN the outseams |
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Term
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Definition
| 3rd - inner leg seams, last step in the jeans construction process of sewing |
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Term
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Definition
| even though the seams have multiple rows of stitches, each row of stitches is made in a separate pass through the machine (more attractive, men's dress shirts) |
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Term
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Definition
| elastic operations are some of the most complicated in RTW apparel, special care must be taken, most cases stitches show on the outside, 400,500,600 class stitches or 300 zigzag stitches |
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Term
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Definition
| stitched directly onto the garment (inside/outside) to add shape where desired, difficult operation occurs either 1)involves the use of metering devices on the sewing machine 2) uses elastic cut to size and is dependent on the skill level of the operator |
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Term
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Definition
| tunnel for elastic to pass through, must be large enough to accommodate the elastic w/out causing it to fold, not not so large as to allow the elastic to twist within them |
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Term
| free floating elastic casings |
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Definition
| less bulky, more comfortable to wear than other casings, twists and rolls, nonroll elastic is recommended, cost more to produce than other casings |
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Term
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Definition
| fast economical to make, do not allow the elastic to twist, reduce the tendency of the elastic to roll, kinda bulky, to replace or alter the elastic, all stitches must be removed, raw edge is overedged to the elastic to make a folded casing |
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Term
| casings within body of garment |
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Definition
| operator stitches two seam allowances together or stitches the seam allowances to the garment to encase the elastic |
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Term
| straight lockstitch (301) |
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Definition
| what is used to apply zippers onto the garments |
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Term
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Definition
| reinforcement consisting of several adjacent or overlapping zigzag stitches |
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Term
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Definition
| reinforcement that consists of several overlapping zigzag stitches, used to saw on labels, secure facings, and shoulder pads, and reinforce areas of high stress, |
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Term
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Definition
1. slot
2. lapped (fly zipper)
3. invisible |
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Term
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Definition
3 types:
1. patch
2. in seam
3. slashed |
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Term
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Definition
| usually topstitched or blindstitched |
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Term
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Definition
| fabric patches applied to garments usually with fusing and satin stitches |
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Term
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Definition
| are identified by the number of rows of topstitching used to attach the zipper |
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