Eye Bolt

Attach lines or ropes to an object

Ex. cable on a flying piece of scenery

Diameter varies 1/8-3/8''

Shaft varies from 1-6''

Screw Eye

Used when additional strength is not necessary or when surface to be attached cannot be attached

Shaft diameters: 1/16-3/8''

Lengths: 1/2-4''

Screw Hook

Similar to Screw Eye

Meant for quick unhooking

U Bolt

Used to secure or fasten pipe, tube, or rod to a flat surface

Threaded on both ends

Cable Clamp (Cable Clip)

Another type of U Bolt

Has a grooved metal clamp that fits over the bolt shafts

Size of grooves correspond to diameter of rope/wire

Cable clamps should always be used in pairs for safety

Nicopress Tool and Sleeve

Provides a permaent, nonremovable friction clamp for wire rope or cable

Thin soft metal tubes approx 1/2-3/4'' long designed for specific diameters of wire/rope

Thimble

Narrow, grooved, teardrop-shaped piece of sheet metal

Used to protect wire rope or cable from sharp bends or kinks when cable is attached to ring or similar device

Turnbuckle

Long oval body with eye bolt on either end

Can be used to shorten/lengthen line system by connecting two lines as a link

Good for placement between a flying line and flown piece of scenery to adjust trim of the flown unit

12-guage wire around eyebolt

Snaps

Quick means of attaching a line to a load

Strap Hinge

Two wapering leaves joined by a loose or fixed pin

Leaves vary from 2.5-8'' 

Commonly used on stage doors

Butt Hinge

Used for hanging doors

T-Strap Hinge

Used for hanging doors, gates, box lids

Loose-Pin Back-Flap Hinge

Leaves range 1/5-2'' in width

Primarily used for joining scenery

Removable pin

Tight-Pin Back-Flap Hinge

Used to join scenery permanently

Frequently for two or more flats to form an unbroken expanse of a wall

Lash-Line Eye, Cleat, Hook

Placed on the edge of the stile just beneath the cornerblock

Tie-Off Cleat

Used in pairs approx 30'' above stage level to tie off the line after the flats have been lashed together

Stop Cleat

Attached to back of flats, ends project 3/4'' past outside edge of stiles to prevent flats slipping

Hanger Iron

D-ring on top

Attached to stile at top of flat that keeps D-ring hidden

Top Hanger Iron

Can be used with Bottom Hanger Iron to fly heavy pieces of scenery or alone for light pieces

Bottom Hanger Iron

Also called Hook Hanger Iron

Flying scenery

Ceiling Plate

Bolted to primary structural members of the ceiling to attach flying lines

Stage Brace

Adjustable wooden or aluminum pole that attaches to the back of a flat, braced to the floor

Brace Cleat

Attached to the stile of a flat with the end projecitng past the inside edge of the stile

Attachment for stage brace

Lash-line Cleat

Used to hold rope in place so flats can be lashed together

Lash-line Hook

Used in concstruction when flat prevents use of cleat or is extra wide (doorway, window)

Stop Block

Scrap wood keeps pieces from slipping

Rigid Foot Iron

L-shaped piece of metal

Long leg attached to the bottom of scenery

Horizontal foot is attached to stage floor

Hinged Foot Iron

Horizontal foot is hinged to fold out of the way when scenic unit is being shifted or flown

Stage Screw

Used to anchor a foot iron or the foot of a stage brace to the wooden stage floor 

Improved Stage Screw

Steel plug threaded inside/outside is inserted into pre-drilled hole in stage floor

Screw goes into plug

Easier to fix stage afterwards

Floor Plate

Used for securing things onto stage floor if you can't screw holes into floor

Sandbags and Counterweights hold it down

S Hook (Latch Keeper)

Used to hold stiffening battens on back of wall made up of two or more flats

Made of 1/8'' or 3/32'' by 1'' mild steel strap

Corner Plate

L-shaped piece of 1/16'' galvanized steel

used to reinforce corners of doors, windows, door or window casings and picture frames in similar applications

Tee Plate

Similar to Corner Plate

Picture Hook and Eye

Shop-made pieces (3/32 by 3/4'' or 1'' mild steel strap)

Rapid hanging for scenery decorations/drapery

Used in sets of two or more

Casket Lock

Holds platoforms together

Scribe

Matking tool

Chalk Line

Filled with dry scenic pigment, coats the twine

Claw Hammer

For removing nails

Rip Hammer

Pry apart nailed wood

Rip Hammer

Pry apart nailed wood

Ball Peen Hammer

Primarily used for bending and shaping metal and seating rivets

Rounded striking face and harder steel than normal hammer

Mechanic's Hammer

Also known as Blacksmith or Heavy-duty hammer

Head=1-3lbs.

Shaping metal

Tack Hammer

Lightweight, two faces

One is magnetic to hold tacks

One is for seating tacks

Mallet

Wooden, plastic, rubber, hard rubber head

Wood and plastic generally for driving chisels.

All three kinds can be used to shape thin sheet metal if you don't want hammer marks on the work.

Crosscut Saw

Cut across the grain of the wood

Alternate teeth on the blade are bent out so the kerf is wider than the width of the blade (prevents binding

Blade with higher number of teeth per inch= smoother cut

Rip Saw

Designed to go with the grain

Fewer teeth per onch (usually around six)

Filed straight across blade to give chisel like cut

Backsaw and mitre box

Fine-toothed (12-14 teeth per inch) cross cut saw with strong spine

Cut angles @ 45 and 90

Keyhole saw

10-12 teeth per inch

Used for curvalinear cuts in stock lumber or plywood

Coping saw

Fine curvalinear cuts in thin plywood

Replacable blades have 16-18 teeth per inch and are easily broken

For interior cuts, blade can be snapped out of frame, insterted through hole and reinsterted (like a scroll saw)

Hacksaw

Adjustable frame saw for cutting metal

20-25 teeth per inch (fine tooth)

replacable blades are avialable in a number of configurations and cutting mild steel and nonferrous metals (copper, aluminum

Utility knife

Matte knife (boxcutter)

Trim muslin/Heavy-duty carving

Wood chisel

Steel blade, sharpened at 30 degree angle used for gouging, paring or somoothing wood

Wooden or plastic handle

Blade widths 1/2'' 3/4'' or 1'' most useful in shop work

Cold chisel

Made of steel

Cut through mild steel and nonferrous materials

Struck with ball peen or mechanic's hammer

Block Plane

Smooth ends across the grain of boards paralell to grain of wood

Set at 15* to plane's sole

Smoothing plane

Set at steeper angle 25-30*

Spoke Shave

Pulled across work

Blade angle approx 20-25*

Sole is lsightly rounded than flat

Often used to soften or round sharp edges

Surform tools

Surform: Thin, disposable strip of spring steel honeycombed with sharpened protrusions on surface (the file part)

Pushed across work, cross-grain or parallel 

Not a smooth finish

Wood Rasp

Coarse teeth

Flat on one face, curved on the other

Rough shaping

Wood file

Smaller teeth

Flat on both faces, flat on one surface curved on the other and round

Smooth wood and plastic

Rat-Tail file

Round file

Wood, plastic, metal

Metal File

Fine teeth for use on metal

Hand drill

Chuck only takes bits that have a haft diameter of 1/4'' or smaller

Bit is inserted in to chuck and riven by a small geared crank

Brace Drill

For holes lareger than 1/4''

Push Drill

Spring loaded shaft that spins the chuck as you push downward on the drill handle

Bits 1/64''-3/16''

Useful for starter holes

Twist-Drill Bits

1/64'' to 3/8''

Don't use on metal with out lube