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Oceanography 2
midterm 2
147
Geology
Undergraduate 4
02/17/2013

Additional Geology Flashcards

 


 

Cards

Term
What are four different ways to sample sediment?
Definition
Grab Samplers, Cores, Drilling, Seismic Reflection
Term
What are grab samplers? what are their limitations?
Definition
they get the surface material of the ocean floor (upper 6 inches).

limitations: no history, depth, mixing up the years. relatively low budget.
Term
What are cores?
Definition
They go down deeper than grab samplers into the sea floor. Pipe/tube/cylindrical device. Falls by gravity into the bottom. Gives us a subsurface but still limited depth. Relatively low budget.
Term
What benefit does drilling have to coring/grab samplers?
Definition
Drilling cores through the rock and goes considerably deeper.
Term
What does seismic reflection tell us?
Definition
It is a geophysical tool. Tells us about the layering (whether there is sediment or rock, but not specifics of the sediment)
Term
What are the different types of sediment?
Definition
Terrigenous (out of the land), Biogenous (from plant or animal), Hydrogenous/Authigenic (forms in place out of water), Cosmogenous/Extraterrestrial (from space), and Anthropogenic (our waste)
Term
What is terrigenous sediment?
Definition
Comes out of the land. Primarily river-born, wind-born dune sand, and cliff erosion. Can be seen from satellite images and detected in the atmosphere. We can blow fine grain silt thousands of miles out to the sea.
Term
What is biogenous sediment?
Definition
Everything that has an origin from a plant or an animal. Can be all the plankton in the surface waters, fish remains, whale remains. Generally not the organism, but the shell/bones/hard parts/vertebrae. Among the most valuable pale-oceanographic tools because they tell us about early life / what it was like / whether it was warm/cool. Lots of info!
Term
What is hydrogenous/Authigenic sediment? What is an example of a hydrogenous formation?
Definition
Forms in place out of the water. Mineral deposits that form in the ocean. For instance, if we evaporate salt water what's left behind is salt.

Manganese nodules: rocks that precipitate out of water with iron, magnesium, and copper.

Form under particular conditions, could be very shallow water (like around the margins of SF bay) but can also be along ocean ridges and rises.
Term
What is cosmogenous sediment?
Definition
Extraterrestrial: comes from space. Meteoritic dust comes in constantly. People that look for meteorites go to Antarctica because it is all ice and easier to find.
Term
What is anthropogenic sediment?
Definition
Stuff that we have put in the ocean: radioactive waste, sewage sludge. Accumulates in the sediment on the sea floor.
Term
What info do we derive from sediment?
Definition
Processes that generate the grab of sediment (land/ice/rivers/bio?)

Sources -how it got there, where it came from (surface waters, coral reef deposits, wind from sahara) "fingerprinting"

Rate of Sedimentation (how fast has this taken place)

Biological Changes Over Time (species, climate, extinction events)

Anthropogenic Human Input (when we started using led/gas. whats in the atmosphere at certain eras)

Catastrophic Events (asteroid impacts, shifts in climate, glacial cycles)
Term
What about "processes" can we derive from sediment?
Definition
What has gone on in that particular place over time. The process that has generated that core/grab-pull of sediment. Land, ice, rivers, biology? May be a mixture of things, and may change over time.
Term
What about "sources" can we derive from sediment?
Definition
How it got there, where it came from (surface waters, coral reef deposits in place, wind from the sahara, etc). Different ways to determine source (fingerprinting)
Term
What can we derive about "rate of sedimentation" from sediment?
Definition
How fast this has taken place. The closer we are to shore generally, the faster it accumulates. Off of a major river there is a lot of stuff coming off and building up in inches per year. WAy out in the middle of the South Pacific not close to rivers, glaciers, biological productivity and could be millimeters per thousand years.
Term
what "biological changes over time" can we derive from sediment?
Definition
new species, climate changes, extinction events
Term
can sediment get subducted in a trench after accumulating from millions of years?
Definition
yes
Term
How old are the oldest rocks in the ocean? How old is the earth?
Definition
oldest rocks: 200 million years old.

earth: 4.6 billion years old

A lot of history that isn't recorded in the present oceans because we keep recycling them. Oldest continuous deposits on land are probably in a lake and those are still only thousands of years old. Land does not have the record that the sea floor does.
Term
What about the "anthropogenic human input" can we derive from sediment?
Definition
By looking chemically at the composition of sediments, we can actually see the beginning of led. Use led in gasoline, which goes into the atmosphere, gets washed into the ocean. We can find a date of about 1920 in the sediments. We can find radioactivity from the first nuclear testing. We can see DDT and PCBs and things that humans have put into the environment.
Term
What is the "texture" of sediment?
Definition
Size of the grains (from boulders to cobbles to gravel to coarse sand, medium sand, find silt, clay, and finer).

Tells us about what mechanism delivered that material (can't move gravel with wind, rivers can carry boulders, glaciers can move anything).

Shape (long, rounded). Sorting (how uniform are the particles) depends on what the medium is to transport.

Sand is pretty well sorted, wind is even a better sorting agent. Glaciers will freeze into the rock and pick up everything so glacial debris are poorly sorted.
Term
What do the "structures" of sediment tell us? What are laminations? What is Cross Bedding?
Definition
The relationship between all the individual grains. Coarse material settles first and then gets finer on top (graded bedding)

Laminations: parallel banding (horizontal bedding in layers) --> tells us about change in process over time.

Cross Bedding: when wind and currents deposit sand they can form things like ripples.

Layers/Dunes building up on top of each other is a good indication of wind blown sand
Term
What is mineralogy?
Definition
Something distinct in the sediment that could have only come from a specific source.
Term
What can we tell about chemical composition in sediment?
Definition
Basic elements, contaminants, isotopes --> tell us things like water temp, ocean conditions, can be really important in determining historical record.
Term
What do fossils in sediment tell us?
Definition
Tell us something about age, ocean conditions, etc.
Term
What is sand's settling velocity? How many days would it take to settle 4000M (typical deep sea depth)?
Definition
Sand's settling velocity is 2.5 cm/sec

It takes 1.8 days to settle to the ocean floor.
Term
What is silt's settling velocity? How many days would it take to settle 4000M (typical deep sea depth)?
Definition
Silt's settling velocity is 0.025 cm/sec

It would take 185 days to settle 4000M to the deep sea floor.
Term
What is clay's settling velocity? How many days would it take to settle 4000M (typical deep sea depth)?
Definition
Clay's settling velocity is 0.00025 cm/sec

It would take 50 years for clay to settle 4000M
Term
Where do different particle sizes settle throughout the ocean? (sand/silt/clay)
Definition
Along shoreline is where coarse material gets dropped behind (tends to be sand), where the energy is the highest.

Takes silt and clay and goes further off shore. During flood stages, rivers are putting out huge plumes of sediment.

Gradually silt settles out very fine sand) across the shelf.

Gradually clay (REALLY fine) goes for miles or hundreds of miles nad is scattered throughout the world's oceans.
Term
Why might an anomalie happen in which sand finds itself at the outer edge of the shelf?
Definition
The last ice age sea level went down 350-400 feet and the ocean went way out to the edge of the shelf and 10 mi off shore was the beach.
Term
What's a relic?
Definition
leftover/old school sediment
Term
Silt + Clay = ?
Definition
Mud. "mid-shel mud belt"
Term
What sediment do glaciers carry?
Definition
Everything, come out as icebergs and melt and drop everything. There would not be a nice even pattern of sand/silt/clay. Over time waves sort out material and even in Antarctica we have some small sand beaches. Patterns won't be as uniform.
Term
Why do they call Mississippi a "birds foot delta"?
Definition
Not a nice even band. As it comes down into the gulf it has distributaries or individual channels that overlap over time. Pattern won't be nice and smooth but we will get fingers of sediment going out.
Term
What is pelagic clay?
Definition
stuff that came out of rivers/glaciers that has taken 50 years to settle. Grey, Red, Green clay. Derived from the continents and can move hundreds of miles because it is settling very slowly. Not fertile in terms of biological productivity. From satellites we can see big plumes of clay settling out.
Term
What are turbidites?
Definition
Grated sandy/silty clay sediments found in submarine canyons, in abyssal planes, deep sea fans, large areas that are closer to shore where terrestrial sediments have a route down to the shore. Tend to be closer to the continents.
Term
What are ice rafted sediments?
Definition
Seattle and North West glaciated during the ice age and gravel and everything came out to the edge of the ice sheet. The NOrth pacific drift would approach the coast line, split half up to Alaska, half down the coast of Oregon carrying chunks of ice south as far as the middle of the Oregon coast.
Term
What are volcanic sediments?
Definition
When a volcano erupts the ash, debris, and glass can go out for hundreds of miles. Turns all the stuff into little glass-like pieces. We can tell by analyzing it what its general composition is. When it covers the landscape rivers and streams begin to carry it down in sediments/turbidity currents. Provides an instant indicator of where we were in time.
Term
Whats calcareous sediment?
Definition
Biogenous: Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3) --> clams, mussels, planktonic organisms.
Term
Calcareous Phytoplankto?
Definition
floating plants produced in vast quantities (ex. bioluminescent water is a type of phytoplankton: bloom in sping, nutrients form, winter storms have turned over the ocean)
Term
What are coccoliths?
Definition
A type of phytoplankton (calcareous/bigenous sediment)

Microscopic plants that photosynthesize that tend to make little plates which will accumulate together and build up on the sea floor. May have been as abundant as anything that has ever lives. Calcium carbonate muds (coccolith oozes of sediment left behind)
Term
What are calcareous zooplankton? what is glubigerina? foramimfera?
Definition
(calcareous/biogenous sediment) Floating animals.

Glubigerina: ooze. type of one celled protozoan that makes a calcium carbonate shell.

foramimfera: one of the most abundant zooplankton and looks almost like a bunch of microscopic golf balls. Have spines and protoplasma that go out and accumulate food. Fed on coccoliths and other tiny plants. Also become limestone and marble.
Term
What is CCD or carbonate compensation depth?
Definition
also called "snow lime"

below 5000 M, calcium carbonate starts to dissolve. Below that layer we get silica.
Term
How do we measure ocean acidification?
Definition
by pH (goes from 0 to 14 on a logarithmic scale)

generally ocean water is slightly basic (around 7 1/2 or 8)

ground water on campus tends to be slightly acidic and dissolves calcium carbonate
Term
How do sinkholes form on land?
Definition
Ground water (slightly acidic) seeps into the cracks in marble/limestone and carries it off into springs from caves. When the cracks get to the surface, we get a sinkhole from the collapse (common problem on land.
Term
How much carbon dioxide do we produce? How much has gone into the ocean?
Definition
We produce 525 billion tons of carbon dioxide. 1/3 of that has gone into the ocean at about a million tons an hour. The ocean has about 50 X more carbon dioxide than the atmosphere. If something happens in the ocean and releases that it will have a huge impact. It has changed the chemistry of the ocean and increase pH by about 30%
Term
What happens when carbon dioxide reacts with water?
Definition
Forms carbonic acid (H2CO3) which is a weak acid. That rapidly dissociates to a bicarbonate and that bicarbonate can go back to carbonate. This combines with calcium to go back and form calcium carbonate.

Moral of the story: carbon dioxide is making ocean slightly more acidic, which is messing up the chemistry so calcareous beings are having a hard time grabbing on to it to make their shells.
Term
What are "siliceous" biogenous materials?
Definition
Make shells out of silica (SiO2). Further from shore where there isn't a lot of river material/glacial material. Not effected the same way as calcareous material.
Term
What are siliceous phytoplankton?
Definition
Diatoms. Some look like Frisbees/plastic pill boxes/long chains. Bloom in huge quantities. Silica shell liek what we make glass out of. In deposits, we get diatomaceous earath (use it for filtering water and abrasives)

form thick deposits.
Term
What are the siliceous zooplankton?
Definition
Radiolaria: intricate looking (little sphere with antennae), some look like a helmet. Make shells that are indicative of the conditions they formed in and it is the organic matter within these that are the building blocks of oil and natural gas.
Term
What is a threat to coral reefs?
Definition
Climate change (ocean warming) and Cyamide fishing
Term
What range of temps can corals grow at?
Definition
64-86 degrees F or 18-30 C
Term
What is Coral Bleaching?
Definition
When it gets really warm corals expel their algae and the coral dies, so we are left with a white calcium carbonate skeleton. Depends how long the warming episode is to tell how long until they can re colonize. A lot of reefs with no coral now which are increasing in frequency.
Term
How many coral bleaching events were reported between 1876 and 1979? How many between 1979-1990?
Definition
1876-1979: 3 bleaching events

1979-1990: 60 bleaching events
Term
Whats el nino
Definition
temp goes up at months at a time, typically when bleaching takes place.
Term
What is ENSO
Definition
El Nino Southern Oscillation. Indicator of pacific climate. Fluctuates over a period of several decades with el nino periods and la nina (less stormy, rainy, moderate climate) periods. A lot of biological phenomena linked to these cycles.
Term
What is cyamide fishing?
Definition
Sodium cyamide is a broad spectrum poison used for execution, fumigating, and electroplating. IN the 60s there wasa huge market for live fish in restaurants so divers realized by mixing this as powder in squirt bottles, fish would be stunned and they could sell them alive. Also kills the reefs though.
Term
How much of the world's water is salty? How much is fresh?
Definition
97.5% salty, 2.5% fresh.

Of that 2.5%, about 68.7% is in ice camps/glaciers and is not accessible to us. About 30.1% is ground water (beneath the surface in aquaphors, sands, other kinds of rocks). Permafrost (water in rocks/sediments that is permanently frozen) is 0.8%. Surface & Atmospheric water is 0.4%.

Of surface & atmospheric Lakes are 67.4%, soil 12.2%, Wetlands 8.5%, Rivers 1.6%, Biota 0.8%, Atmospheric 9.5%
Term
Qualities of water
Definition
Polar (2 hydrogens one oxygen): Hydros lined up at 105 degree angle. High surface tension, dissolves more substances than any other material.

Oil will not dissolve in water (oil not polar, very stable)

Occurs naturally in all three states (solid, liquid, vapor)

Can hold a lot of heat.
Term
What is a calorie? What is the latent heat of vaporization?
Definition
By definition, 1 calorie is the amount of heat required to raise 1 gram of water 1 degree centigrade. Latent heat of vaporization (amount of heat it takes to evaporate 1 gram of water) → 540 degrees a gram. If we then condense it, we produce that amount of heat
Term
What is fusion?
Definition
how much heat it takes to melt ice or how much heat we get back when we melt ice to liquid → 90 degrees a gram.
Term
What is the average salinity of ocean water?
Definition
on average about 3.5%, ranging from 0-25%
Term
Why is ocean water salty?
Definition
Minerals come out of the sea floor

Decrease salinity (things that add more water): precipitation, runoff from rivers or streams, icebergs melting, sea ice melting

Increase salinity: evaporation (leaves salts behind), sea ice forming (as ice freezes in the arctic it will push out salt so they will be concentrated around salt)
Term
Is the equator or the north/south poles more salty?
Definition
30 degrees north and south of the equator are high salinity (because of high evaporation). Right along the equator, a little fresher because of rainforests. At North and South poles lower salinity.
Term
As temperature goes up, density goes...
Definition
down. temp down, density up (inverse)
Term
As salinity goes up, density goes...
Definition
up. as salinity goes down, density goes down.
Term
As pressure goes up, density goes...
Definition
up. Density goes down pressure goes down.
Term
What is "permanent thermo cline"
Definition
(low latitude, tropics) Permanent zone where water temp gradually gets colder: at about 1000 meters temperature is getting cooler, then below that is pretty stable down to the deep sea floor.
Term
What is "halo cline"
Definition
(low latitude, tropics): saltier at surface because of evaporation, again decrease as we go deeper to 1000M.
Term
Tipping Points (climate)
Definition
certain point when circulation changes.
Term
Gases in the water
Definition
ocean has absorbed 30-40% of the carbon dioxide we have produced, made the ocean slightly more acidic. Ocean has 50 X more CO2 than the atmosphere. If even 1-2% of that is release it can double the CO2 in the atmosphere.
Term
what is the most abundant ion in the seawater? how many parts per million / what percent of the ions in the ocean?
Definition
chlorine - 19,000 parts per million or about 55% of the ions in the water
Term
how many parts per million are sodium ions? what percent of the ocean?
Definition
sodium: 10,500 parts per million / 30.6% of the ocean
Term
how many parts per million are magnesium ions? what percent of the ocean?
Definition
magnesium: 1,350 parts per million or 3.8% of the water
Term
how many parts per million are sulfate ions? what percent of the ocean?
Definition
sulfate: 885 parts per million or 2.5%
Term
how many parts per million are calcium ions? what percent of the ocean?
Definition
calcium: 400 ppm or 1.1%
Term
how many parts per million are potassium ions? what percent of the ocean?
Definition
380 ppm or 1%
Term
what are the 6 major elements that make up 99.3% of the salt in the major oceans?
Definition
chlorine (55%)
sodium (30.6%)
magnesium (3.8%)
sulfate (2.5%)
calcium (1.1%)
potassium (1%)

always have those percentages no matter what the overall salinity is. has to do with an equilibrium
Term
what is "Residence time" of an element in the ocean?
Definition
tons of salt in the ocean divided by tons that enter every year by a river/ extracted by going out as minerals and you get years (average time that particular ion will stay in the ocean)
Term
Which elements have long residence times (millions of years)
Definition
Sodium is 210,000,000 years
Magnesium is 12 million years
Potassium is 11 million years
Term
What elements have short residence times and what are their residence times?
Definition
Silicon 8,000 years
Manganese is 700 years
Iron is 140 years
Aluminum is 100 years

More abundant = longer residence time
Term
how long does the average molecule last?
Definition
3,000 years
Term
what are water softeners?
Definition
use zeolites to take things out of water. chelates grab things that make water hard.
Term
What's a solar still?
Definition
97.5% saltwater, 2% in ice, gets rid of salt. Would give us enough water to drink but would not solve agricultural or bathing problems in an emergency
Term
What are the ways to desalinate?
Definition
Evaporation
Freezing (salt squeezed out from crystal structure
Osmosis (passing seawater through a semi-permeable membrane) - most common
Term
For every 30 barrels of oil Saudi Arabia produces, how many go to desalting?
Definition
one
Term
Where is the biggest salination plant that has been approved by the state? how many gallons would it produce
Definition
Carlsbad - 50 million gallons a day.
Term
How much of the city's water does UCSC use?
Definition
used 6% and lowered it by 20% when ppl bitched
Term
Santa Cruz uses almost entirely ___ water, Soquel creek uses almost entirely ____ water
Definition
Surface / Ground
Term
sources of santa cruz water (and percents)
Definition
San Lorenzo River (47%)
North Coast Stream -3 streams out of Bonny Dune, good water, built in 1890s (32%)
Loch Lomon - main storage reservoir (17%)
Wells (4%)
Term
Uses of water in santa cruz?
Definition
Single Resident 40%
Multiple Resident 23%
Business/Industrial 26%
Park/Land 9%
Term
How many total gallons of water does California use per day? Central Coast? Santa Cruz?
Definition
California: 1926 gallons
Central Coast: 154 gallons
Santa Cruz: 113 gallons
Term
How many gallons per resident a day does california consume? central coast? santa cruz?
Definition
California: 133 gallons
Central Coast: 109 gallons
Santa Cruz: 67 gallons
Term
What are four ways we battle the fact that we don't have enough water?
Definition
Conservation
Rationing
New Sources: desalination
Recycling: done on a global scale
Term
Arguments against desalination
Definition
Expensive
Not energy efficient
Marine life impacts
Term
What marine life impacts does desalination cause?
Definition
Intake:
Impingement (heating up water, sucks water through screens and anything small that gets sucked up to these screens is going to die). Moss landing uses 1 billion gallons per day and santa cruz would be sucking in 5 million gallons a day. 10-20% of the larvae from that area are lost. Entire populations won't be destroyed and total impact is not that high.

Outflow: half of the water becomes fresh, the other half becomes doubly salty. Not that much of a problem when put back into water.
Term
how many billion barrels of oil and water do we use per year to make plastic bottles?
Definition
18 billion gallons of oil, 130 billion gallons of water

We use 3 1/2 times as much water to make the bottle than to fill it. Bottled water is a 130 billion a year business.
Term
surface currents are created by...
Definition
wind (heat distribution by sun)
Term
Subsurface currents are driven by...
Definition
density, (cool water sinks), salinity, and gravity
Term
What are ways of measuring/monitoring ocean circulation?
Definition
Surface drifters (expensive, see where things how up but don't know the path)
Subsurface Drifters
Current Meters (can anchor them out at a particular place)
CODAR (coastal ocean dynamics applications radar)
Term
What was the rubber ducky drift?
Definition
29,000 ducks left china in 1992 and fell off boat in the Pacific
10,000 drifted north, ended up in 10 months on the coast of Alaska
19,000 go south and wash up in Australia, Indonesia, and America
15 years later coast of England (17,000 miles)
2 years earlier another spill happened with nike shoes and they washed up on the coast of Alaska and people would match up shoes
Term
What is CODAR?
Definition
Coastal Oceans Dynamics Applications Radar

Can go in at any time of the day and see which ways the currents are going. Remote system.
Term
What is the coriolos effect?
Definition
earth spins at 2,000 miles per day
angular momentum drives this (circumference smaller at poles so it goes slower)
Northern hemisphere water goes 90 degrees to the right, in the south moves 90 degrees to the left. Stationary objects don't feel that but it effects air and water.
Term
What are the NE and SE trade winds?
Definition
up to about 30 degrees above and below the equator, are hot and push toward the equator, and there is a region right along the equator called doldrums where there isn't really wind.
Term
What are the westerlies?
Definition
blow from the west and move in the opposite direction
Term
What is the north equatorial current?
Definition
being blown by trade winds
Term
What is the equatorial counter current?
Definition
current pushed back in the opposite direction
Term
western boundary current?
Definition
on western side of the ocean (australia, asia, florida, south america

tend to be narrow (some cases around 35 miles)
very well defined
transport warm water because they are coming from the equatorial region where there is more sunlight
Deep (go down a couple of miles)
Transport high velocity lots of water
England, France, and Spain are much warmer than they would have been because of currents
Climate change may change this and that would be bad
Term
Eastern Boundary Currents?
Definition
Cold
Wide (about 600 miles)
Slow and sluggish
Shallow
Important for ocean productivity because of upwelling
Make up 1% of the world's oceans and provide 90% of the world's fisheries
Term
What is upwelling?
Definition
circulation pattern in which deep,cold, usually nutrient-laden water moves toward the surface. Upwelling can be caused by winds blowing parallel to shore or offshore
Term
Florida current?
Definition
runs between cuba and florida
Term
What are the three seasons of circulation on the california coast?
Definition
Upwelling (spring/early summer) --> water moves off shore

Oceanic (late summer/fall) --> winds die down, general current pattern to the south

Davidson Current (winter): sub surface current going frmo south to north, surface ones coming in to the bay. Subsurface current surfaces and we have a northerly current
Term
What is thermohaline (heat/salt) circulation?
Definition
subsurface circulation


o Ocean’s temp range goes from about 0-30 C or 32-86 F
o Salinity goes from essentially 0 (fresh) to about 4%. Global average is about 3.5% (percent is parts per hundred). We talk about salinity in parts per thousand.
o Surface should be warmest freshest water, bottom should be coldest/saltiest water.
o Saltiest/coldest = densest, freshest/warmest = light
o Sigma T ⇒ density (T/S diagrams show temp and salinity)
o Go out and drop a hydrocast with a cable and water sampling bottles to see density and temp.
Term
North Atlantic Water Masses
Definition
densest water in the ocean forms off of Antarctica. Very close to freezing, ice squeezes out salt. moves down (antarctic bottom water)
Term
North Atlantic Deep Water
Definition
moves into southern ocean across equator (second densest water) stays that way for months for thousands of miles.
Term
conveyer belt circulation cycle takes how long to complete?
Definition
thousands of years.
Term
Sources of waves
Definition
wind (most waves we think about), gravity (pull of sun/moon on water), earthquakes/volcanic eruptions --> caused from seafloor earthquake, volcanic eruption, or a large seafloor landslide. Will travel at the speed of a jetliner (500 mph) for 90 to 100 miles.
Term
Crest
Definition
high point of wave
Term
trough
Definition
low point of wave
Term
wavelength
Definition
distance between two crests or two troughs
Term
wave period
Definition
time it would take between crests coming from shore. Talked about in seconds (speed in feet per second or miles per hour)
Term
sea
Definition
when energy has been transmitted to the water’s surface and the amount of energy that goes into those waves (how big, high) are the properties of the storm
Term
sea
Definition
when energy has been transmitted to the water’s surface and the amount of energy that goes into those waves (how big, high) are the properties of the storm
Term
properties of a storm
Definition
speed of wind
wind duration (hour or days for large waves)
distance - FETCH (distance that wind blows of waters surface)
Diameter of orbit within wave = total wave height
Term
Properties of orbital motion/diameter within wave
Definition
diameter of orbit within wave = total height of wave
as we go deeper orbit gets smaller and smaller
depth orbitals extend to = 1/2 wave length (L/2)
as long as the depth is greater than half the wavelength, we get deep water waves.
Velocity = gravity x period / 2pi
Term
shallow water wave
Definition
square root of gravity X water depth (controlled by depth). Where depth is less than 1/20 of the wavelength

velocity decreases as we get into shallow water and the wavelength decreases. wave height increases. wave period stays the same (length is decreasing and speed is decreasing so it balances out)
Term
Wave interference
Definition
at any one point it is rarely a single perfect uniform wave front, there are multiple coming in and interfering.

go through cycles and sets of constructive and destructive interference
Term
Constructive interference
Definition
waves come together and get really high
Term
destructive interference
Definition
subtraction
Term
reflection (Waves)
Definition
waves break up against the cliff and then go back and hit the incoming waves
Term
refraction (Waves)
Definition
really important. change velocity as they get into shallower water. Bending as it gets into shallower water makes surfing possible.
Term
Defraction (Waves)
Definition
waves go past land and create another little wave pattern (secondary wave defractions)
Term
what works very well for carbon dating?
Definition
volcanic ash
Term
laminations
Definition
horizontal bedding
Term
cross bedding
Definition
wind currents deposit the sand in ripples
Term
what kind of sediment is in shallow water?
Definition
mostly terrigeneous sediment
Term
what is paleoceonography
Definition
the study of the history of oceans in their geologic past especially history
Term
how can we study the ocean's geologic past?
Definition
Fossil record from plankton remains

foraminifera: tells us how old sediments are
radiolaria: glassy, easy to recognize and mostly dominate the sands
coccoliths: some planktonic algae that carry CaCo3
diatoms: common in temperate and polar regions and abundant both near coast and in open ocean
Term
oxygen ratio
Definition
We can also study oxygen Isotopic ratios using paleothermometers. oxygen is in 2 forms O18 and O16. High Values means low temperatures. Sea is abundant with 016. O16 is lighter than O18. When evaporation happens O16 evaporates while O18 is left behind because it is heavier and the ratio between the two changes. The ratio of O18 and O16 determines cooling/heating climate periods.
Term
thermal expansion
Definition
as water gets warmer it gets lighter and less dense and takes up more volume even though no water was added
Term
hermatypic coral reefs
Definition
need algae, photosynthesis dependent. reef building, stony, simbiotic relationship.
Term
ahermytic coral
Definition
no algae needed, no photosynthesis, not reef building, soft and move/sway in current, live in deep water.
Term
barrier reefs
Definition
separated from island or mainland shore by a deep channel or lagoon
Term
atoll reefs
Definition
circular and continuous coral reefs and circle around a lagoon without a central island
Term
fringing reefs
Definition
attached to the shore of a continent or island
Term
factors controlling coral growth
Definition
temperature (prefers warm temps 65-90 degrees)
salinity (prefers salt water)
depth (too deep means not enough light)
very low turbidity (no sediment blocking light)
Term
coral reef symbiosis
Definition
most reef-building corals(hermatypic) have a mutually beneficial symbiotic relationship with algae. The coral provides the algae with a protected environment and the compounds necessary for photosynthesis, which are metabolic waste products of the coral. In return, the algae produces oxygen and helps the coral remove waste.
Term
threats to coral reefs
Definition
Ocean acidification (absorption of carbon dioxide by the ocean is lowering the ocean’s PH.(ocean is basic. groundwater is acidic)

Human impacts : Destructive Terrestrial Land Use Practices (Farming/Logging), Overfishing, Construction/Dredging, Excess Sedimentation, Pollution,Invasive Species, Sand Mining, Cruise Ships/Dive Boats (Anchors/Waste Removal Systems)

warming ocean (bleaching)
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