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History of Western Dress
Chapter 5
39
Fine Art
Undergraduate 3
03/12/2009

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Term
alb
Definition

- Early Middle Ages

- Worn by priests during church services

- A long white tunic with narrow sleeves and a slit for the head, tied with a belt.

Term
amice
Definition

- Early Middle Ages

- Worn by priests during mass.

- A strip of linen placed around the shoulders and tied in position to form a collar

Term
barbette
Definition

- Early Middle Ages

- a linen band that women wore that passed down from one temple under the chin and up to the other temple

Term
bliaut
Definition

- Early Middle Ages

- Worn by men and women; courtly dress

- radical departure from customary dress

- tightly fitted one piece garment

Term
braies
Definition

- Early Middle Ages

- undergarment for men, worn next to the skin and covering the lower part of the torso and upper legs.

Term
byrnie
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- Part of military costume
- Knee length shirts of mail, split in front for riding
Term
chausses
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- Worn as military costume
- leg protectors of mail
- some covered just front of leg while others were more like hose and fitted all around.
Term
chausuble
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- Worn by priests
- An evolved form of the paenula.
- This round Roman cape was given up by the laity (all persons not in clergy), but continued to be worn by clergy in a form with sides cut shorter to allow movement of the arms.
Term
chemise
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- undergarment for both men and women worn next to the body and cut as loose, linen garment with sleeves.
- Cut longer but otherwise much like a man's undershirt.
Term
cloak
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- a type of loose garment that is worn over indoor clothing and serves the same purpose as an overcoat—it protects the wearer from the cold, rain or wind for example, or it may form part of a fashionable outfit or uniform.
- are as old as human history; there has nearly always been some form of long outer garment used to protect people from the weather.
- generally fasten at the neck or over the shoulder, vary in length, from ankle all the way up to the hip, mid-calf being the normal length. - They may have an attached hood, and may cover and fasten down the front, in which case they have holes or slits for the hands to pass through.
- almost always sleeveless.
Term
closed mantle
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- worn by men
- a length of fabric with a slit through which the head can be slipped.
Term
coif
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- a small white cap that tied under the chin
Term
cope
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- Worn by priests
- A voluminous cape that was worn for processions.
Term
cornette
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- long tube of fabric hanging down from the back of a hood
Term
cote
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- 13th Century
- under tunic worn by both men and women and placed over chemise or shirt.
- modern day coat
Term
fillet
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- Worn by women
- a standing linen band, rather like a crown, over which a viel might be draped
Term
fitchets
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- to the modern eye look like pockets, were made in some of the more voluminous outdoor garments so that one could put his hands inside for warmth or to reach a purse hung from the belt around the waist of the garment beneath.
Term
garnache
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- long cloak with capelike sleeves
Term
gartered hose
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- Hose that was held up by a garter
- narrow bands of fabric fastened about the leg, used to keep stockings up.
- Normally just a few inches in width, they are usually made of leather or heavy cloth, and adorned with small bells and/or ribbons. In the 18th to 20th centuries, they were tied just below the knee, where the leg was slenderest, to keep the stocking from slipping.
Term
girdles
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- Worn by women
- Jeweled belts
Term
hauberk
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- Part of military costume
- Knee length shirts of mail, split in front for riding.
Term
herigaut
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- cloak with long, wide sleeves having a slit below the shoulder length through which the arm could be slipped, leaving the long, full sleeve hanging behind
Term
hose
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- Worn by men
- worn to cover legs, made of woven fabric, cut and sewn to fit the leg, ending either at the knee or thigh.
Term
leg bandages
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- Worn by men
- Strips of linen or wool wrapped closely around the leg to the knee and worn either over the hose or alone.
Term
liripipe
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- same as cornette
- head covering with long, hanging tube of fabric at the back.
Term
mantle
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- cloak or cape designating high rank
Term
open mantle
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- Worn by men
- One piece of fabric that fastened on one shoulder
Term
outer tunic
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- a shirt worn on the outside of all clothing
Term
pallium
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- Worn by priests and men
- A narrow band of white wool that was worn by popes and archbishops. Prelates wore the band with one end falling to the front and the other to the back. This band evolved from the Greek himation, which lost its shawl-like form and became a narrow band that was a symbol of learning in Roman and Byzantine styles.
- (lorum) a long, narrow, heavily jeweled scarf, possibly evolved from the toga with the folded bands, that became part of the official insignia of the emporer.
Term
paludamentum
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- Worn by upper class men and Empress 
- a cloak that fastened over the right shoulder with a jeweled brooch.
Term
pelicon, pelice
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- a loose overdress or a voluminous circular cloak
- made of fur
- normally worn by women
Term
segmentae
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- square or round decorative medallions that were placed in different areas of the tunic for decoration.
Term
stole
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- Worn by priests
- A long, narrow strip of material, which was worn over the shoulder during mass.
Term
surcote
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- 13th Century
- Worn by men
- Outer tunic placed over cote (undertunic) and linen chemise (undershirt)
Term
tabard
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- originally a short, loose garment with short or no sleeves that was worn by monks and lower-class men.
- later became part of military dress
Term
under tunic
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- a shirt worn on the inside of all clothing
Term
wimple
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- Worn by women
- fine white linen or silk scarf that covered the neck, the center placed under the chin and each end pulled up and fastened above the ear or at the temple.
Term
winter mantle
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- Worn by women
- Mantles lined with fur
Term
chainse
Definition
- Early Middle Ages
- 12th Century
- Worn by upper-class women
- Distinctive outer-garment, made of washable material, probably linen, it was long and seems to have been pleated.
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