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17th Century Time Period & Location |
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- A century of social and political upheavals...civil wars, religious persecution, revolts, peasant discontent, etc.
- Period of the Thirty Year War in Germany
- Encompasses most of the Baroque era.
- The Baroque style was lavish, ornamentation... free and flowing lines.. massive as opposed to delicate
- All countries of Western Europe at that time.
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~Absolute Monarchy was generally the rule. - ruling by Divine Right
~France - Louis XIV (Sun King)
~England - James I (Divine Right of Kings)
~Charles I came to rule
~Charles II took the throne
~Russia - Peter the Great
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~Growth in Trade and Business |
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~Growth of Trade continues. This develops to the Far East. Japan closes its trade to Europe
~Formation of the East India Company |
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~Catholics and Protestants co-existed.
~Catholic church’s Counter-Reformation... where they persecuted the Protestants
~Puritans were a group in England who opposed certain ‘Roman’ rituals and attempted to ‘clean up’ the church. |
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~Baroque Style... was curvilinear and massive
~Artists: Rubens, Hals, Rembrandt, Vermeer, Van Dyck, Poussin and Valasquez
~Literature: Cervantes, Milton, Moliere
~Music: Bach, Handel’s early beginnings
Architecture - Christopher Wren |
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~Newton, 1684 Theories of Motion
~Galileo, 1632 Theories of Astronomy |
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Styles of Clothing - influenced by Groups
Puritans - plain or ‘sad’ colors, high crowned hats
Cavalier or Royalist sympathizers - broad brimmed plumed hats
Aprons became a fashion for Puritans and Cavalier’s
Spanish - farthingale (Spanish - verdugado), mantilla (veil)
Women
soft gowns with floppy lace collars, lace cuffs
bodices and skirts usually separate
skirts and petticoats
Men
called cavaliers, gentlemen fops
loose fitting garments, decorated with many ornaments
high boots, (floppy topped), hose with lace cuffs, plumed hats |
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Men
Tunic, pourpoint, doublet >>> vest or waistcoat
justaucorps or jerkin >>> jacket or coat (Habit in French)
Women
tunic >>>cotte or dress
kirtle>>> petticoat
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- Cotton Chintz - a handpainted or printed fabric, sometimes with a glaze
- Cotton Calicoes - small printed fabrics (Calcutta, India)
- Bengal Muslin
- Brocades, velvets, embroidered velvets, satins, damasks, cloth of gold.
- Colors were bright.
- Fabrics richly decorated with pearl’s, gold, etc.
- Demand for cotton was so high that smuggling and evasion of laws occurred (Tortora
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Moved towards a vertical line later in the 16th century and into the 17th century
Men dressed with great ornamentation.
Women were narrow shoulders, small waist, full hips.
Silhouette became more fitted. |
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Doublet/Pourpoint- A close-fitting jacket, with or without sleeves, worn by European men between the 15th and 17th centuries. |
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A sleeveless garment, often having buttons down the front, worn usually over a shirt or blouse and sometimes as part of a three-piece suit. |
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a fitted, knee-length coat, characterized by wide turned-back cuffs and stiff flared skirts, worn especiallyby men in the 17th and 18th centuries. |
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a knee-length, narrow-sleeved, light outer garment of linen and lace, worn by prelates in some ceremonies |
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Rhinegraves/ Petticoat Breeches |
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Petticoat breeches were voluminously wide, pleated pants, reminiscent of a skirt, worn by men |
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Short trousers fastened just below the knee, now chiefly worn for riding a horse or as part of ceremonial dress. |
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Spanish slops/ Full slops |
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short full breeches worn by men in the 16th century |
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A belt for a sword or other piece of equipment, worn over one shoulder and reaching down to the opposite hip. |
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[image]A garment for the upper body made of cloth, with a collar, sleeves, and buttons down the front. |
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Falling Bands/ Band Strings |
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A collar with rectanglar points falling over the chest, |
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A full-length garment of a single color worn by certain Christian clergy |
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a loose cloak, coat, or robe, A loose gown or cloak worn by women.. |
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An ornamental frill or ruffle on the front of a shirt or blouse, typically made of lace. |
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a cravat with long hanging ends loosely twisted or looped together and worn esp. in the 18th century by men and women |
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Thigh-high riding boot with cup-shaped wide top, square toes and higher heels than the jackboot
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A long dress, typically having a close-fitting bodice and a flared or flowing skirt, worn on formal occasions. |
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a low-cut neckline on a woman's dress |
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A hooped petticoat or circular pad of fabric around the hips, worn under women's skirts to extend and shape them
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A woman's tightly fitting undergarment extending from below the chest to the hips, worn to shape the figure. |
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A V-shaped piece of decorative cloth, worn over the chest and stomach in the 16th century |
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unbuttoned lower part of sleeves which hang down, sometimes to ankle length
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a fitted, knee-length coat, characterized by wide turned-back cuffs and stiff flared skirts, worn especiallyby men in the 17th and 18th centuries.
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a woman's kerchief or shawl, generally triangular in shape, worn draped over the shoulders or around theneck with the ends drawn together on the breast.
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A fan-shaped (especially lace) collar, standing upright behind the head and sloping down to meet a square neckline in front.
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Nine to 18 inches of fabric or lace attached all around neckline (or yoke). May or may not reveal the shoulders
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a woman's cap with two long flaps pinned on.
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Palatine, Pelerines, Tippet |
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A woman's cape of lace or silk with pointed ends at the center front
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A highly styled wig worn formerly as a fashionable headdress by both women and men
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A curl of hair worn on the temple or forehead.
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A fontange is the name of a headdress popular in the late seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries in France
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A person who rides the leading left-hand horse of a team or pair drawing a coach or carriage
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A piece of cloth or other material used to mend or strengthen a torn or weak point. |
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A tube made of fur or other warm material into which the hands are placed for warmth.
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A stout glove with a long loose wrist. |
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justacourp pattern[image]
An outer garment worn outdoors, having sleeves and typically extending below the hips.
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A vest, esp. one worn by men over a shirt and under a jacket.
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Short trousers fastened just below the knee, now chiefly worn for riding a horse or as part of ceremonial dress
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A garment for the upper body made of cloth, with a collar, sleeves, and buttons down the front. |
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A man's double-breasted, long-skirted coat, now worn chiefly on formal occasions.
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- A woman's long coat with a cutaway or contrasting front.
- A man's double-breasted topcoat with a full skirt.
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an 18th century wig with a long plait in back that is tied top and bottom with bows
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a black hair wig carried in a small silk bag.
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A diamond or other gem set in a piece of jewelry by itself. |
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cocked hat with the brim turned up to form three points
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- A garment similar to leggings, worn to cover or protect the ankle and lower leg.
- A shoe or overshoe extending to the ankle or above.
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A long dress, typically having a close-fitting bodice and a flared or flowing skirt, worn on formal occasions.
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having back pleats falling loosely from neckline to hem
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Robe a la Francaise, Robe a la Anglaise
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an elaborate short-sleeved overdress with a fitted waist and a draped cutaway overskirt. |
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Dresses open in front to show an underskirt or with a front gore of contrasting material, with collar and lapels and long sleeves. Bodice may be double-breasted and high-waisted
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A fashionable dress for women, introduced about 1780. It was satirized by Horace Walpole as resembling “a man's night-gown bound round with a belt
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Panniers or side hoops are women's undergarments worn in the 18th century to extend the width of theskirts at the side while leaving the front and back relatively flat.
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- A woman's tightly fitting undergarment extending from below the chest to the hips, worn to shape the figure.
- A similar garment worn by men or women to support a weak or injured back.
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a gathered flounce, frill, or ruffle or |
a furbelow or puckered flounce for decorating dresses |
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a wide, bell-shaped sleeve popular in the 1860s, worn over an engageante or false undersleeve. |
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A piece of cloth extending up from the neckline, theoretically to protect the wearer's modesty, often used to tastefully draw... |
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- A woman's cloak with armholes or sleeves, reaching to the ankles.
- A fur-lined cloak, esp. as part of a hussar's uniform.
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a woman's large folded hooped hood; worn in the 18th century
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