Term
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Definition
| Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Kyrgyzstan, and Tajikistan |
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Term
| What was the significance of the Silk Road to textiles of Central Asia? |
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Definition
| Silk road influenced technologies (silk, music, glass, paper, guns, science)and religion |
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Term
| What plant motif was the most significant and stylized in Central Asian textiles? |
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Definition
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Term
| What textile and textile process are most indicative of Central Asian textiles? |
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Definition
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Term
| Name at least 4 distinct areas with specialized designs done in ikat: describe the differences. |
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Definition
Uzbek: cotton wefted adras ikat
Tadjik: silk and satin ikat
Bukhara: velvet ikat.
Tashkent: silk ikat woven chapan. |
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Term
| What is a chrypy and who used it; what were the differences in use related to age? |
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Definition
Chyrpy: head cover with vestigial sleeves
sleeves worn over head like a cape, dark blue fabric for young women.
yellow: middle age
white: older |
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Term
| What was the difference in textile use between rural and urban Central Asians? |
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Definition
Urban: ikat, refined, and silk layers.
Rural: Felt, sturdy-kilim weaves coarse fiber. |
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Term
| What made use of felt different in C. Asia from how it was used in Mongolia / Sythian culture? |
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Definition
| Central Asia used felt to decorate their animals. felt used for interior decoration (rugs, bags, mats) relates to the yurt |
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Term
Describe the different types of coats worn in C. Asia and the textile process
differences/similarities. |
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Definition
Chyrpy: they are made from cotton and silk with embroidery
Chapan: silk ikat woven, men’s winter coat
Mantle: Woman’s mantle,specifically a Chyrpy, women's mantles are typically embroidered, by women, with small motifs in silk thread |
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Term
Describe the life style differences between Urban and Nomadic (rural) C. Asians and how this
influenced textile use and decoration. |
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Definition
Urban:Ikat luxury textiles = high status19th cent, Wealthy woman wearing ikat,
refined, silk in layers:Rug over door is remaining tradition of nomadic heritage.
Nomadic: wear wealth,Plain clothes for travel, Hats tell tribe membership, Camels /livestock often more décor than people |
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Term
| Name the different types of carpets/storage bags’ design and textile creation processes. |
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Definition
Decorative storage bags: sturdy-kilim weaves coarse fibers (wool felted)
Bags to carry china: embroidered cloth, leather decorated, hooked design, stylized pomegranate, solar symbols,
Saddle bags: kilim and knotted pile
Salt bag: felted and appliqued
Feed bag pouch |
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Term
| What was the difference between main gift cloth of Korea compared to that of Japan? |
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Definition
Korean gift cloth:pojagi/bojagi-- Pieced together, made of recycled fabrics, sheer, asymmetrical
*Japanese Gift Cloth: E-kasuri--woven pictures, used for wedding gifts in rural areas |
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Term
| What did the garments of Korea and Japan have in common, what was the difference? |
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Definition
Similarities: both use embroidery
Differences: Korean garments were made up of a jacket and skirt while Japanese dress was 1 to 12 layers of robes and a sash |
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Term
| What time period of Japan had the most extreme layering of garments in lavish textiles? |
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Definition
| Junihitoe Heian Period (1100’s); the female dress set consisted of 12 layers to symbolize wealth and emperor/higher court status |
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Term
| Evidence of textile use in Japan dates to what time period? |
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Definition
| Muromachi Period 1336-1573 |
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Term
| Who are the Ainu and what made their textiles special, unique? |
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Definition
Ainu people are fishermen who spun bast fibers such as elm tree bark, nettles
New design aesthetic-mazes to confuse evil spirits, Design elements interlock
recall scales of fish ,Pointed “Thorns” ward off evil ,Bast fibers, itchy to wear |
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Term
| What is a pojagi/bojagi and who made it and how? |
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Definition
| Pojagi/bojagi is a traditional Korean wrap cloth using shear scraps of fabrics in an abstract patchwork design. Often used as aprons, wall hanging, gift wraps, and baby carriers. Pojagi were made and used only by common people, specifically the woman of the household. |
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Term
| What are the processes of textile creation/decoration we studied for Japan (give detail)? |
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Definition
1. Katazome -stencil(katagomi) with rice paste (yuzen)
2. E-kasuri-- creating woven pictures, picture box form of kasuri
3. Shibori--3D aesthetic by folding, bunching, wrapping, stitching, and swirling the fabric before dying
4. Kasuri-double ikat (used as dowry textiles), tie kasuri resist onto the warp/weft yarns before weaving to create patterns, |
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Term
| What European influence was used as an example of exposure to Christianity in Japan? |
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Definition
| Christianity also influenced the style of the samurai attire during the Momoyama period: incorporation of the “hidaeri ruff” |
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Term
| Describe the changes in dress stimulated by the Samurai class in Japan. |
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Definition
With their values of austerity and frugality, influenced by Zen Buddhism, the samurai class mixed the previous court and commoners dress. Simplified motifs and heavy armour for men.
Women wore the kosode, the under-kimono, with free style patterns and motifs of plants and animals in seasonal and auspicious combinations |
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Term
| Describe the types of theater and how textiles were used, attained in each. |
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Definition
1. Noh theater--costumes were donated by rich samurai and wealthy patrons of the arts and used only by men (men acted both male and female roles); costumes tell the scene and settings Formal Costumes: Brocades, real gold & silver, expensive robes
Kimonos masks, headdresses,fans etc
2. Kyogen theater--costumes are humorous, consisted of puns, and had weather motifs; costumes are rural and hand painted, costumes became a ‘set’ design worn on actor |
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Term
| Describe how kimonos were made and the fibers used throughout Japan for kimonos. |
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Definition
Kimonos were made from one long narrow length of fabric, often cotton or silk.
Some methods of production:
1. Yuzen (rice paste) dyed
2. Shibori--fabric dying by folding, tying, stitching, bunching, and wrapping
Fibers used: silk, linen, wool
Katazome resist by stencil (silk screen) |
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Term
| Describe the textiles studied at the UCD design collection—what time periods, methods, fibers, who would wear/use them. |
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Definition
Pojagi-patchwork with seams finished by folding over, asymmetrical shapes and colors; common people, woman of the house
Shibori doorway screen-3d extreme tie-dye
Furoshiki-wrap or carry specialty cloth; tsutsugaki: rice paste by hand, vat dyed indigo, spun slub (means it is not smooth) yarn for fabric
Kasuri (Ikat) Katagami/ Katazome hand cut stencil
Kasuri/Shibori bags-hand painted
Buddhist Kesa-patched of brocades
Kosode Kimono-kosode (short hanging sleeve); ikat dyed and hand painted motifs
Fireman’s Jacket-designs are woven in
Korean Wedding Dress (Hanbok)-machine print brown, hand paint blue; traditional short jacket and long skirt |
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Term
| What do the textiles of Indochina have in common with the dress groups of rural China? |
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Definition
| wrapped garments+fitted jacket, |
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Term
| What do the textiles of Indochina have in common with the textiles of Bhutan? |
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Definition
| Similarities in weave patterns = shared influences from India, and China + the use of supplementary weft methods. |
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Term
| What do the textiles of Indochina have in common with the textiles of India? |
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Definition
Wrap worn by women in Thailand is similar to that of Indian women
Pants worn by men and women in Thailand (seen in design museum), the patola in Cambodia-use of double ikat and pallu with ground, zari border on Laos textile, |
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Term
| What methods of textile surface design was used most frequently and advanced in Indochina? |
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Definition
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Term
| What court textiles did we view in Indochina? (see website in lecture) |
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Definition
Maroon & pink ikat/gold supplementary weft, male element-metallic
Ikat, warp stripes, supplementary weft, male element-metallic
Weft ikat in wide red and black stripes-supplemetary weft inside rectangles between weft stripes
Weft ikat stripes, weft stripes, supplementary weft in stripes
Thailand pants-for men and women; embroidery on plain weave; indigo dyed pants-shape of Salwar (loose, pajama-like trousers) from India
Sarong(skirt)-Cambodia 1930s; patola-silk double (warp & weft) ikat w/ borders and grid |
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Term
| What textile from Part 1 of class was from Thailand that related to this lecture? |
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Definition
| The singing shawl: in this lecture, we learned it is worn by the Pwo Karen people |
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Term
Describe the ways textile historians detect use of fabrics in ancient cultures when extant
textiles are not actually found. |
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Definition
writings
sculpture
paintings |
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Term
| Name & describe the cultural significance of the color red in textiles for 3 cultures that we learned about in lecture. |
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Definition
India - weddings/fertility
China - good luck
Africa- power, royalty |
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Term
| What did the 2nd part of 8,000 Years of Ornament cover regarding motifs? |
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Definition
| leaf borders, leaf scrolls, acanthus(flowerlike), indian lotus(motif in Buddhist art), twists, plaits, interlacing, geometrics as ornaments |
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Term
| What types of looms were used historically for rural textiles? For court textiles? |
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Definition
| rural: back strap, upright/vertical, pit loom; court: jacquard |
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Term
| What did the V & A describe about textiles from India related to the East India Trading Co.? |
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Definition
| From about 1775 Kashmir shawls were acquired by travelers, explorers, military personnel and members of the East India Company who appreciating their beauty and warmth, brought them back as presents |
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Term
Name 7 different types of fibers we studied in lecture (not including textbook) used
historically in the countries for this test. |
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Definition
silk
cotton
wool
metal
nettle
linen?
ramie
hemp? |
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Term
| three reasons from bohart museum: why did we go there/why was it important? |
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Definition
it was pojagi
marking the entrance to museum
the way it was hung, lights go through the sheerness of the pojagi
it was designed for that specific space
similar insects could be grouped together on one cloth
mirrored the artwork on the walls
took advantage of the industrial looking space for hanging them |
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Term
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Definition
japan
1900s
tsutsugaki: rice paste resist
furoshiki: wrap gift cloth
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Term
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Definition
Korea
1981
wedding outfit
chima: skirt
chogon: jacket
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Term
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Definition
20th century
block print in traditional madder red with mordant turning black during dye process--
made for travelers yet with authentic processes dating back to BC India |
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Term
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Definition
21st century dress from pakistan
beaded grid motif |
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Term
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Definition
late 1800's early 1900's Groom's dragon robe (emperor would be Yellow background)--
auspicious symbols in weaving including: thunder disc, crane, conch, scrolls |
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Term
men's formal coat
gold with silk ikat lining |
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Definition
Khalat: coat
uzbek
1800s
cotton and metallic top, hand woven trim, silk ikat lining |
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Term
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Definition
Sample size textile made in 2011 by expert weavers at the women's weaving cooperative in Paro, Bhutan. Notice mix of supplementary weft, continuous and discontinuous, as well as unique warp wrapping termed "thrima" and which looks like embroidery from the top. website 'the curious weaver' has an amazing youtube of this process in action. Kaino's collection. |
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Term
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Definition
1900s Burma (now Myanmar) mans shirt with supplementary weft weave pink added to the black plain weave--cotton--woven in narrow panels such as made with back tension looms |
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