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planning, procuring, controlling, inspecting and delivery of end products from external companies; used to gain competitive advantage, reduce costs; utilizes a wider variety of resources |
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"to make"; 90% of US apparel is imported |
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manufactured in the country it sells in, but not necessarily by the same company; improved communication and turn around time, lower inspection costs and no import costs; LA is #1 manufacturing city in US, NY #2 |
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predominant model for acquisition of apparel production; lower costs, expertise and or availability + labor |
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means to broaden the brand without making a new product; Trademark program |
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the contractor owns and is responsible until the goods are loaded onto the truck |
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Total Production Costs + Shipping Costs and Duty Charges |
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CMT (Cost, Make and Trim) |
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encompasses agreements that utilize domestic or offshore contractors for cutting, manufacturing and finishing of garments that the product developer provides the designs, patterns and fabric for |
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design , source fabric, pattern, cut, sew and package; contractor pays for everything until the merchandise is on a truck |
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27 countries operate as one internal market; retain political autonomy, common currency (except Britain), and free trade amongst member and countries that cannot economically afford to be members; contributes trends, high-priced stuff, woolen goods and a small amount of imports to the US |
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1. Right product
2. Right quantity
3. Right time
4. Right price |
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Began with lower class, acceptable in late 1800's, demanded and met by middle class, now RTW, etc. |
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fiber, yarn, fabric and some findings producers; converters dye, print and finish cloth |
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agents of the apparel manufacturing companies; sell the finished goods to retailers; sales rep sell the finished good |
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seel to consumer, traditional retailers, manufacturing retailer, NRF |
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One company owns all processes involved in creating the finished product from farm to store |
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exclusive brand within a store (Worthington - JC Penney); destination private labels create store loyalty |
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to buy goods from another country |
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to sell goods to another country |
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more imports than exports |
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limit set on the volume of product types allowed to be imported without fine |
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prohibition of importing a product or from a particular location |
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WTO (World Trade Organization) |
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replaced GATT and ATC (Agreement on Textiles and Clothing); promotion of free trade through reduction of tariff trade barriers |
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North American Free Trade Agreement |
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regional; eliminated tariffs and quotas |
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sign or symbol that distinguishes a manufacturer; registered with US patent office; copy-left-free public use |
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is distictive to a business or product |
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copies of legitimate brands; illegal |
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copy or near copy of a design under a different brand name |
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substance that adds color by absorption |
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adds color to material on the surface; not absorbed |
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Physical features of fabric |
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determine perfomance, influence aesthetics, utility durability and costs, help evaluate quality; includes fiber, yarn, fabric structure, dyes, prints and finishes |
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regenerated cellulosics, synthetics and misc. |
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aesthetic, functional, appearance retention |
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carded or combed, woolen or worsted |
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S-twist/Z-twist;
average twist = 20-30 tpi
high twist = 35-40 tpi |
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solution dye
fiber/stock dye
yarn dye
piece dye
cross dye
union dye
product dye |
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Denier (US), Tex (international) |
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drapability/flexibility
compressability
extensibility
resilience
density
surface contour |
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Functional performance of fabric |
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diemsional stability
appearance retention
comfort
ease of care
saety
strength
abrasion resistance
resistance to degradation |
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based on body measurements |
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based on garment measurements |
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ease- difference between body measurements and garment
line- how the structural lines of the garment fit to the body
grain- direction of threads
set- a smooth fit with no unwanted wrinkles |
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provide framework for quality decisions |
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very detailed and specific; exact instructions |
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power stretch- elongates more than 30% (swimsuits)
comfort stretch- elongates less than 30% (t-shirts)
elastomeric- at least 400% stretch
spandex- stretches twice as well as rubber
tailored clothing: 15-20%
spectator sportswear- 20-35%
active sportswear- 30-50% |
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bust=hips, waist 9"+ smaller than bust/hips, 8%
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bust=hips, waist 9"- smaller than bust/hips, 46% |
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hips>bust by 2", waist is less than 9" smaller than bust, 21% |
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bust>hips by 3"+, waist smaller by 9"+, 13% |
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start with the average size and build smaller and larger |
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cannot be agreed upon, doesn't exist |
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naional sizing survey, 3D body scan |
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making the numbers smaller |
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sizes differ with each store |
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petite - 5'4" or less
tall, women's plus, juniors |
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