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CTE 3763
Product Analysis and Costing
61
Other
Undergraduate 3
12/10/2009

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Term
Sourcing
Definition
planning, procuring, controlling, inspecting and delivery of end products from external companies; used to gain competitive advantage, reduce costs; utilizes a wider variety of resources
Term
Manufacture
Definition
"to make"; 90% of US apparel is imported
Term
Domestic
Definition
manufactured in the country it sells in, but not necessarily by the same company; improved communication and turn around time, lower inspection costs and no import costs; LA is #1 manufacturing city in US, NY #2
Term
Offshore
Definition
predominant model for acquisition of apparel production; lower costs, expertise and or availability + labor
Term
Domestic Licensing
Definition
means to broaden the brand without making a new product; Trademark program
Term
FOB (Free On Board)
Definition
the contractor owns and is responsible until the goods are loaded onto the truck
Term
Landed Price
Definition
Total Production Costs + Shipping Costs and Duty Charges
Term
CMT (Cost, Make and Trim)
Definition
encompasses agreements that utilize domestic or offshore contractors for cutting, manufacturing and finishing of garments that the product developer provides the designs, patterns and fabric for
Term
Full Package Suppliers
Definition
design , source fabric, pattern, cut, sew and package; contractor pays for everything until the merchandise is on a truck
Term
EU (European Union)
Definition
27 countries operate as one internal market; retain political autonomy, common currency (except Britain), and free trade amongst member and countries that cannot economically afford to be members; contributes trends, high-priced stuff, woolen goods and a small amount of imports to the US
Term
4 R's of Global Sourcing
Definition

1. Right product

2. Right quantity

3. Right time

4. Right price

Term
Apparel industry
Definition
Began with lower class, acceptable in late 1800's, demanded and met by middle class, now RTW, etc.
Term
Textile Industry
Definition
fiber, yarn, fabric and some findings producers; converters dye, print and finish cloth
Term
Wholesale Reps
Definition
agents of the apparel manufacturing companies; sell the finished goods to retailers; sales rep sell the finished good
Term
Retailers
Definition
seel to consumer, traditional retailers, manufacturing retailer, NRF
Term
Verticle Integration
Definition
One company owns all processes involved in creating the finished product from farm to store
Term
Private Label
Definition
exclusive brand within a store (Worthington - JC Penney); destination private labels create store loyalty
Term
Import
Definition
to buy goods from another country
Term
Export
Definition
to sell goods to another country
Term
Trade deficit
Definition
more imports than exports
Term
Tariff
Definition
tax on imported goods
Term
Quota
Definition
limit set on the volume of product types allowed to be imported without fine
Term
Embargo
Definition
prohibition of importing a product or from a particular location
Term
WTO (World Trade Organization)
Definition
replaced GATT and ATC (Agreement on Textiles and Clothing); promotion of free trade through reduction of tariff trade barriers
Term
North American Free Trade Agreement
Definition
regional; eliminated tariffs and quotas
Term
Trademark
Definition
sign or symbol that distinguishes a manufacturer; registered with US patent office; copy-left-free public use
Term
Trade dress
Definition
is distictive to a business or product
Term
Counterfeit
Definition
copies of legitimate brands; illegal
Term
Knockoff
Definition
copy or near copy of a design under a different brand name
Term
Dye
Definition
substance that adds color by absorption
Term
Pigment
Definition
adds color to material on the surface; not absorbed
Term
Physical features of fabric
Definition
determine perfomance, influence aesthetics, utility durability and costs, help evaluate quality; includes fiber, yarn, fabric structure, dyes, prints and finishes
Term
Natural Fibers
Definition
proteins and cellulosics
Term
Manufactured Fibers
Definition
regenerated cellulosics, synthetics and misc.
Term
Fabric performance
Definition
aesthetic, functional, appearance retention
Term
Spun Yarns
Definition
carded or combed, woolen or worsted
Term
Yarn twist
Definition

S-twist/Z-twist;

average twist = 20-30 tpi

high twist = 35-40 tpi

Term
Fiber dyeing
Definition

solution dye

fiber/stock dye

yarn dye

piece dye

cross dye

union dye

product dye

Term
Fiber size
Definition
Denier (US), Tex (international)
Term
Types of yarn
Definition
Staple, Filament, Fancy
Term
Effects of Hand
Definition

drapability/flexibility

compressability

extensibility

resilience

density

surface contour

Term
Functional performance of fabric
Definition

diemsional stability

appearance retention

comfort

ease of care

saety

strength

abrasion resistance

resistance to degradation

Term
Sizing
Definition
based on body measurements
Term
Fit
Definition
based on garment measurements
Term
5 elements of fit
Definition

ease- difference between body measurements and garment

line- how the structural lines of the garment fit to the body

grain- direction of threads

set- a smooth fit with no unwanted wrinkles

Term
Standards
Definition
provide framework for quality decisions
Term
Open specs
Definition
basic facts
Term
Closed specs
Definition
very detailed and specific; exact instructions
Term
Tolerances
Definition
variations allowed
Term
Stretch
Definition

power stretch- elongates more than 30% (swimsuits)

comfort stretch- elongates less than 30% (t-shirts)

elastomeric- at least 400% stretch

spandex- stretches twice as well as rubber

tailored clothing: 15-20%

spectator sportswear- 20-35%

active sportswear- 30-50%

Term
Body shapes - Hourglass
Definition

bust=hips, waist 9"+ smaller than bust/hips, 8%

 

Term
Body shapes - Rectangle
Definition
bust=hips, waist 9"- smaller than bust/hips, 46%
Term
Body Shape - Spoon
Definition
hips>bust by 2", waist is less than 9" smaller than bust, 21%
Term
Body shape - Triangle
Definition
bust>hips by 3"+, waist smaller by 9"+, 13%
Term
Grading sizes
Definition
start with the average size and build smaller and larger
Term
Standardized sizing
Definition
cannot be agreed upon, doesn't exist
Term
Size USA
Definition
naional sizing survey, 3D body scan
Term
Vanity Sizing
Definition
making the numbers smaller
Term
Size migration
Definition
sizes differ with each store
Term
Female sizing
Definition

petite - 5'4" or less

tall, women's plus, juniors

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