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Cosmetic Products and Ingredients
From Salon Fundamentals Esthetics Textbook
60
Chemistry
Professional
01/23/2013

Additional Chemistry Flashcards

 


 

Cards

Term
Ph
Definition

"Potential Hudrogen" The unit of measurement that indicates whether a substance is acidic, neutral, or alkaline

 

Term
Alkaline
Definition

Term used to describe a base. The release of hydroxide ions that are negatively charged (-) results in a base product (red litmus turns blue)

 

Term
Logarithmic
Definition

Each step increases by multiples of 10

 

Term
pH Balanced
Definition
The pH is balances at a certain level, but not necessarily at 4.5 -5.5
Term
Acid Balanced
Definition
Balanced within pH range 4.5 - 5.5
Term
Acid Mantle
Definition
Protective barrier created by mixture of sebum and sweat combining with lipids, minerals, & moisture
Term
Hard Water
Definition
may contain salts such as calcium & magnesium
Term
Soft Water
Definition
Contains very few minerals, created by use of a water-filtration unit
Term
Mixture
Definition
Formed when 2 or more compounds are blended together physically rather than chemically, creating a new overall product but still tetaining separate chemical characteristics of the compounds blended
Term
Solution
Definition
a mixture of 2 or more chemicals in which each component is evenly distributed in the mixture to form a complete & homogenous dispersion
Term
Solvent
Definition
the liquid part of a solution
Term
Solute
Definition

Solid or dissolved part of a solution

 

Term
Saturation Point
Definition
when a solute will no longert dissolve evenly in the solvent
Term
Miscible
Definition

solvents that easily mix together

 

Term
Immiscible
Definition
Solvents that dont easily mix with each other
Term
Suspension
Definition
the even dispersion of a solid substance in a liquid base
Term
Gel
Definition
product formulated with thickening agents to increase viscosity
Term
Powder
Definition
finely ground solid mixed evenly with additional ingredinets, in some cases includes oil
Term
Ointment
Definition

Anhydrous (without water) substance based on a mixture of oils & waxes, normally having the texture of a paste (thick& heavy)

 

Term
Stick
Definition
Hard, low water (or anhydrous) product applied to the sking by rubbing the product directly on the desired area
Term
Aerosol
Definition
Product packaged under pressure and blended with proepllent (gas) inside a container, which is usually a can
Term
Emulsion
Definition
Misture of 2 or more non-mixable (immiscible) substances, such as oil & water, united by small droplets of a binder (emulsifier) or gum-like subsatnce
Term
Emulsifier
Definition

Chemical structure of a polar and non-polar end allows compatibility with both water and oil. Binds molecules tothether, blends ingredients, protects stability of product, changes viscosity, extends shelf-life up to 3 years

 

Ex: Carbomer, Stearamide, Ceth-20, Polyethelene Glycol, Besswax, Polysorbate

Term
Cremes and lotions
Definition
(most common) emulsions used to impart emmoliency (oil) & moisturizatin (water) to skin
Term
Active Ingredients
Definition
Ingredients responsible for producing the desired effect
Term
Humectants
Definition
Organic ingredients that bind water and deposit it into the skin
Term
Emollients
Definition
oils & oil soluable substances used to condidtion and soften the skin by providing a proctctive coating called an Occlusive Barrier
Term
Fatty Acids
Definition
come from both plant and animal sources, commonly used in cosmetic products such as cremes and lotions to keep them firm but soft, and easy to apply
Term
Fatty Alcohols
Definition
Fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen
Term
Surfactants
Definition
used in most cleansing products/detergents, have ability to bind a wide range of organic and inorganic matter to water
Term
Viscosity Modifiers
Definition
(thickeners) ingredients that help increase density in emulsions and gel-typer products
Term
Botanicals
Definition
general classification for a wide variety of natural or naturally derived ingredients extraced from plants (anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, anti-bacterial, anti-irritants)
Term
Preservatives
Definition
Maintain microbiological integrity or product quality during manufacturing, storage & use by consumer
Term
Chelating Agents
Definition
ingredients added to a product to enhance the effectiveness of the preservative (Disodium EDTA)
Term
Coloring Agents
Definition

vegetable, mineral, or pigment dyes added to enhance product's appearance (not usually in skincare products but in cosmetics)

 

Term

 

 

Fragrance

Definition
complex blends of many essential oils and other compounds to create unique scents
Term
Hypoallergenic
Definition
product is less likely to provoke an allergic reaction (no color, no fragrance, no dyes)
Term
Antibacterial
Definition

destroys bacteria that can cause problems such as scne or other infections 

such as: preservatives, Benzoyl Peroxide, Salicylic Acid, Hydrogen Peroide, Azelaic Acid, Camphor, Sulfur, Menthol

 

and botanicals such as: tea tree oil, lavendar oil, etc.

 

Term
pH Adjustors
Definition

used to adjust the product pH to a desired level

 

such as: citric acid, malic acid, sodium hydroxide, triethanol amine

Term
Comedogenicity
Definition
tendency to clog
Term
Comedogenic
Definition
ingredients likely to lock or clog pores and contribute to pimples
Term
Antioxidants
Definition

prevent skin inflammation & damage due to free radicals

Vitamin C derivitives (Ascorbic Acid) - Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Palmitate

Vitamin A dreivitive - Tretinoin (Retin-A)

Vitamin E derivative - Ticopherol (Vitamin E Acetate) and Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA)

Highly unstable products & must be protected from air, heat & light by manufacturing and storing under specific conditions

Term
Free Radicals 
Definition
chemically unstable molecules, caused by environmental pollutants & UV exposure
Term
Alpha Lipoic Acid
Definition

helps aging cells increase energy production, provide anti-oxidant, anti-imflammatory benefits, enhances cell's ability to repair damage

pioneered by Dr. Perricone

Term
Co-enzyme Q-10
Definition

CoQ10 (Ubiquinone)

Powerful anti-oxidant occuring naturally in human cells.  Aids in production of cellular energy

As an ingredient, it aids in circulaion, stimulates immune system, increases issue oxygenation and improves appearance of aging

Term
Silicones
Definition
ingredients derived from a silicone base- unlike petrolatum derivitieves, they are free of contaminants and environmentally friendly, act by laying a mesh-like pattern of waterproof molecules over the skin, allowing oxygen to penetrate, keeping water inside, enhances barrieer properties w/o being comedogenic or leaving a film
Term
Cyclomethicone
Definition

non-comedogenic emollient that gives a silky feel

 

Term
Dimethicone
Definition
Gives products lubricity, or "slip"
Term
Dimethicone copolyol
Definition
makes products feel soft, esp. sunscreens
Term
Hydroxy Acids
Definition

smooth, soften, brighten appearance, remove blemishes & hyperpigmentation by speeding up exfoliation of the surface of the stratum corneum

 

organic acids extracted from a variety of natural sources including:

fruits - Malic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Citric Acid, Glycolic Acid

milk - Lactic Acids

Term
Alpha Hydroxy Acid
Definition

(AHA) 

Glycolic and Lactid Acids

carboxyl group located on the 1st carbon atom of organic acid chain

Term
Beta Hydroxy Acid
Definition

(BHA) Salicylic Acid

carboxyl group located on the 2nd carbon atom of the organic acid chain

Term
Poly Hydroxy Acid
Definition

Malic Acid

several carboxyl groups in the same chain

Term
Enzymes
Definition
designed to dissove Keratin proteins on the surface of skin, resulting in exfoliation nd sofet, smoother skin
Term
Kinetin
Definition
essential growth factor that prevents premature aging and partially reverses damage due to UV exposure
Term
Vitamins
Definition

antioxidant Vitamins A, C, E deliver variety of benefits to the skin

B1 (Thiamine) -helps heal tissue

B5 (Panthenol or Pantothenic Acid) - strengthens skin, promotes healing of cuts & flexibility of scar tissue

Vitamin K (incl Phylloquinone) - ability to clot blood & many skin functions

Vitamin D (Calciferol) - can get from sun

 

**less than .5%, you should question effectiveness of product

Term
Lightners
Definition

products used to bleach or lighten areas of hyperpigmentation

*work by blocking melanin production by melanocytes in skin, taking months of continued used to deliveer effect

 

: Hydroquinone, Vitamin C, Bearberry Extract, Licorice Root, Yeast Extract, Hydroxy Acids (Lactic), Kojic Acid, Citrus Unshiu, Azelaic Acid, Rice Extract, Aspergillus Ferment, Grapefruit Extract, Paper Mulberry, Mitracarpus Scaber, Mumex (Yellow Dock), Rosmarinus Officinalis, Green TEa Extract, Yohimbe Bark 

 

Term
Cosmetics
Definition
"articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on or introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body or as part there of for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance and articles intended for use as a component of any such articles; except soap."
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