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Coastal Processes
Terms for coastal influenced formations
31
Geology
Graduate
09/14/2008

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Term
Beach
Definition
A zone of loose particles that covers part or all of the shore.
Term
Berm
Definition
a nearly horizontal plateau on the beach face or backshore, formed by the deposition of beach material by wave action or by means of a mechanical plant as part of a beach recharge scheme.
Term
Beach Scarp
Definition
A nearly vertical slope along the beach caused by wave erosion.
Term
Shore
Definition
That strip of ground bordering any body of water which is alternately exposed, or covered by tides and/or waves. A SHORE of unconsolidated material is usually called a BEACH.
Term
Coast
Definition
From shore to farthest inland ocean feature.
Term
Nearshore
Definition
Low tide to breakers.
Term
Offshore
Definition
Breakers to deep sea.
Term
Surf Zone
Definition
The nearshore zone along which the waves become breakers as they approach the shore
Term
Breaker Zone
Definition
The zone within which waves approaching the coastline commence breaking, typically in water depths of between 5 m and 10 m.
Term
Ecotone
Definition
A transition area between two adjacent ecological communities.
Term
Littoral
Definition
Of, or pertaining to, a shore, especially a seashore.
Term
Littoral Drift
Definition
Transport of large amounts of sand, gravel, and debris along the shore.
Term
Beach Drift
Definition
The lateral movement of sediments on a beach in the direction of the littoral drift.
Term
Eustatic Change
Definition
Variations in sea level that can be measured all over the world.
Term
Tombolo
Definition
A bridge of sediment that connects island to mainland.
Term
Coastal Barriers
Definition
A natural geomorphic feature that forms offshore roughly parallel to the coast
Term
Barrier Spit
Definition
An elongated dispositional sand barrier attached to a headland that partially crosses the mouth of a bay creating a lagoon.
Term
Bay Barrier
Definition
When a bank of sand or shingle extends all the way across a bay from headland to headland, bay is completely cut off from ocean.
Term
Barrier Island
Definition
A sand bar in the form of an island not attached to the headland not spanning from the headland.
Term
Coastal Inlets
Definition
A small indentation in a coastline, and is usually a relatively narrow channel of pocket of water that leads inland.
Term
Lagoons
Definition
Long, shallow bodies of water with very restricted exchange with the sea, minimal tidal flux and no significant freshwater inflow.
Term
Deltas
Definition
Land masses formed for alluvial deposits of sand, silt, mud and other particles at the mouth of a river.
Term
Estuaries
Definition
An area where the mouth of a river enters the sea and freshwater and seawater intermix.
Term
What are THREE coastal wetlands?
Definition
Salt Marshes
Freshwater Marshes
Mangrove Swamps
Term
What are the FOUR sections of the coastal zone?
Definition
Offshore
Surf/Breaker Zone
Shore
Coast
Term
Offshore Zone
Definition
Breakers to 80km seaward
Term
Surf Zone
Definition
Breakers to Low Tide
Term
Shore Zone
Definition
Low tide to highest elevation affected by storm waves.
Term
Coastal Zone
Definition
Shore to most inland ocean features (includes tidal flux on rivers).
Term
Primary Coast
Definition
Primary coasts are areas that owe their character and appearance to processes that occur on land, such as land erosion and deposition of sediments. They are formed by the tectonic activity of earthquakes and volcanoes and by rapid sea level change.
Term
Secondary Coast
Definition
A secondary coast is a shoreline region created by processes that occur at sea, such as wave erosion, water chemistry, and coral-building marine animals.
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