183) Prior to perming / chemically relaxing the hair, perform a/an:

A) Elasticity Test

B) Match Test

C) Strand Test

D) Porosity test

Elasticity test and porosity test

Perform an analysis of the hair and scalp. Perform tests for  porosity and elasticity. Remember, this procedure requires that the hair and scalp be completely dry.

204) To create maxiumum volume in a roller set /permanent wave:

A) No stem

B) Off Stem

C) Half off Base

D) On base

[image]

ON BASE

 On base, also known as full base. For full volume, the roller sits directly on its base. Overdirect (higher than 90 degrees) the strand slightly in front of the base, and roll the hair down to the base. The roller should fit on the base

205) To create medium volume in a roller set /permanent wave:

A) On base

B) No stem

 C) Half off Base

D) Half Stem

[image]

HALF OFF BASE

 Half base. For medium volume, the roller sits halfway on its base and halfway behind the base. Hold the strand straight up (90 degrees) from the head and roll the hair down

206) To create the least volume in a roller set / Permanant Wave:

A) Half off Base

B) Off Base

C) On Base

D) Full Stem

[image]

OFF BASE

Off base For the least volume, the roller sits completely off the base. Hold the strand 45 degrees down from the base and roll the hair down

273) Which is not a type of Reducing Agent found in chemical relaxers:

A) Sodium Hydroxide

B) ATG

C) Guandine

D) Sodium Hypochloride

SODIUM HYDPOCHLORIDE

• Sodium hydroxide, commonly known as lye, is a very strong alkali used in chemical hair relaxers, callous softeners, and drain cleaners. These products must be used according to manufacturer’s instructions, and it is very important that you do not let the products touch or sit on the skin as they may cause injury to or a burning sensation on the skin. Sodium hydroxide products may be especially dangerous if they get into the eyes, so always wear safety glasses to avoid eye contact. 
• Because acids do not swell the hair nor penetrate into the cortex, it is necessary for manufacturers to add an alkalizing agent. The addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid produces a new chemical called ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) (uh-MOH-nee-um _  thy-oh-Gly-kuh-latt), which is alkaline and is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents. Thio relaxers use the same ATG that is used in permanent waving, but at a higher concentration and a higher PH (above 10). Thio relaxers are also thicker, with a higher viscosity, the measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows, making them more suitable for application as a relaxer
• The hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers, which are very strong alkalis with a PH over 13. Sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and guanidine hydroxide are all types of hydroxide relaxers, which can swell the hair up to twice its normal diameter. 

• Guanidine (GWAN-ih-deen) hydroxide relaxers are also advertised and sold as no-lye relaxers. Although technically they are not lye, the hydroxide ion is still the active ingredient. Guanidine hydroxide relaxers contain two components that must be mixed immediately prior to use. These relaxers straighten hair completely, with less scalp irritation than other hydroxide relaxers. Most guanidine hydroxide relaxers are recommended for sensitive scalps, and they are sold over the counter for home use. Although they reduce scalp irritation, they do not reduce hair damage. They swell the hair slightly more than other hydroxide relaxers, and they are also more drying, especially after repeated applications.

274) This is the oldest and most common type of  relaxer: 

A) Guandine

B) Sodium Hydoxide

C) Ammonium Thioycolate

D) Lithium Hypochloride

SODIUM HYDROXIDE

Sodium hpdroxide (NaOH) relaxers are commonly called lye relaxers. Sodium hydroxide is the oldest, and still the most common, type of chemical hair relaxer. Sodium hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. Sodium hydroxide is the same chemical that is used in drain cleaners and chemical hair depilatories.

275) Type of relaxer sold over-the-counter for home use, afvertised as being for "sensitive scalps", and while they reduce scalp irritation they do not reduce hair damage. In fact, they are actually more drying to the than other types of relaxers: 

A) Guandine

B) Sodium Hydoxide

C) Ammonium Thioycolate

D) Lithium Hypochloride

GUANDINE

Guanidine (GWAN-ih-deen) hydroxide relaxers are also advertised and sold as no-lye relaxers. Although technically they are not lye, the hydroxide ion is still the active ingredient. Guanidine hydroxide relaxers contain two components that must be mixed immediately prior to use. These relaxers straighten hair completely, with less scalp irritation than other hydroxide relaxers. Most guanidine hydroxide relaxers are recommended for sensitive scalps, and they are sold over the counter for home use. Although they reduce scalp irritation, they do not reduce hair damage. They swell the hair slightly more than other hydroxide relaxers, and they are also more drying, especially after repeated applications. 

276) In a chemical texture service (permanent wave or chemical relaxer), the process of reduction & oxidation is referred to as:

A) Rebox

B) Nuetralization

C) Disquamation

D) Redox

                             REDOX

Oxidation–reduction, also known as redox (ree-DOCS), is a chemical reaction in which the oxidizing agent is reduced (by losing oxygen) and the reducing agent is oxidized (by gaining oxygen). Even though the word order is reversed, redox is used as a contraction of the term oxidation-reduction.

277) Which of the following is not a type of end wrap:

A) Book-end

B) Double book-end

C) Double flat wrap

D) Single flat wrap

DOUBLE BOOK-END

o       The double flat wrap is a perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped. Both papers extend past the hair ends. This wrap provides the most control over the hair ends and also helps keep them evenly distributed over the entire length of the rod 

o       The single flat wrap is similar to the double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair 

o       The bookend wrap uses one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope. The bookend wrap eliminates excess paper and can be used with short rods or with very short lengths of hair. When using this wrap method, be careful to distribute the hair evenly over the entire length of the rod. Avoid bunching the hair in the fold of the paper—hair should be in the center—to produce an even curl 

305) Reduction occurs during which stage of the permanent wave:

A) Processing

B) Blocking

C) Neutralizing

D) Wrapping

[image]

PROCESSING

Reduction Reaction

Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction. A reduction reaction involves either the addition of hydrogen or the removal of oxygen. The reduction reaction in permanent waving is due to the addition of hydrogen. The chemical process of permanent waving involves the following reactions:

•  A disulfide bond joins the sulfur atoms in two adjacent  polypeptide chains.

•  permanent wave solution breaks a disulfide bond by adding a hydrogen atom to each of its sulfur atoms.

•  The sulfur atoms attach to the hydrogen from the permanent waving solution, breaking their attachment to each other.

•  Once the disulfide bond is broken, the polypeptide chains can form into their new curled shape. Reduction breaks disulfide bonds and oxidation reforms them. 

All permanent wave solutions contain a reducing agent. The reducing agent commonly referred to as thio is used in permanent waving solutions. It contains a thiol (THy-ohl), which is a particular group of compounds, along with carboxylic acid Thioglycolic acid (thy-oh-GLY-kuh-lik), a colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odor, is the most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions. The strength of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by the concentration of thio. Stronger perms have a higher concentration of thio, which means that more disulfide bonds are broken compared to weaker perms. Because acids do not swell the hair nor penetrate into the cortex, it is necessary for manufacturers to add an alkalizing agent. The addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid produces a new chemical called ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) (uh-MOH-nee-um _  thy-oh-Gly-kuh-layt), which is alkaline and is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents. The degree of alkalinity (pH) is a second factor in the overall strength of the waving solution. Coarse hair with a strong, resistant cuticle layer needs the additional swelling and penetration that is provided by a more alkaline waving solution. By contrast, porous hair, or hair with a damaged cuticle layer, is easily penetrated and could be damaged by a highly alkaline permanent waving solution. The alkalinity of the perm solution should correspond to the resistance, strength, and porosity of the cuticle layer

306) Oxidation occurs during which stage of the permanent wave or chemical relaxer process:

A) Processing

B) Blocking

C) Neutralizing

D) Wrapping

NEUTRALIZING

In permanent waving, thio neutralization stops the action of the waving solution and rebuilds the hair into its new curly form. Neutralization performs two important functions:

• Any waving solution that remains in the hair is deactivated (neutralized).

• Disulfide bonds that were broken by the waving solution are rebuilt. The neutralizers used in permanent waving are oxidizers. In fact, the term neutralizer is not accurate because the chemical reaction involved is actually oxidation. The most common neutralizer is hydrogen peroxide. Concentrations vary between 5 volume (1.5 percent) and 10 volume (3 percent).

307) The primary reducing agent in most alkaline permanent waves is:

A) Glycerl Monothioglycolate

B) Ammonium Thioglycolate

C) Guanidine

D) Sodium Hypochloride

AMMONIUM THIOGLYCOLATE 

Thioglycolic acid (thy-oh-GLy-kuh-lik), a colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odor, is the most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions. The strength of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by the concentration of thio 

Stronger perms have a higher concentration of thio, which means that more disulfide bonds are broken compared to weaker perms. Because acids do not swell the hair nor penetrate into the cortex, it is necessary for manufacturers to add an alkalizing agent. The addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid produces a new chemical called ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) (uh-MOH-nee-um thy-oh-GLy-kuh-layt), which is alkaline and is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents.

308) The primary reducing agent in most acid permanent waves is:

A) Glycerl Monothioglycolate

B) Ammonium Thioglycolate

C) Guanidine

D) Sodium Hydroxide

GLYCERL MONOTHIOGLYCOLATE

Acid Waves

Glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)

(GLIS-ur-il mon-oh-thY-oh-Gly-koh-laYt) is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions. It has a low pH. Although it is the primary reducing agent in all acid waves, it may not be the only one. Most acid waves also contain ATG, just like a cold wave. Although the low pH of acid waves may seem ideal, repeated exposure to GMTG is known to cause allergic sensitivity in both hairstylists and clients.

309) ______________ is the primary reducing agent in most Alkaline perms:

A) Glycerl Monothioglycolate

B) Ammonium Thioglycolate / ATG

C) Guanidine

D) Sodium Hydroxide

AMMONIUM THIOGLYCOLATE / ATG

Thioglycolic acid (thy-oh-GLy-kuh-lik), a colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odor, is the most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions. The strength of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by the concentration of thio

Stronger perms have a higher concentration of thio, which means that more disulfide bonds are broken compared to weaker perms. Because acids do not swell the hair nor penetrate into the cortex, it is necessary for manufacturers to add an alkalizing agent. The addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid produces a new chemical called ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) (uh-MOH-nee-um thy-oh-GLy-kuh-layt), which is alkaline and is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents.

310) The primary reducing agent in most relaxers: 

A) Glycerl Monothioglycolate

B) Ammonium Thioglycolate

C) Guanidine

D) Sodium Hydroxide

SODIUM HYDROXIDE

The hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers, which are very strong alkalis with a pH over 13. Sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and guanidine hydroxide are all types of hydroxide relaxers, which can swell the hair up to twice its normal diameter.

311) The approximate pH of most alkaline permanent waves is:

A) 7

B) 9.5 - 10.5

C) 8.2 - 9.6

D) 4

[image]

8.2 - 9.6

Alkaline waves, also known as cold waves, were developed in 1941, have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature without the addition  of heat

312) The approximate pH of most alkaline permanent waves neutralizers is:

A) 7

B) 9.5 - 10.5

C) 8.2 - 9.6

D) 4

4

The neutralizers used in permanent waving are oxidizers. In fact, the term neutralizer is not accurate because the chemical reaction involved is actually oxidation. The most common neutralizer is hydrogen peroxide. Concentrations vary between 5 volume (1.5 percent) and 10 volume (3 percent

313) The most common neutralizer for an alkaline permanent wave is:

A) H202

B) Sodium Bromide

C) Guanidine

D) H2O

H2O2

The neutralizers used in permanent waving are oxidizers. in fact, the term neutralizer is not accurate because the chemical reaction involved is actually oxidation. The most common neutralizer is hydrogen peroxide. Concentrations vary between 5 volume (1.5 percent) and 10 volume (3 percent).

314) The presence of this substance will leave the hair unfit for additional chemical services- such as, chemical relaxers, permanent waves, or permanent color:

A) Metallic salts / dyes

B) Aniline Derivative tints

C) Henna

D) Both A & C

METALLIC SALTS / DYES 

HENNA

Metallic Salts……….Some home hair coloring products contain metallic salts that are not compatible with permanent waving. Metallic salts leave a coating on the hair that may cause uneven curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage. Metallic salts leave a coating on the hair that may cause uneven curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage. Metallic salts are more commonly found in men’s haircolors that are sold for home use. Haircolor restorers and progressive haircolors that darken the hair gradually with repeated applications are the most likely to contain metallic salts. If you suspect that metallic salts may be present on the hair, perform the following test. In a glass or plastic bowl, mix 1 ounce of 20-volume peroxide with 20 drops of 28-percent ammonia. immerse at least 20 strands of hair in the solution for thirty minutes. If metallic salts are not present, the hair will lighten slightly and you may proceed with the service. If metallic salts are present, the hair will lighten rapidly. The solution may get hot and give off an unpleasant odor, indicating that you should not proceed with the service.

Natural haircolors, also known as vegetable haircolors, such as henna, are colors obtained from the leaves or bark of plants. They do not lighten natural hair color. The color result tends to be weak, and the process tends to be lengthy and messy. Also, shade ranges are limited. For instance, henna is usually available only in clear, black, chestnut, and auburn tones. Finally, when a client who has used natural haircolor comes to the salon for chemical haircoloring services, she may be distressed to find out that many of these chemical products cannot be applied over natural haircolors.

315) An "Endothermic" permanent wave is one that:

A) Requires heat from an outside source

B) is Highlt Alkaline

C) Generates it's own heat

D) None of the above

   REQUIRES HEAT FROM AN OUTSIDE SOURCE

An endothermic chemical reaction is one that absorbs heat from its surroundings. Endothermic waves (en-duh-THUR-mik) are activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer. Endothermic waves will not process properly at room temperature. Most true acid waves are endothermic and require the added heat of a hair dryer. 

316) An "Exothermic" permanent wave is one that:

A) Requires heat from an outside source

B) is Highly Alkaline

C) Generates it's own heat

D) None of the above

GENERATES IT'S OWN HEAT

An exothermic chemical reaction produces heat. Exothermic waves (Eks-oh-THUR-mik) create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up the processing. All exothermic waves have three components:  permanent waving solution, activator, and neutralizer. The permanent waving solution contains thio, just as in a cold wave. The activator contains an oxidizing agent (usually hydrogen peroxide) that must be added to the permanent waving solution immediately before use. Mixing an oxidizer with the permanent waving solution causes a rapid release of heat and an increase in the temperature of the solution. The increased temperature increases the rate of the chemical reaction, which shortens the processing time. 

317) These are the weakest bonds in the hair, they can be broken by heat, humidity, wind, and pressure:

A) Disulfide Bond

B) Hydrogen Bonds

C) Sulfide Bonds

D) Bearer Bonds

[image]

HYDROGEN BONDS

Side Bonds of the Cortex

The cortex is made up of millions of polypeptide chains. Polypeptide chains are cross-linked like the rungs on a ladder by three different types of side bonds that link the polypeptide chains together and are responsible for the extreme strength and elasticity of human hair. They are essential to services such as wet setting, thermal styling, permanent waving, and chemical hair relaxing. The three types of side bonds are hydrogen, salt, and disulfide bonds 

• A hydrogen bond is a weak, physical, cross-link side bond that is easily broken by water or heat. Although individual hydrogen bonds are very weak, there are so many of them that they account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength. Hydrogen bonds are broken by wetting the hair with water. That allows the hair to be stretched and wrapped around rollers. The hydrogen bonds reform when the hair dries.

•  A salt bond is also a weak, physical, cross-link side bond between adjacent polypeptide chains. Salt bonds depend on pH, so they are easily broken by strong alkaline or acidic solutions. Even though they are weak bonds, there are so many of them that they account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength. 

•  A disulfide bond (dy-SUL-fyd BAHND) is a strong, chemical, side bond that is very different from the physical side bond of a hydrogen bond or salt bond. The disulfide bond joins the sulfur atoms of two neighboring cysteine (SIS-ti-een) amino acids to create one cystine (SIS-teen). The cystine joins together two polypeptide strands. Although there are far fewer disulfide bonds than hydrogen or salt bonds, disulfide bonds are so much stronger that they also account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength. Disulfide bonds are not broken by water. They are broken by permanent waves and chemical hair relaxers that alter the shape of hair additionally, normal amounts of heat, such as the heat used in conventional thermal styling, do not break disulfide bonds. The bonds can be broken by extreme heat produced by boiling water and some high-temperature thermal styling tools such as straightening or flat irons. Thio permanent waves break disulfide bonds and reform the bonds with thio neutralizers. Hydroxide chemical hair relaxers break disulfide bonds and then convert them to lanthionine bonds (lan-THY-oh-neen BAHNDZ) when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair. The disulfide bonds that are treated with hydroxide relaxers are broken permanently and can never be reformed

318) These are the strongest bonds in the hair, they can only be broken by chemicals or boiling water:

A) Disulfide BondS

B) Hydrogen Bonds

C) Sulfide Bonds

D) Bearer Bonds

[image]

DISULFIDE BONDS

• A disulfide bond (dy-SUL-fyd BAHND) is a strong, chemical, side bond that is very different from the physical side bond of a hydrogen bond or salt bond. The disulfide bond joins the sulfur atoms of two neighboring cysteine (SIS-ti-een) amino acids to create one cystine (SIS-teen). The cystine joins together two polypeptide strands. Although there are far fewer disulfide bonds than hydrogen or salt bonds, disulfide bonds are so much stronger that they also account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength. Disulfide bonds are not broken by water. They are broken by permanent waves and chemical hair relaxers that alter the shape of hair Additionally, normal amounts of heat, such as the heat used in conventional thermal styling, do not break disulfide bonds. The bonds can be broken by extreme heat produced by boiling water and some high-temperature thermal styling tools such as straightening or flat irons. Thio permanent waves break disulfide bonds and reform the bonds with thio neutralizers. Hydroxide chemical hair relaxers break disulfide bonds and then convert them to lanthionine bonds (lan-THY-oh-neen BAHNDZ) when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair. The disulfide bonds that are treated with hydroxide relaxers are broken permanently and can never be reformed

Side Bonds of the Cortex

The cortex is made up of millions of polypeptide chains. Polypeptide chains are cross-linked like the rungs on a ladder by three different types of side bonds that link the polypeptide chains together and are responsible for the extreme strength and elasticity of human hair. They are essential to services such as wet setting, thermal styling, permanent waving, and chemical hair relaxing (see Chapter 20, Chemical Texture Services). The three types of side bonds are hydrogen, salt, and disulfide bonds 

• A hydrogen bond is a weak, physical, cross-link side bond that is easily broken by water or heat. Although individual hydrogen bonds are very weak, there are so many of them that they account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength. Hydrogen bonds are broken by wetting the hair with water (Figure 11–7). That allows the hair to be stretched and wrapped around rollers. The hydrogen bonds reform when the hair dries.

• A salt bond is also a weak, physical, cross-link side bond between adjacent polypeptide chains. Salt bonds depend on pH, so they are easily broken by strong alkaline or acidic solutions. Even though they are weak bonds, there are so many of them that they account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength. 

•  A disulfide bond (dy-SUL-fyd BAHND) is a strong, chemical, side bond that is very different from the physical side bond of a hydrogen bond or salt bond. The disulfide bond joins the sulfur atoms of two neighboring cysteine (SIS-ti-een) amino acids to create one cystine (SIS-teen). The cystine joins together two polypeptide strands. Although there are far fewer disulfide bonds than hydrogen or salt bonds, disulfide bonds are so much stronger that they also account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength. Disulfide bonds are not broken by water. They are broken by permanent waves and chemical hair relaxers that alter the shape of hair Additionally, normal amounts of heat, such as the heat used in conventional thermal styling, do not break disulfide bonds. The bonds can be broken by extreme heat produced by boiling water and some high-temperature thermal styling tools such as straightening or flat irons. Thio permanent waves break disulfide bonds and reform the bonds with thio neutralizers. Hydroxide chemical hair relaxers break disulfide bonds and then convert them to lanthionine bonds (lan-THY-oh-neen BAHNDZ) when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair. The disulfide bonds that are treated with hydroxide relaxers are broken permanently and can never be reformed

332) Which bonds are broken and reformed into a new shape in the processing action of both permanent waving and chemical relaxer service:

A) Hydrogen Bonds

B) "S" Bonds

C) Disulfide Bonds

D) Salt Bonds

[image]

DISULFIDE BONDS

Side Bonds of the Cortex

The cortex is made up of millions of polypeptide chains. Polypeptide chains are cross-linked like the rungs on a ladder by three different types of side bonds that link the polypeptide chains together and are responsible for the extreme strength and elasticity of human hair. They are essential to services such as wet setting, thermal styling, permanent waving, and chemical hair relaxing. The three types of side bonds are hydrogen, salt, and disulfide bonds  

  A disulfide bond (dy-SUL-fyd BAHND) is a strong, chemical, side bond that is very different from the physical side bond of a hydrogen bond or salt bond. The disulfide bond joins the sulfur atoms of two neighboring cysteine (SIS-ti-een) amino acids to create one cystine (SIS-teen). The cystine joins together two polypeptide strands. Although there are far fewer disulfide bonds than hydrogen or salt bonds, disulfide bonds are so much stronger that they also account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength. Disulfide bonds are not broken by water. They are broken by permanent waves and chemical hair relaxers that alter the shape of hair additionally, normal amounts of heat, such as the heat used in conventional thermal styling, do not break disulfide bonds. The bonds can be broken by extreme heat produced by boiling water and some high-temperature thermal styling tools such as straightening or flat irons. Thio permanent waves break disulfide bonds and reform the bonds with thio neutralizers. Hydroxide chemical hair relaxers break disulfide bonds and then convert them to lanthionine bonds (lan-THY-oh-neen BAHNDZ) when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair. The disulfide bonds that are treated with hydroxide relaxers are broken permanently and can never be reformed

• A hydrogen bond is a weak, physical, cross-link side bond that is easily broken by water or heat. Although individual hydrogen bonds are very weak, there are so many of them that they account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength. Hydrogen bonds are broken by wetting the hair with water. That allows the hair to be stretched and wrapped around rollers. The hydrogen bonds reform when the hair dries.

• A salt bond is also a weak, physical, cross-link side bond between adjacent polypeptide chains. Salt bonds depend on pH, so they are easily broken by strong alkaline or acidic solutions. Even though they are weak bonds, there are so many of them that they account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength. 

337) The most common pH range of an Ammonium Thiogycolate perm is:

A) 4.5 - 5.5

B) 6.5 - 7.5

C) 8.2 - 9.6

D) 9.6 - 10.8

[image]

8.2 - 9.6 ?

Alkaline Waves or Cold Waves Alkaline waves, also known as cold waves, were develoved in 1941, have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature without the addition of heat. All permanent wave solutions contain a reducing agent. The reducing agent commonly referred to as thio is used in permanent waving solutions. It contains a thiol (THy-ohl), which is a particular group of compounds, along with carboxylic acid. Thioglycolic acid (thy-oh-GLy-kuh-lik), a colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odor, is the most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions. The strength of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by the concentration of thio. Stronger perms have a higher concentration of thio, which means  that more disulfide bonds are broken compared to weaker perms. Because acids do not swell the hair nor penetrate into the cortex, it is necessary for manufacturers to add an alkalizing agent. The addition of ammonia to thioglycolic acid produces a new chemical called ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) (uh-MOH-nee-um thy-oh-GLy-kuh-layt), which is alkaline and is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents. The degree of alkalinity (pH) is a second factor in the overall strength of the waving solution. Coarse hair with a strong, resistant cuticle layer needs the additional swelling and penetration that is provided by a more alkaline waving solution.

338) Term for rolling the hair from ends to the scalp (perm, curling iron):

A) Croquingnole

B) Spiral

C) Piggyback

D) Tiered

[image]

CROQUIGNOLE

Wrapping Techniques There are two basic methods of wrapping the hair around the perm rod: croquignole perm wrap and spiral perm wrap.

A croquignole perm wrap (KROH-ken-ohl) is wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers. Because the hair is wrapped perpendicular to the length of the rod, each new layer of hair is wrapped on top of the previous layer, increasing the size (diameter) of the curl with each new overlapping layer, because each layer is rolled on top of the previous ones. This produces a tighter curl at the ends, and a larger curl at the scalp. longer, thicker hair increases this effect. in a spiral perm wrap the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, like the stripes on a candy cane. A spiral perm wrap may partially overlay the preceding layers. As long as the angle remains constant, any overlay will be uniform along the length of the rod and the strand of hair. This wrapping technique causes the size (diameter) of the curl to remain 

339) Term for rolling the hair from scalp to ends (perms, curling irons):

A) Croquignole

B) Spiral

C) Piggyback

D) Tiered

[image]

SPIRAL

Wrapping Techniques There are two basic methods of wrapping the hair around the perm rod: croquignole perm wrap and spiral perm wrap.

A croquignole perm wrap (KROH-ken-ohl) is wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers. Because the hair is wrapped perpendicular to the length of the rod, each new layer of hair is wrapped on top of the previous layer, increasing the size (diameter) of the curl with each new overlapping layer, because each layer is rolled on top of the previous ones. This produces a tighter curl at the ends, and a larger curl at the scalp. longer, thicker hair increases this effect. in a spiral perm wrap the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, like the stripes on a candy cane. A spiral perm wrap may partially overlay the preceding layers. As long as the angle remains constant, any overlay will be uniform along the length of the rod and the strand of hair. This wrapping technique causes the size (diameter) of the curl to remain 

340) Type of perm wrap / curling iron set producing a curl looser at the scalp:

A) Croquignole

B) Spiral

C) Piggyback

D) Tiered

[image]

CROQUIGNOLE

Wrapping Techniques There are two basic methods of wrapping the hair around the perm rod: croquignole perm wrap and spiral perm wrap.

A croquignole perm wrap (KROH-ken-ohl) is wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers. Because the hair is wrapped perpendicular to the length of the rod, each new layer of hair is wrapped on top of the previous layer, increasing the size (diameter) of the curl with each new overlapping layer, because each layer is rolled on top of the previous ones. This produces a tighter curl at the ends, and a larger curl at the scalp. longer, thicker hair increases this effect. in a spiral perm wrap the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, like the stripes on a candy cane. A spiral perm wrap may partially overlay the preceding layers. As long as the angle remains constant, any overlay will be uniform along the length of the rod and the strand of hair. This wrapping technique causes the size (diameter) of the curl to remain 

341) Type of perm wrap / curling iron set producing a uniform curl from scalp to ends:

A) Croquignole

B) Spiral

C) Piggyback

D) Tiered

[image]

SPIRAL

In a spiral perm wrap the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, like the stripes on a candy cane. A spiral perm wrap may partially overlay the preceding layers. As long as the angle remains constant, any overlay will be uniform along the length of the rod and the strand of hair. This wrapping technique causes the size (diameter) of the curl to remain constant along the entire length of the strand and produces a uniform curl from the scalp to the ends. For extra-long hair, you may need to use a double-rod wrap, also known as piggyback wrap, in which the hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway down the hair shaft, and another rod is used to wrap the remaining hair strand in the same direction. This allows for better penetration of the processing solution and for a tighter curl near the scalp than that provided by a conventional croquignole wrap.

342) What is not a type of Side Bond in the hair:

A) Anagen Bonds / A Bonds

B) Hydrogen Bonds / H Bonds

C) Sulfide Bonds / S Bonds

D) Disulfide Bonds / SS Bonds

ANAGEN BONDS / A BONDS

Side Bonds of the Cortex

The cortex is made up of millions of polypeptide chains. Polypeptide chains are cross-linked like the rungs on a ladder by three different types of side 

bonds that link the polypeptide chains together and are responsible for the extreme strength and elasticity of human hair. They are essential to services such as wet setting, thermal styling, permanent waving, and chemical hair relaxing (see Chapter 20, Chemical Texture Services). The three types of side bonds are hydrogen, salt, and disulfide bonds.

•  A hydrogen bond is a weak, physical, cross-link side bond that is easily broken by water or heat. Although individual hydrogen bonds are very weak, there are so many of them that they account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength. Hydrogen bonds are broken by wetting the hair with water. That allows the hair to be stretched and wrapped around rollers. The hydrogen bonds reform when the hair Dries. 

•  A salt bond is also a weak, physical, cross-link side bond between adjacent polypeptide chains. Salt bonds depend on pH, so they are easily broken by strong alkaline or acidic solutions. Even though they are weak bonds, there are so many of them that they account for about one-third of the hair’s overall strength. 

•  A disulfide bond (dy-SUL-fyd BAHND) is a strong, chemical, side bond that is very different from the physical side bond of a hydrogen bond or salt bond. The disulfide bond joins the sulfur atoms of two neighboring cysteine (SIS-ti-een) amino acids to create one 

343) The type of perm rod (tool) producing a uniform curl throughout the hair:

A) Converx

B) Concave

C) Straight

D) Spiral

[image]

STRAIGHT

Straight rods are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area. This produces a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand. Both concave and straight rods come in different lengths to accommodate different sections on the head. Short rods, for instance, can be used for wrapping small and awkward sections where long rods would not fit.

Concave rods are the most common type of perm rod; they have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends. Concave rods produce a tighter curl in the center, and a looser curl on either side of the strand .

Soft bender rods are usually about 12-inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. These soft foam rods have a flexible wire inside that permits them to be bent into almost any shape .

The loop rod, also known as circle rod, is usually about 12-inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. After the hair is wrapped, the rod is secured by fastening the ends together to form a loop. Today, many perms are performed with large rollers, rag rollers or other tools, in order to achieve large, loose curls and waves. Larger tools are also used for root perms, in which only the base of the hair is permed in order to create volume and lift without curl.

344) The type of perm rod (tool) producing a smaller / tighter curl in the center:

A) Converx

B) Concave

C) Straight

D) Spiral

[image]

Concave rods are the most common type of perm rod; they have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends. Concave rods produce a tighter curl in the center, and a looser curl on either side of the strand .

Straight rods are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area. This produces a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand. Both concave and straight rods come in different lengths to accommodate different sections on the head. Short rods, for instance, can be used for wrapping small and awkward sections where long rods would not fit.

Soft bender rods are usually about 12-inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. These soft foam rods have a flexible wire inside that permits them to be bent into almost any shape .

The loop rod, also known as circle rod, is usually about 12-inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. After the hair is wrapped, the rod is secured by fastening the ends together to form a loop. Today, many perms are performed with large rollers, rag rollers or other tools, in order to achieve large, loose curls and waves. Larger tools are also used for root perms, in which only the base of the hair is permed in order to create volume and lift without curl.

345) Most popular / common type of permanent wave tool used:

A) Converx

B) Concave

C) Straight

D) Spiral

[image]

CONCAVE

Concave rods are the most common type of perm rod; they have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends. Concave rods produce a tighter curl in the center, and a looser curl on either side of the strand .

Straight rods are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area. This produces a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand. Both concave and straight rods come in different lengths to accommodate different sections on the head. Short rods, for instance, can be used for wrapping small and awkward sections where long rods would not fit.

Soft bender rods are usually about 12-inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. These soft foam rods have a flexible wire inside that permits them to be bent into almost any shape .

The loop rod, also known as circle rod, is usually about 12-inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. After the hair is wrapped, the rod is secured by fastening the ends together to form a loop. Today, many perms are performed with large rollers, rag rollers or other tools, in order to achieve large, loose curls and waves. Larger tools are also used for root perms, in which only the base of the hair is permed in order to create volume and lift without curl.

348) Type of test to determine hair's suitability to receive a permanent:

A) Strand Test

B) Predisposition Test

C) Porosity Test

D) Elasticity Test

ELASTICITY TEST / PULL TEST

Perform an analysis of the client’s hair and scalp. Test the hair for elasticity and porosity on several areas of the head. If the hair has poor elasticity, do not perform a relaxer service. Hair elasticity is the ability of the hair to stretch and return to its original length without breaking. Hair elasticity is an indication of the strength of the side bonds that hold the hair’s individual fibers in place. Wet hair with normal elasticity will stretch up to 50 percent of its original length and return to that same length without breaking. Dry hair stretches about 20 percent of its length. Hair with low elasticity is brittle and breaks easily. It may not be able to hold the curl from wet setting, thermal styling, or permanent waving. Hair with low elasticity is the result of weak side bonds that usually are a result of overprocessing. Chemical services performed on hair with low elasticity require a milder solution with a lower pH to minimize further damage and prevent additional overprocessing. Check elasticity on wet hair by taking an individual strand from four different areas of the head (front hairline, temple, crown, and nape). Hold a single strand of wet hair securely and try to pull it apart. If the hair stretches and returns to its original length without breaking, it has normal elasticity. If the hair breaks easily or fails to return to its original length, it has low elasticity

354) Because chemical changes occur during the permanent wave process always preform a / an _______  prior to perming the hair:

A) P.D. Test

B) Strand Test

C) Elasticity Test

D) None of the above

ELASTICITY TEST

 Perform an analysis of the client’s hair and scalp. Test the hair for elasticity and porosity on several areas of the head. If the hair has poor elasticity, do not perform a relaxer service.Hair elasticity is the ability of the hair to stretch and return to its original length without breaking. Hair elasticity is an indication of the strength of the side bonds that hold the hair’s individual fibers in place. Wet hair with normal elasticity will stretch up to 50 percent of its original length and return to that same length without breaking. Dry hair stretches about 20 percent of its length. Hair with low elasticity is brittle and breaks easily. It may not be able to hold the curl from wet setting, thermal styling, or permanent waving. Hair with low elasticity is the result of weak side bonds that usually are a result of overprocessing. Chemical services performed on hair with low elasticity require a milder solution with a lower pH to minimize further damage and prevent additional overprocessing. Check elasticity on wet hair by taking an individual strand from four different areas of the head (front hairline, temple, crown, and nape). Hold a single strand of wet hair securely and try to pull it apart. If the hair stretches and returns to its original length without breaking, it has normal elasticity. If the hair breaks easily or fails to return to its original length, it has low elasticity

358) The _________ of the rod determines the size of the curl:

A) Circumference

B) Diameter

C) Shape

D) Angle

[image]

DIAMETER

359) Which perm wrapping placement would create the least volume:

A) No Stem

B) On Base

C) Half off Base

D) Off Base

[image]

OFF BASE

Off-base placement refers to wrapping the hair at 45 degrees below the center of the base section, so that the rod is positioned completely off its base . Off-base placement creates the least amount of volume and results in a curl pattern that begins farthest away from the scalp.In half off-base placement, the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned half off its base section.

Base placement refers to the Position of the rod in relation to its base section; base Placement is determined by the angle at which the hair is wraPPed. Rods can be wrapped on base, half off base, or off base. 

Half off-base placement minimizes stress and tension on the hair. For on-base placement, the hair is Wrapped at a 45-degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base. Although on-base placement may result in greater volume at the scalp area, any increase in volume will be lost as soon as the hair begins to grow out. Caution should be used with on-base placement, because the additional stress and tension can mark or break the hair.

360) Which perm wrapping placement would create the most volume:

A) No Stem

B) On Base

C) Half off Base

D) Off Base

[image]

ON BASE

ON Base placement refers to the Position of the rod in relation to its base section; base Placement is determined by the angle at which the hair is wraPPed. Rods can be wrapped on base, half off base, or off base. Although on-base placement may result in greater volume at the scalp area, any increase in volume will be lost as soon as the hair begins to grow out. Caution should be used with on-base placement, because the additional stress and tension can mark or break the hair. 

Half off-base placement minimizes stress and tension on the hair. For on-base placement, the hair 

is wrapped at a 45-degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base. 

Off-base placement refers to wrapping the hair at 45 degrees below the center of the base section, so that the rod is positioned completely off its base . Off-base placement creates the least amount of volume and results in a curl pattern that begins farthest away from the scalp.In half off-base placement, the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned half off its base section.

361) Which perm wrapping technique creates high tension on the hair and may result in marks on the hair and breakage:

A) No Stem

B) On Base

C) Half off Base

D) Off Base

[image]

ON BASE

ON Base placement refers to the Position of the rod in relation to its base section; base Placement is determined by the angle at which the hair is wraPPed. Rods can be wrapped on base, half off base, or off base. Although on-base placement may result in greater volume at the scalp area, any increase in volume will be lost as soon as the hair begins to grow out. Caution should be used with on-base placement, because the additional stress and tension can mark or break the hair. 

Half off-base placement minimizes stress and tension on the hair. For on-base placement, the hair 

is wrapped at a 45-degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base. 

Off-base placement refers to wrapping the hair at 45 degrees below the center of the base section, so that the rod is positioned completely off its base . Off-base placement creates the least amount of volume and results in a curl pattern that begins farthest away from the scalp.In half off-base placement, the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned half off its base section.

362) The end papers / wraps extend past the ends of hair in a perm wave wrap to assure which of the following:

A) No fishhooks

B) Hair is not over-processed

C) keeps hair smooth & straight

D) all of the above

 No fishhooks

Hair is not over-processed

keeps hair smooth & straight

End papers, also known as end wraps, are absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on the perm rods. End papers should extend beyond the ends of the hair to keep them smooth and straight and prevent fishhooks, or hair that is bent up at the ends. The most common end paper techniques are the double flat wrap, single flat wrap, and bookend single paper wrap

363) Over-processed hair is usually:

A) Curly at the root / staight at the ends

B) Straight at the end, curly at the root

C) Straight at both ends and roots

D) Straight at the roots, curly at the ends

[image]

CURLY AT THE ROOTS STRAIGHT AT THE ENDS

                              Overprocessed Hair                           A thorough saturation with a stronger (more alkaline) solution will break more disulfide bonds and process the hair more, but processing the hair more does not necessarily translate into more curl. A properly processed permanent wave should break and rebuild approximately 50 percent of the hair’s disulfide bonds if too many disulfide bonds are broken, the hair may not have enough strength left to hold the desired curl. Weak hair equals a weak curl. Contrary to what many people believe, overprocessed hair does not necessarily mean hair that is overly curly. If too many disulfide bonds are broken, the hair will be too weak to hold a firm curl. Overprocessed hair usually has a weak curl or may even be completely straight. Since the hair at the scalp is usually stronger than the hair at the ends, overprocessed hair is usually curlier at the scalp and straighter at the ends. If the hair is overprocessed, further processing will make it straighter.

364) Under-processed hair is usually:

A) Curly at the root

B) Straight at the end

C) Straight at both ends and roots

D) Straight at the roots, curly at the ends

[image]

STRAIGHT AT ROOTS, CURLY AT ENDS

Underprocessed Hair

As the title suggests, underprocessed hair is the exact opposite of overprocessed hair. If too few disulfide bonds are broken, the hair will not be sufficiently softened and will not be able to hold the desired curl. underprocessed hair usually has a very weak curl, but it may also be straight. Since the hair at the scalp is usually stronger than the ends, underpocessed hair is usually straighter at the scalp and curlier at the ends. If the hair is underprocessed, processing it more will make it curlier.

365) A mild perm requiring the application of heat from an external source:

A) Ammonium Thioglycolate

B) Guanidine

C) Endothermic

D) Exothermic

ENDOTHERMIC

Endothermic Waves

An endothermic chemical reaction is one that absorbs heat from its surroundings. Endothermic waves (en-duh-THUR-mik) are activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-tpye hair dryer. Endothermic waves will not process properly at room temperature. Most true acid waves are endothermic and require the added heat of a hair dryer.

366) A mild perm requiring the application of heat from an internal souce:

A) Ammonium Thioglycolate

B) Guanidine

C) Endothermic

D) Exothermic

EXOTHERMIC

An exothermic chemical reaction produces heat. Exothermic waves (Eks-oh-THUR-mik) create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up the processing. All exothermic waves have three components:  permanent waving solution, activator, and neutralizer. The permanent waving solution contains thio, just as in a cold wave. The activator contains an oxidizing agent (usually hydrogen peroxide) that must be added to the permanent waving solution immediately before use. Mixing an oxidizer with the permanent waving solution causes a rapid release of heat and an increase in the temperature of the solution. The increased temperature increases the rate of the chemical reaction, which shortens the processing time.

367) What is not a funtion of the neutralization step:

A) Rebuild Hydrogen Bonds

B) Deactivate perm solution remaining on the hair

C) Rebuild SS Bonds

D) Rebuild Desulfide Bonds

[image]

REBUILD HYDROGEN BOND

The first function of permanent waving (thio) neutralization is the deactivation, or neutralization, of any waving lotion that remains in the hair after processing and rinsing. The chemical reaction involved is called oxidation.

Stage Two: permanent waving solution breaks disulfide bonds by adding hydrogen. Thio neutralization rebuilds the disulfide bonds by removing the hydrogen that was added by the permanent waving solution. The hydrogen atoms are strongly attracted to the oxgen in the neutralizer and release their bond with the sulfur atoms and join with the oxygen. Each oxygen atom joins with two hydrogen atoms to rebuild one disulfide bond, forming a water molecule. The water is removed in the final rinse. Side bonds are then re-formed into their new shape as different pairs

384) A very common reducing agent in chemical relaxers:

A) Glycerol Monothioycolate

B) Sodium Hypochlorite

C) Sodium Hydroxide

D) Sodium Bromate / Bromide

SODIUM HYDROXIDE

Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) relaxers are commonly called lye relaxers. Sodium hydroxide is the oldest, and still the most common, type of chemical hair relaxer. Sodium hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. Sodium hydroxide is the same chemical that is used in drain cleaners and chemical hair depilatories

391) ATG is the "Reducing Agent" in an alkaline wave, it is short for:

A) Ammonium Thiolgycolate

B) Acquass Tyrosine Glycerol

C) Ammonia Tetracycline Glutamate

D) Acid Thioglycolate Glycerol

AMMONIUM THIOLGYCOLATE

Alkaline waves, also known as cold waves, were developed in 1941, have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature without the addition of heat.

393) Wrapping the hair from the ends to the scalp, whether in a permanent wave or when using a curling iron is known as:

A) Spiral

B) Croquignole

C) Barrel

D) Pocket

[image]

CROQUIGNOLE

Wrapping Techniques

There are two basic methods of wrapping the hair around the perm rod: 

croquignole perm wrap and spiral perm wrap.

A croquignole perm wrap (KROH-ken-ohl) is wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers. Because the hair is wrapped perpendicular to the length of the rod, each new layer of hair is wrapped on top of the previous layer, increasing the size (diameter) of the curl with each new overlapping layer, because each layer is rolled on top of the previous ones. This produces a tighter curl at the ends, and a larger curl at the scalp. longer, thicker hair increases this effect. In a spiral perm wrap the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, like the stripes on a candy cane. A spiral perm wrap may partially overlay the preceding layers. As long as the angle remains constant, any overlay will be uniform along the length of the rod and the strand of hair. This wrapping technique causes the size (diameter) of the curl to remain 

394) When performing a preliminary test curl procedure, wrap 3 Tools in different areas of the head, including the top, side, and:

A) Nape

B) Occipital

C) Apex

D) Fringe

NAPE

Wrap one rod in each different area of the head (top, side, and nape).

397) The ________ of the Tool determines the size of the curl:

A) Circumference

B) Shape

C) Length

D) Diameter

[image]

DIAMETER

398) Type of perm Tool having equal diameter from end-to-end:

A) Concave

B) Convex

C) Croquignole

D) Straight

[image]

STRAIGHT

Straight rods are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area. This produces a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand. Both concave and straight rods come in different lengths to accommodate different sections on the head. Short rods, for instance, can be used for wrapping small and awkward sections where long rods would not fit.

Concave rods are the most common type of perm rod; they have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends. Concave rods produce a tighter curl in the center, and a looser curl on either side of the strand.

Soft bender rods are usually about 12-inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. These soft foam rods have a flexible wire inside that permits them to be bent into almost any shape.

The loop rod, also known as circle rod, is usually about 12-inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. After the hair is wrapped, the rod is secured by fastening the ends together to form a loop. Today, many perms are performed with large rollers, rag rollers or other tools, in order to achieve large, loose curls and waves. Larger tools are also used for root perms, in which only the base of the hair is permed in order to create volume and lift without curl.

399) Type of perm Tool having a smaller diameter at the center than the end:

A) Concave

B) Convex

C) Croquignole

D) Straight

[image]

CONCAVE

Concave rods are the most common type of perm rod; they Have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends. Concave rods produce a tighter curl in the center, and a looser curl on either side of the strand.

Straight rods are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area. This produces a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand. Both concave and straight rods come in different lengths to accommodate different sections on the head. Short rods, for Instance, can be used for wrapping small and awkward sections where long rods would not fit.

Soft bender rods are usually about 12-inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. These soft foam rods have a flexible wire inside that permits them to be bent into almost any shape.

The loop rod, also known as circle rod, is usually about 12-inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. After the hair is wrapped, the rod is secured by fastening the ends together to form a loop. Today, many perms are performed with large rollers, rag rollers or other tools, in order to achieve large, loose curls and waves. Larger tools are also used for root perms, in which only the base of the hair is permed in order to create volume and lift without curl.

400) Concave perm rod will produce a curl that is:

A) Tighter in the center and ends

B) Looser at the sides and scalp

C) Tighter at the sides and scalp

D) A & B

[image]

TIGHTER IN THE CENTER--LOOSER AT THE SIDES 

Concave rods are the most common type of perm rod; they have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends. Concave rods produce a tighter curl in the center, and a looser curl on either side of the strand.

Straight rods are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area. This produces a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand. Both concave and straight rods come in different lengths to accommodate different sections on the head. Short rods, for Instance, can be used for wrapping small and awkward sections where long rods would not fit.

Soft bender rods are usually about 12-inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. These soft foam rods have a flexible wire inside that permits them to be bent into almost any shape.

The loop rod, also known as circle rod, is usually about 12-inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. After the hair is wrapped, the rod is secured by fastening the ends together to form a loop. Today, many perms are performed with large rollers, rag rollers or other tools, in order to achieve large, loose curls and waves. Larger tools are also used for root perms, in which only the base of the hair is permed in order to create volume and lift without curl.

401) What is the best type of perm Tool placement to use when perming fine /thin hair to make it appear thicker:

A) On Base

B) No Stem

C) Half on base

D) Off Base

[image]

ON BASE

ON Base placement refers to the Position of the rod in relation to its base section; base Placement is determined by the angle at which the hair is wraPPed. Rods can be wrapped on base, half off base, or off base. Although on-base placement may result in greater volume at the scalp area, any increase in volume will be lost as soon as the hair begins to grow out. Caution should be used with on-base placement, because the additional stress and tension can mark or break the hair. 

Half off-base placement minimizes stress and tension on the hair. For on-base placement, the hair is wrapped at a 45-degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base. 

Off-base placement refers to wrapping the hair at 45 degrees below the center of the base section, so that the rod is positioned completely off its base. Off-base placement creates the least amount of volume and results in a curl pattern that begins farthest away from the scalp. In half off-base placement, the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section and the rod is positioned half off its base section.