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Chapter 18
Chemical Texture Services (Milady)
54
Cosmetology
11th Grade
04/12/2010

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Term
Acid-balanced Waves
Definition
Not true acid waves, as they have a pH between 7.8 and 8.2 and use glycerl monthioglycolate (GMTG) as the primary reducing agent; process at room temperature
Term
Alkaline Waves/Cold Waves
Definition
Have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent and process at room temp.
Term
Amino Acids
Definition
Compound made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen and nitrogen
Term
Ammonia-free Waves
Definition
Perms use alkanolamines instead of ammonia
Term
Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG)
Definition
Active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents
Term
Base Control
Definition
Position of the rod in relation to its base section; determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped
Term
Base Cream/Protective Base Cream
Definition
Oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during relaxing
Term
Base Direction
Definition
Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally)
Term
Base Perm Wrap
Definition
Perm wrap in which all the rods within the panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-size bases.
Term
Base Placement
Definition
The position of the rod in relation to its base section; determined by which the angle that the hair is wrapped
Term
Base Relaxers
Definition
Relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer
Term
Base Sections
Definition
Subsections of panels in which hair is divided for perm wrapping
Term
Bookend Wrap
Definition
Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope.
Term
Bricklay Perm Wrap
Definition
Perm wrap similar to actual technique of bricklaying
Term
Chemical Hair Relaxing
Definition
Rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form.
Term
Chemical Texture Services
Definition
Hair services that cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of the hair.
Term
Concave Rods
Definition
Perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a longer diameter on the rods
Term
Cortex
Definition
Middle layer of the hair, located directly beneath the cuticle layer.
Term
Croquignole Perms
Definition
Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped at an angle perpendicular to the perm rod, in overlapping concentric layers
Term
Curvature Perm Wrap
Definition
Perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head
Term
Disulfide Bonds
Definition
Chemical side bonds that are formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together.
Term
Double Flat Wrap
Definition
Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under, and one is placed over, the strand of hair being wrapped
Term
Double-Rod (Piggy-Back) Technique
Definition
Perm wrap in which two rods are used for one strand of hair, one on top of the other
Term
End Papers/Wraps
Definition
Absorbent papers used to control ends of hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods.
Term
Endothermic Waves
Definition
Perm activated by an outside heat source, usually hooded dryer.
Term
Exothermic Waves
Definition
Creates an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing
Term
Glyceryl Monothioglycolate (GMTG)
Definition
Main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions
Term
Half-off Base Placements
Definition
Base control in which the hair is wrapped at the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees to its base section and the rod is positioned half off on its base section
Term
Hydrogen Bonds
Definition
Weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges
Term
Hydroxide Neutralizations
Definition
The neutralization of hydroxide relaxers is an acid-alkali neutralization reactions that neutralizes (deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by the hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp.
Term
Hydroxide Relaxers
Definition
Very strong alkalis with a pH over 13
Term
Lanthionizations
Definition
Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair
Term
Loop/Circle Rods
Definition
Tool that is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod
Term
Low-pH Waves
Definition
Perms that work at a low pH, and use sulfates, sulfites and disulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate
Term
Medulla
Definition
Innermost layer of the hair and is often called the pith or core of the hair
Term
Metal Hydroxide Relaxers
Definition
Ionic compounds formed by a metal (sodium, potassium, or lithium) combined with oxygen and hydrogen
Term
No-Base Relaxers
Definition
Relaxers that do not require application of a protective base cream
Term
Normalizing Lotions
Definition
Conditioners that restore the hair's natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer and prior to shampooing
Term
Off-Base Placement
Definition
Base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45 degree angle below perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned completely its base section
Term
On-Base Placement
Definition
Base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45 degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned completely its base section
Term
Peptide/End Bonds
Definition
Chemical bonds that join amino acids together to form polypeptide chains
Term
Salt Bonds
Definition
Relatively weak physical that are a result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges
Term
Side Bonds
Definition
Disulfide, salt and hydrogen that cross-link polypeptide chains together
Term
Single Flat Wrap
Definition
Perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but only uses one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of the hair being wrapped
Term
Soft Bender Rods
Definition
Tool about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length
Term
Soft Curl Permanent
Definition
Combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on large rods to make existing curl larger and looser
Term
Spiral Perm Wrap
Definition
Hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod.
Term
Straight Rods
Definition
Perm rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area
Term
Thio Neutralization
Definition
Stops the action of a permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair in its new curly form
Term
Thio Relaxers
Definition
Use the same ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) that is used in permanent waving, but at a higher concentration and a higher pH (above 10)
Term
Thio-free Waves
Definition
Perm that uses cysteamine or mercapyamine instead of ammonium thioglycolate as the primary reducing agent
Term
Thioglycolic Acid
Definition
Colorless liquid with a strong unpleasant odor; provides the hydrogen that causes the reduction reaction in permanent waving solutions
Term
True Acid Waves
Definition
Have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0, require heat to process(endothermic), process more slowly than alkaline waves, and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves
Term
Wave Technique
Definition
Wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas
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