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vertical distance between the crest and the trough |
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the horizontal distance between two wave crests |
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a wave that has become so steep that the crest of the wave topples forward |
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bending of waves
as wave slows progressively along its lenth, the wave crest changes direction and becomes more nearly parallel to the shoreline |
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a moving mass of water, develops parallel to the shoreline. |
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narrow currents that flow straight out to sea in the surf zone, returning water seaward that breaking waves have pushed ashore. |
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a strip of sediment that extends fromt he low water line inland to a cliff or a zone of permanent vegetation |
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the steepest part of a beach, section exposed to wave action |
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a broad, gently sloping platform that may be exposed at low tide if the shore has significant tidal action |
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the upper part of the beach, landward of the usual high water line
a wave deposited sediment platform that is flat or slopes slightly landward.
usually dry being covered by waves only during severe storms |
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the movement of sediment parallel to shore when waves strike the shoreline at an angle |
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a fingerlike ridge of sediment that extends out into open water |
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a ridge of sediment that cuts a bay off from the ocean |
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a bar of sediment connecting a former island to the mainland |
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all the land near the sea, including the beach and a strip of land inland from it |
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gradually takes place through wave erosion of headlands and wave deposition in bays |
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steep slops that retreat inland b mass wasting as wave erosion undercuts them |
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a horizontal bench of rock formed beneath the surf zone as a coast retreats by wave erosion |
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erosional remnants of headlands left behind as the coast retreats inland |
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bridges of rock left above openings eroded in headlands or stacks by waves |
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ridges of sand that parallel the shoreline and extend above sea level |
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glacially cut valleys flooded by rising sea level |
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