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Chapter 14 - Waves, Beaches, and Coasts
Midterm Number III
26
Geology
Undergraduate 1
11/10/2009

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Term
wave height
Definition
vertical distance between the crest and the trough
Term
crest
Definition
high point of a wave
Term
trough
Definition
low point of a wave
Term
wave length
Definition
the horizontal distance between two wave crests
Term
breaker
Definition
a wave that has become so steep that the crest of the wave topples forward
Term
surf
Definition
breakers collectively
Term
wave refraction
Definition

bending of waves

as wave slows progressively along its lenth, the wave crest changes direction and becomes more nearly parallel to the shoreline

Term
longshore current
Definition
a moving mass of water, develops parallel to the shoreline.
Term
rip currents
Definition
narrow currents that flow straight out to sea in the surf zone, returning water seaward that breaking waves have pushed ashore.
Term
beach
Definition
a strip of sediment that extends fromt he low water line inland to a cliff or a zone of permanent vegetation
Term
beach face
Definition
the steepest part of a beach, section exposed to wave action
Term
marine terrace
Definition
a broad, gently sloping platform that may be exposed at low tide if the shore has significant tidal action
Term
berm
Definition

the upper part of the beach, landward of the usual high water line

a wave deposited sediment platform that is flat or slopes slightly landward.

usually dry being covered by waves only during severe storms

Term
longshore drift
Definition
the movement of sediment parallel to shore when waves strike the shoreline at an angle
Term
spit
Definition
a fingerlike ridge of sediment that extends out into open water
Term
baymouth bar
Definition
a ridge of sediment that cuts a bay off from the ocean
Term
tombolo
Definition
a bar of sediment connecting a former island to the mainland
Term
coast
Definition
all the land near the sea, including the beach and a strip of land inland from it
Term
coastal straightening
Definition
gradually takes place through wave erosion of headlands and wave deposition in bays
Term
sea cliffs
Definition
steep slops that retreat inland b mass wasting as wave erosion undercuts them
Term
wave cut platform
Definition
a horizontal bench of rock formed beneath the surf zone as a coast retreats by wave erosion
Term
stacks
Definition
erosional remnants of headlands left behind as the coast retreats inland
Term
arches
Definition
bridges of rock left above openings eroded in headlands or stacks by waves
Term
barrier islands
Definition
ridges of sand that parallel the shoreline and extend above sea level
Term
estuaries
Definition
drowned river mouths
Term
fiords
Definition
glacially cut valleys flooded by rising sea level
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