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Chapter 11
Chapter 11: The Dynamic Shoreline
39
Science
12th Grade
12/20/2011

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Term
Backshore Zone
Definition
The land that adjoins the nearshore zone
Term
Backwash
Definition
The returning water onto a beach
Term
Barrier Island
Definition
A long narrow narrow accumulation of sand creating an island like mass
Term
Beach Face
Definition
The section of the beach subjected to wave uprush
Term
Beach Nourishment
Definition
Aritificial replenishment of sand to a beach.
Term
Beach Profile
Definition
The beach surface along a set line
Term
Berm
Definition
The flat accumulation of sand on a beach above high tidal lines
Term
Breaker Zone
Definition
The region of surf zone where shallow-water waves break
Term
Breakwater
Definition
A massive structure erected offshore to protect a shoreline from direct impact of storm winds and waves
Term
Coastal Cell
Definition
sections of a beach coast
Term
Delta
Definition
A sediment deposit, typicaly triangular in shape, formed at the mouth of a river
Term
Delta Front
Definition
Consists of the shoreline and the submerged "front" of the delta
Term
Delta Plain
Definition
The part of the delta that goes from the shoreline to the submerged
Term
Dune
Definition
The sand that has been created into a hill on a beach where high-winds have blown the sand up the beach.
Term
Groin
Definition
A small structure erected perpendicular to a beach and designed to catch the longshore drift
Term
Jetty
Definition
A long structure extending seaward to protect a harbor from shoaling by the longshore drift of sediment
Term
Longshore Bar
Definition
A submarine sand ridge nearshore zone that is parallel or subparallel to the shoreline
Term
Longshore Current
Definition
A shore parallel current in the surf zone that is powered by breaking waves
Term
Longshore Drift
Definition
The transport of sand in the surf zone parallel to the shoreline by longshore currents
Term
Nearshore Zone
Definition
The inshore region of the coast between mean high tide and the breaker zone
Term
Offshore Zone
Definition
The open water that lies seaward of the breaker zone
Term
Overwash(Washover fans)
Definition
(Same as washover fans)
Term
Prodelta
Definition
deposits of the inner-continental shelf
Term
Refraction
Definition
The process by which waves are bent and redirected as a consequence of wave interraction with bottom irregularities
Term
Rip Current
Definition
A narrow, swift seaward flowing current along the shore that drains water from the surf zone.
Term
Saltation
Definition
The process by which wind causes sand grains to bounce and jump along the ground
Term
Sand Budget
Definition
A technique used for documenting changes in the quantity of sand in a beach or nearshore system by comparing inputs and outputs of sand.
Term
Sand Spit
Definition
A narrow tongue of sand that extends from the shoreline
Term
Seawall
Definition
A revetment or wall erected to prevent wave erosion and the encroachment of the seas
Term
Steady-state Condition
Definition
The time when the beach is balanced and stable
Term
Storm profile
Definition
A beach profile characterized by a narrow berm, a gently sloping beach face, and submarine bars that is produced by storm erosion
Term
Storm Surge
Definition
An unusually high stand of sea level produced by strong storm winds blowing water shoreward
Term
Surf Zone
Definition
The section of the coastal zone between the shoreline and the breaker zone
Term
Swash
Definition
The rush of water up the beach face after a wave has broken
Term
Swell profile
Definition
A beach profile characterized by a broad berm and steep beach face that evolves during a stretch of fair weather when incoming waves move sand onto the beach
Term
Tidal Inlet
Definition
A channel or openning through a barrier island that admits the tidal flow of water
Term
Washover fan
Definition
The fan=shaped accumulation of sand on the landward side of a barrier island that is deposited by storm waves which overtop the island
Term
Wave-cut Platform
Definition
As a sea cliff is eroded back by the waves, a platform is created that slopes gently seaward
Term
Wave Set-up
Definition
The mass transport of water into tge syrf zone by breaking waves.
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