Term
| what are dressmaker shears? |
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Definition
| the best tool for cutting patterns since the lower blade lies flat on the fabric. |
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Term
| what is a tracing wheel used for? |
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Definition
| used with dressmakers tracing paper; it transfers pattern markings to wrong side of fabric. |
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Term
| what kind of thread is considered all-purpose and what are two qualities of that thread? |
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Definition
| polyester; it is elastic and keeps its color. |
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Term
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Definition
| a cushion used for pressing shaped areas such as bust darts and curved seams. |
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Term
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Definition
| a board used for ironing seams and narrow garment sections such as sleeves and pant legs |
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Term
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Definition
| interfacing is used to support, shape, and stabilize areas, edges, and details of a garment. it is also for reinforcement, preventing stretching, and increasing the life of a garment. |
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Term
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
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Term
| what are some of the important pieces of info that can be garnered from a pattern catalog? |
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Definition
a. back views
b. fabric quantity requirements
c. notions needed
d. fabric recommendations |
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Term
| what important info can be gleaned from the style illustration? |
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Definition
| shape of garment, tight or loose fitting, overall drape and hand of fabric for execution of intended style. |
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Term
| what info will you find on the back of the pattern envelope? |
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Definition
a. suggested fabrics
b. cautions or restrictions
c. size
d. amount of fabric
e. notions and trimmings |
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Term
| what distinguishes the cutting line on the pattern vs. the stitching line? |
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Definition
| cutting lines are solid and stitching lines are dashed |
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Term
| what are the small arrows on the pattern? |
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Definition
| indicate direction of stitching. |
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Term
| what are the horizontal double lines on the pattern used for? |
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Definition
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Term
| what are notches used for? |
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Definition
| accurate joining of pieces. |
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Term
| what symbol is used to indicate that a pattern piece needs to be placed on the fold? |
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Definition
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Term
| how is center front and center back indicated on a pattern piece? |
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Definition
| a seam line, fold line or solid line. |
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Term
| why is grainline of a pattern important? |
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Definition
| if it is not on the straight of grain of the fabric, the garment will not hang properly. |
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Term
| describe the steps that need to occur to the fabric prior to cutting (woven fabric) |
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Definition
a. straighten fabric ends by tearing.
b. check fabric alignment.
c. preshrink if two or more fabrics are being used.
d. press if fabric is wrinkled or creased. |
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Term
| what is a cutting layout? |
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Definition
| the proper manner of laying pattern pieces onto fabric to prepare for cutting. |
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Term
| what are fold choices for the fabric prior to laying out your pattern? |
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Definition
| standard lengthwise fold, partial lengthwise fold, double lengthwise fold, crosswise fold, combined folds, folding lengthwise, and folding crosswise. |
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Term
| what is grainline and what consideration is given to grainline as you place your pattern pieces? |
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Definition
| direction yarns run in fabric: lengthwise=warp, crosswise=weft, bias=45 degrees; grainline of pattern is placed to match grainline of fabric. |
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Term
| what are three ways a pattern can be "marked" after it is cut out? |
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Definition
| dressmaker's tracing paper, chalk, or tailor's tacks. |
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Term
| what is a dart and what is it used for? |
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Definition
| a triangular shape marked on the pattern that is stitched on each side of a center line used to build definite shape into a flat piece of fabric. |
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Term
| where do darts most often occur? |
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Definition
| the bust, waist, and hips. |
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Term
| accuracy is important in what? |
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Definition
| position is important in fit and to emphasize lines in bust, waist, and hips. |
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Term
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Definition
| shapes that conform to particular body contour or curve. |
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Term
| what shape do darts form? |
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Definition
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Term
| after stitching a dart, what is important to do next? |
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Definition
|
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Term
| what direction do you press vertical darts? |
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Definition
| toward center front or center back. |
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Term
| what direction do you press horizontal darts? |
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Definition
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Term
| before removing the pattern that has darts present-what is it important to do? |
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Definition
| transfer markings to wrong side of fabric. |
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Term
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Definition
| a long, single dart that fits at the waistline and then tapers off in two opposite directions to fit either both the bust and hip or the fullest part of both the back and the hip. |
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Term
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Definition
| extends diagonally from side seam in the hip area to the bust. used on the front--never back. |
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Term
| when darts are not used in a garment, they can be converted into a princess seam. what are princess seams designed to do? |
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Definition
| fit the body's contours by curving outward to accommodate the fullest part of the bust or back, then inward to conform to the waist and outward again to fit over the hips. |
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Term
| what piece of pressing equipment will help you press darts? |
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Definition
|
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Term
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Definition
| tacks used to transfer construction details and matching points from the pattern to cut fabric sections. |
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Term
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Definition
| a tack used to temporarily hold together two or more fabric layers during fitting and construction. |
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Term
| what is a running stitch? |
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Definition
| a very short, even stitch used for fine seaming, tucking, mending, gathering, and other delicate sewing. |
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Term
| what is back stitching? describe two scenarios in which this method would be selected. |
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Definition
| one of the strongest ways of stitching; it is used for topstitching and hand-picking zippers. |
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Term
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Definition
| more decorative; ideal for topstitching and hand understitching; only top part of stitch should be seen. |
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Term
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Definition
| like the overhand stitch with the needle held straight; used to join two finished edges or attach unfinished edges. |
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Term
| what is an overcast stitch? |
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Definition
| a hand stich used for finishing raw edges to prevent fraying. |
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Term
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Definition
| the basic structural element of any garment. |
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Term
| what does it mean to trim and grade a seam? |
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Definition
trim: cutting away some of the seam allowance.
grade: cutting seam allowances to different widths (larger seam allowance facing outside of garment) so the seam lies flat without a bulky ridge. |
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Term
| why would you trim a corner? |
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Definition
| so that the seam allowances don't overlap and cause bulk. |
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Term
| why do you clip and notch a seam? |
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Definition
| so curved seams can lie smooth. |
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Term
| what is a seam finish and why would you use one? |
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Definition
| any technique used to make a seam edge look neater and to keep it from fraying. three considerations for seam finish decision are type and weight of fabric; amount and kind of wear and care; and whether or not seams will be seen. |
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Term
| where do patch pockets appear on a garment? |
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Definition
| on the outside of the garment. |
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Term
| do patch pockets have a lining? |
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Definition
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Term
| what shapes are typically seen in a patch pocket? |
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Definition
| square, curved, rectangular or pointed. |
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Term
| what considerations are given to the placement of patch pockets? |
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Definition
| comfortable for the hand to reach and where it will be most flattering. |
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Term
| what would be the concern if you have a pair of patch pockets? |
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Definition
| must be same size and shape. |
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Term
| what are the choices for the appearance of a plaid pocket? (what ways can you address the positioning of the plaid?) |
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Definition
| opposing the grain or on the bias for contrast. |
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Term
| what are the differences in preparation of a square corner pocket versus one with rounded edges? |
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Definition
| rounded edges must be notched because seam allowance causes bulk; square corners must be miltered. |
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Term
| what choices are given for reinforcement of corners for the pocket? |
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Definition
a. small triangles stitched at each top corner.
b. zigzag stitch a half inch of the top of each corner.
c. backstitch on each side of the pocket's opening.
d. patch of fabric or iron-on interfacing on wrong side.
e. hand reinforcement/slipstitch.
f. bar tacks diagonal on top opening. |
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Term
| what makes an invisible zipper unique? |
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Definition
| it is constructed so that it disappears into a seam. |
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Term
| what makes an invisible zipper unique? |
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Definition
| it is constructed so that it disappears into a seam. |
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Term
| what are the general differences between metal and nylon zippers? |
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Definition
| nylon zippers are lighter and more flexible. |
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Term
| how is a centered zipper used? |
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Definition
| center front/back of a garment, at edges of sleeves, and in home decorating. |
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Term
| how is a lapped zipper used? |
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Definition
| left side seam of pants, skirts, and dresses. |
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Term
| how is a fly-front zipper used? |
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Definition
| men's pants, women's skirts & pants. |
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Term
| how is a hand-sewn zipper used? |
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Definition
| hand-tailored dresses and skirts. |
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Term
| how is a separating zipper used? |
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Definition
| jackets, track suit tops, vests, and skirts. |
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Term
| how is an exposed zipper used? |
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Definition
| where there are no seams like in knitted sweaters. |
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Term
| which pocket is considered an all-in-one in-seam pocket? |
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Definition
|
|
Term
| what kind of pocket must be included in waist or hip alterations? |
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Definition
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Term
| why would a front hip pocket need to be included in alterations? |
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Definition
| because taking the garment in makes the pocket smaller as well and therefore closes the pocket opening. |
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Term
| what are the two pattern pieces called for a front-hip pocket? |
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Definition
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Term
| which pocket pattern piece must be cut from the fashion fabric and which one would be cut from lining fabric? |
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Definition
| pocket piece from fashion fabric and facing from lining fabric. |
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Term
| why do you need to cut the pocket pattern piece from fashion fabric? |
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Definition
| because a part of the pocket piece shows through to the visible side of the garment. |
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Term
| in step two of sewing the front hip pocket, why are they showing trimming and clipping? |
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Definition
| because the fabric curves and trimming and clipping allows the seam to lie flat. |
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Term
| after trimming and clipping, what are the next two steps covered in step three? |
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Definition
| press seams and understitch seamline to prevent rolling. |
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|
Term
| what is the variable with a lapped zipper? |
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Definition
| the placement of the zipper in relation to the garment edge. |
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Term
| after reading the two pages on lapped zippers, what is the difference in placement about an enclosed lapped zipper? |
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Definition
| seam is closed above and below the zipper teeth. |
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Term
| besides using topstitching on a garment to finish the application, what two other choices does the book present? |
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Definition
| hand finishing and machine blindstitching. |
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Term
| what is a separating zipper? |
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Definition
| a zipper that separates an entire seam of a garment. |
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Term
| do you sew a separating zipper in before or after the facing and hems are completed? |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| what do waistline seams join? |
|
Definition
| the top and bottom of a garment. |
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|
Term
| where can waistline seams be located? |
|
Definition
| natural waistline, underneath the bust, and on the hips. |
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Term
| waistline seams are not always straight horizontal-what shape can they take? |
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Definition
| curved or angled sharply toward the bust or hips. |
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Term
| what is the most basic and traditional of all the waistband techniques? |
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Definition
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|
Term
| the length of the waistband should be placed on what grainline? |
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Definition
| lengthwise grain of fabric. |
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Term
| why place the waistband on the lengthwise grainline? |
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Definition
| to reduce stretch in the waistband. |
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Term
| what is a turned and stitched edge for a hem and when would you use it? |
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Definition
| suitable for all lightweight fabrics, especially crisp sheers, and excellent, durable finish for washable garments. |
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Term
| why would you zigzag the edge of a hem? |
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Definition
| in order to prevent fraying of the edges. |
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Term
| what do seam binding, bias tape and Hong Kong finish all do for the edge of a hem? |
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Definition
| provide a clean finish free of fraying. |
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Term
| what is fusing a hem and why would you want to carefully consider doing this? |
|
Definition
| applying a sheer material that melts with heat and moisture. removal is messy and pressing times vary. |
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Term
| why use interfacing for a hem? |
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Definition
| because it adds body and support to the hem; can also serve as a cushion to keep the edge from being pressed sharply against the garment. |
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Term
| why would you double stitch a hem? |
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Definition
| to give more support to heavy fabrics. |
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|
Term
| why would you use facing on a hem? |
|
Definition
| not enough fabric for a hem, unusual shape such as scallops, skirt is circular in style, or fabric is exceptionally bulky. |
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Term
|
Definition
| Firm round for pressing and shaping curved seams, darts, collars, and lapels |
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Term
|
Definition
| Long narrow roll for pressing seams |
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|
Term
| Clapper or pounding block |
|
Definition
| Wooden board to pound edges and seams flat on woolens and heavy fabrics and leather |
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Term
| Clapper or pounding block |
|
Definition
| Wooden board to pound edges and seams flat on woolens and heavy fabrics and leather |
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