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AMD 140
Apparel Structuring Study Guides 11-13
68
Fine Art
Undergraduate 1
04/17/2011

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Term
Flat Collar
Definition
Emerges from the neck seam line to lie flat against the garment, rising only slightly above the neck edge. Examples are peter pan and sailor collars. Flat collars occur most often in untailored garments, such as blouses and in children's wear.
Term
Rolled Collar
Definition
First stands up from the neck edge, then falls down to rest on the garment. The line at which the collar begins to fall is called the roll line. The positioning of this line determines the extent of the stand, and thus the fall of the collar.
Term
Standing Collar
Definition
Extends above the neck seam line of the garment either as a narrow, single-width band or as a wider, double width band that will fold back down onto itself.
Term
What part does interfacing play in the construction of collars?
Definition
It helps to define and support the collar shape.
Term
What issue does interfacing take care of if you are using a lightweight fabric?
Definition
It helps to define and support the collar shape.
Term
What is the most familiar form of the flat collar?
Definition
The peter pan collar
Term
How are rolled collars differentiated from flat collars?
Definition
By a roll line that breaks the collar into stand and fall areas.
Term
What is the key difference in kimono sleeves versus the sleeves listed above?
Definition
It is cut as an extension of the main bodice piece.
Term
What is a French cuff?
Definition
A cuff cut double the width of a standard cuff so it can fold back onto itself.
Term
What is a lapped cuff?
Definition
One end projects from the placket edge
Term
What is a shirt cuff?
Definition
Sewn with its ends aligned to the overlap and overlap edges of the shirt placket
Term
What is an upper collar piece?
Definition
The piece that is visible as you wear it
Term
What is an under collar piece?
Definition
The piece that is trimmed so that the upper collar rolls to the back on the edge
Term
Bound buttonholes
Definition
Made by stitching strips or patches of fabric to the buttonhole location in any of several ways
Term
Machine-worked buttonholes
Definition
Consist of the two parallel rows of zigzag stitches, and two ends finished with a bar tack
Term
Hand-worked buttonholes
Definition
Made by edging a cut in the fabric with hand buttonhole stitches
Term
Describe the placement of horizontal buttonholes
Definition
They are placed to extend 1/8" in beyond the button placement line which is the center fold line
Term
Describe the placement of vertical buttonholes
Definition
Placed directly on the button placement line and the top of the buttonhole 1/8" above the mark for a center button
Term
How is a horizontal buttonhole placement established?
Definition
Place pin at end nearest the finished garment edge
Term
How is a vertical buttonhole placement established?
Definition
Place below the top of the buttonhole opening. Carefully life buttonhole over pin and re-fasten the pin securely at proper location
Term
What is a button shank?
Definition
A button that has a little "neck" or shank with a hole in it
Term
How do you make a button shank with thread?
Definition
Take a few stitches where the button is placed, place button, and bring thread through hole and fabric.
Term
If you sew on buttons by machine, how do you establish a button shank?
Definition
Sew over the top of the "spacer" when button is sewn on, remove spacer, and wrap the threads under the button around the threads used to sew on the button
Term
What are the three parts of a rolled collar?
Definition
The stand, roll line, and fall
Term
What is a collar stand?
Definition
The part that holds the collar up
Term
What is the roll line of a collar?
Definition
The part where the collar folds
Term
What is the fall of a collar?
Definition
The upper part of the collar that shows.
Term
Warp
Definition
Lengthwise grain & strongest grain; arrows on pattern should be placed on this grain unless otherwise instructed; selvage runs parallel to lengthwise grain
Term
Weft
Definition
Crosswise grain, perpendicular to selvage, has slight stretch, and good to go around body
Term
Bias
Definition
Angle across warp and weft; true bias is 45 degrees (most stretch)
Term
Grainline
Definition
Direction of yarns in fabric; what direction the arrows are on pattern indicates placing along this
Term
Fabric selection
Definition
Look at suggested fabrics and look at picture- is it hanging softly or stiffly away from the body?
Term
To prepare fabric:
Definition
Pre-shrink by washing if garment is to be washed and fold fabric with selvages on top of each other
Term
Characteristics of the right side of the fabric
Definition
Greater softness, deeper color, smoother, and selvage is smoother
Term
When laying out a pattern...
Definition
cut paper patter, locate and pin grainline markings, and pin around pieces; pieces must go in same direction if using napped fabric
Term
What are the small arrows on patterns?
Definition
Indicate direction of stitching
Term
What are the horizontal double lines on a pattern?
Definition
Adjusting length
Term
What symbol indicates the pattern piece needs to be placed on the fold?
Definition
Place on fold bracket
Term
How are center front and center back indicated on a pattern?
Definition
A seam line, solid line, or fold line
Term
What do triangles/diamonds indicate on a pattern?
Definition
Notches
Term
Tailor's ham
Definition
Firm round for pressing and shaping curved seams, darts, collars, and lapels
Term
Seam roll
Definition
Long narrow roll for pressing seams
Term
Clapper or pounding block
Definition
Wooden board to pound edges and seams flat on woolens and heavy fabrics and leather
Term
Pressing tips:
Definition
set stitches, press seams before intersecting, use plenty of pressure and steam, and interfacing is pressed not ironed
Term
Pressing tips:
Definition
set stitches, press seams before intersecting, use plenty of pressure and steam, and interfacing is pressed not ironed
Term
Seam roll
Definition
Long narrow roll for pressing seams
Term
Clapper or pounding block
Definition
Wooden board to pound edges and seams flat on woolens and heavy fabrics and leather
Term
Where is staystitching done?
Definition
on off-grain edges to prevent stretching like in shoulder seams, body curves, necklines, and armholes; sewn 1/8" from seam line
Term
What is grading?
Definition
eliminates bulk; longest cut side is worn on outside of garment
Term
Interfacing requirements (4)
Definition
time, temperature, moisture and pressure
Term
Purpose of interfacing (3)
Definition
to add stiffness, body, and firmness to garment edges and pieces
Term
Types of interfacing and interfacing insertion
Definition
woven, nonwoven, knit, and weft knit; sew-in and fusible
Term
What to look for in thread
Definition
slightly darker than main background of fabric, polyester, and Gutermann brand
Term
Sewing machine needle sizes
Definition
9 & 10 for finer fabrics, 12 & 14 for cotton and medium fabrics, and 16 & 18 for denim
Term
Seam allowance
Definition
5/8" on patterns and raw edges match up except when unlike curves come together
Term
Seam finishes (4)
Definition
serger, zig zag, turn and stitched, and stitch and pink
Term
Specialty seams and descriptions
Definition
French: self-enclosed, good for sheer fabrics & unlined jackets
Flat felled: self enclosed, good for sports clothing and children's wear
Fla
Term
Order of skirt:
Definition
cutout, mark, staystitch, darts, center back seam, zipper, side seams, waistband, h em, and hook and eye
Term
Order of blouse:
Definition
cutout, mark, interfacing, staystitch, darts, shoulder seams, collar, ease stitching on sleeves, continuos lap, attach sleeves, side seams, cuffs, hem, and buttons
Term
Oval body shape
Definition
torso and upper body wider than hips; weight around waist
Term
Oval body shape
Definition
torso and upper body wider than hips; weight around waist
Term
Triangle body shape
Definition
Torso and upper body smaller than hips, waist definition
Term
Inverted triangle body type
Definition
Torso and upper body wider than hips; little waist definition
Term
Rectangle body shape
Definition
Torso and upper body are the same width as hips; little waist definition
Term
Hourglass body shape
Definition
Torso and hips are same width; waist definition
Term
Example of functional design
Definition
Side hip pockets to store items
Term
Examples of structural design
Definition
Construction lines, garment edges, creases, folds, pleats, darts, etc.
Term
Examples of decorative design
Definition
Construction details, fabric patterns and colors, trims, non-functional details
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