Term
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Definition
Emerges from the neck seam line to lie flat against the garment, rising only slightly above the neck edge. Examples are peter pan and sailor collars. Flat collars occur most often in untailored garments, such as blouses and in children's wear. |
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Term
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Definition
First stands up from the neck edge, then falls down to rest on the garment. The line at which the collar begins to fall is called the roll line. The positioning of this line determines the extent of the stand, and thus the fall of the collar. |
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Term
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Definition
Extends above the neck seam line of the garment either as a narrow, single-width band or as a wider, double width band that will fold back down onto itself. |
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Term
What part does interfacing play in the construction of collars? |
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Definition
It helps to define and support the collar shape. |
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Term
What issue does interfacing take care of if you are using a lightweight fabric? |
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Definition
It helps to define and support the collar shape. |
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Term
What is the most familiar form of the flat collar? |
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Definition
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Term
How are rolled collars differentiated from flat collars? |
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Definition
By a roll line that breaks the collar into stand and fall areas. |
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Term
What is the key difference in kimono sleeves versus the sleeves listed above? |
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Definition
It is cut as an extension of the main bodice piece. |
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Term
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Definition
A cuff cut double the width of a standard cuff so it can fold back onto itself. |
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Term
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Definition
One end projects from the placket edge |
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Term
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Definition
Sewn with its ends aligned to the overlap and overlap edges of the shirt placket |
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Term
What is an upper collar piece? |
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Definition
The piece that is visible as you wear it |
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Term
What is an under collar piece? |
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Definition
The piece that is trimmed so that the upper collar rolls to the back on the edge |
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Term
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Definition
Made by stitching strips or patches of fabric to the buttonhole location in any of several ways |
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Term
Machine-worked buttonholes |
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Definition
Consist of the two parallel rows of zigzag stitches, and two ends finished with a bar tack |
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Term
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Definition
Made by edging a cut in the fabric with hand buttonhole stitches |
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Term
Describe the placement of horizontal buttonholes |
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Definition
They are placed to extend 1/8" in beyond the button placement line which is the center fold line |
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Term
Describe the placement of vertical buttonholes |
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Definition
Placed directly on the button placement line and the top of the buttonhole 1/8" above the mark for a center button |
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Term
How is a horizontal buttonhole placement established? |
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Definition
Place pin at end nearest the finished garment edge |
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Term
How is a vertical buttonhole placement established? |
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Definition
Place below the top of the buttonhole opening. Carefully life buttonhole over pin and re-fasten the pin securely at proper location |
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Term
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Definition
A button that has a little "neck" or shank with a hole in it |
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Term
How do you make a button shank with thread? |
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Definition
Take a few stitches where the button is placed, place button, and bring thread through hole and fabric. |
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Term
If you sew on buttons by machine, how do you establish a button shank? |
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Definition
Sew over the top of the "spacer" when button is sewn on, remove spacer, and wrap the threads under the button around the threads used to sew on the button |
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Term
What are the three parts of a rolled collar? |
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Definition
The stand, roll line, and fall |
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Term
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Definition
The part that holds the collar up |
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Term
What is the roll line of a collar? |
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Definition
The part where the collar folds |
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Term
What is the fall of a collar? |
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Definition
The upper part of the collar that shows. |
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Term
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Definition
Lengthwise grain & strongest grain; arrows on pattern should be placed on this grain unless otherwise instructed; selvage runs parallel to lengthwise grain |
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Term
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Definition
Crosswise grain, perpendicular to selvage, has slight stretch, and good to go around body |
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Term
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Definition
Angle across warp and weft; true bias is 45 degrees (most stretch) |
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Term
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Definition
Direction of yarns in fabric; what direction the arrows are on pattern indicates placing along this |
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Term
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Definition
Look at suggested fabrics and look at picture- is it hanging softly or stiffly away from the body? |
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Term
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Definition
Pre-shrink by washing if garment is to be washed and fold fabric with selvages on top of each other |
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Term
Characteristics of the right side of the fabric |
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Definition
Greater softness, deeper color, smoother, and selvage is smoother |
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Term
When laying out a pattern... |
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Definition
cut paper patter, locate and pin grainline markings, and pin around pieces; pieces must go in same direction if using napped fabric |
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Term
What are the small arrows on patterns? |
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Definition
Indicate direction of stitching |
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Term
What are the horizontal double lines on a pattern? |
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Definition
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Term
What symbol indicates the pattern piece needs to be placed on the fold? |
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Definition
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Term
How are center front and center back indicated on a pattern? |
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Definition
A seam line, solid line, or fold line |
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Term
What do triangles/diamonds indicate on a pattern? |
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
Firm round for pressing and shaping curved seams, darts, collars, and lapels |
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Term
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Definition
Long narrow roll for pressing seams |
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Term
Clapper or pounding block |
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Definition
Wooden board to pound edges and seams flat on woolens and heavy fabrics and leather |
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Term
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Definition
set stitches, press seams before intersecting, use plenty of pressure and steam, and interfacing is pressed not ironed |
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Term
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Definition
set stitches, press seams before intersecting, use plenty of pressure and steam, and interfacing is pressed not ironed |
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Term
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Definition
Long narrow roll for pressing seams |
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Term
Clapper or pounding block |
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Definition
Wooden board to pound edges and seams flat on woolens and heavy fabrics and leather |
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Term
Where is staystitching done? |
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Definition
on off-grain edges to prevent stretching like in shoulder seams, body curves, necklines, and armholes; sewn 1/8" from seam line |
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Term
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Definition
eliminates bulk; longest cut side is worn on outside of garment |
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Term
Interfacing requirements (4) |
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Definition
time, temperature, moisture and pressure |
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Term
Purpose of interfacing (3) |
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Definition
to add stiffness, body, and firmness to garment edges and pieces |
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Term
Types of interfacing and interfacing insertion |
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Definition
woven, nonwoven, knit, and weft knit; sew-in and fusible |
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Term
What to look for in thread |
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Definition
slightly darker than main background of fabric, polyester, and Gutermann brand |
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Term
Sewing machine needle sizes |
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Definition
9 & 10 for finer fabrics, 12 & 14 for cotton and medium fabrics, and 16 & 18 for denim |
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Term
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Definition
5/8" on patterns and raw edges match up except when unlike curves come together |
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Term
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Definition
serger, zig zag, turn and stitched, and stitch and pink |
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Term
Specialty seams and descriptions |
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Definition
French: self-enclosed, good for sheer fabrics & unlined jackets Flat felled: self enclosed, good for sports clothing and children's wear Fla |
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Term
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Definition
cutout, mark, staystitch, darts, center back seam, zipper, side seams, waistband, h em, and hook and eye |
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Term
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Definition
cutout, mark, interfacing, staystitch, darts, shoulder seams, collar, ease stitching on sleeves, continuos lap, attach sleeves, side seams, cuffs, hem, and buttons |
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Term
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Definition
torso and upper body wider than hips; weight around waist |
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Term
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Definition
torso and upper body wider than hips; weight around waist |
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Term
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Definition
Torso and upper body smaller than hips, waist definition |
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Term
Inverted triangle body type |
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Definition
Torso and upper body wider than hips; little waist definition |
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Term
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Definition
Torso and upper body are the same width as hips; little waist definition |
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Term
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Definition
Torso and hips are same width; waist definition |
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Term
Example of functional design |
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Definition
Side hip pockets to store items |
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Term
Examples of structural design |
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Definition
Construction lines, garment edges, creases, folds, pleats, darts, etc. |
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Term
Examples of decorative design |
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Definition
Construction details, fabric patterns and colors, trims, non-functional details |
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