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Chapter 18 Chemical Hair Texture
Permanent Waving and Relaxers
30
Cosmetology
Professional
07/27/2010

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Term
Cuticle
Definition
tough exterior layer of the hair, surrounds inner layer and protects hair against damage
Term
cortex
Definition
middle layer of the hair, located directly beneath the cuticle layer. responsible for the strenghth and elasticity of hair
Term
Medulla
Definition
Inermost layer of hair, often called "the pith"or core of hair
Term
Peptide bonds or end bonds
Definition
chemical bonds that link amino acids together
Term
Disulfied bonds
Definition
only broken by chemicals, strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in 2 adjacent protein chains are joined together
Term
Salt bonds
Definition
weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges
Term
hydrogen bonds
Definition
weak physical side bonds that are the result of the attraction between opposite electrical charges, easily broken by water or heat reforms as the hair dries or cools
Term
5 most important factors to consider in a hair analysis
Definition
texture, density, porosity,elasticity, growth direction
Term
texture
Definition
diameter of a single strand (coarse,medium, fine)
Term
density
Definition
# of hair per square inch
Term
porosity
Definition
ability of hair to absorb moisture
Term
elasticity
Definition
the ability of the hair to stretch without breaking and return to its original shape
Term
growth direction
Definition
how the hair naturally lays (foward, circular etc)
Term
Concave rods
Definition
have a small diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends
Term
Straight rods
Definition
are equal in diameter along the entire lenghth, produces a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand
Term
End papers or wraps
Definition
absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods
Term
double flat wrap
Definition
uses two end papers, one placed under and one over the strand of the hair being wrapped
Term
single flat wrap
Definition
uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand being wrapped
Term
bookend wrap
Definition
uses one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like a envelope
Term
base section
Definition
panels of hair divided into subsections
Term
base placement
Definition
the position of the rod in relation to its base section, is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped
Term
on-base placement
Definition
hair is wrapped at 45 degrees beyond perpendicular to its base section
Term
half-off base placement
Definition
wrapping the hair at a 90 degree angle or straight out from the center of the section
Term
Off -base placement
Definition
wrapping the hair at a 45 degree below the center of the base section
Term
spiral perm wrap
Definition
hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod
Term
Thioglycolic acid
Definition
a colorless liquid with a strong unpleasant odor, the most common reducing agent
Term
ammonium thioglycolate (atg)
Definition
the addition of ammonia to thioglycolate acid
Term
cold waves
Definition
alkaline waves that process at room temperature without the addition of heat
Term
Glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)
Definition
an acid with a low Ph
Term
acid -balanced waves
Definition
avid waves that have a Ph between 7.8 and 8.2
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